Hippeastrum

Family. Amaryllidaceae.

Homeland. Originates from South America.

Description. There are currently about 100 species of hippeastrum and a large number of hybrids. It is a bulbous perennial plant with 1-2 powerful peduncles 20-45 cm high and wide light green strap-shaped leaves that appear during or after flowering.

At the top of each peduncle there are from 1 to 5 buds.

Funnel-shaped flowers up to 15-18 cm in diameter with protruding stamens usually appear in winter or spring (6-10 weeks after planting the bulb), red, orange, pink, white, sometimes yellow, with stripes or strokes on the petals.

Some varieties, especially white ones, can emit a delicate aroma.

The flowering period is long, 2-3 weeks, after which a second peduncle may appear from the bulb.

The bulbs are large - often more than 10 cm in diameter.

Height. Leaves can reach a length of 30 - 50 cm. Flower stalks can grow up to 60 cm in height. The final size will depend on growing conditions and varietal characteristics.

Care at home

When it blooms 

Hippeastrums grown under cultural conditions can bloom at any time, but most often flowering occurs in February - March or late summer - early autumn.

Since flowering will depend on the conditions of maintenance, the bulbs can be used for forcing - buds will form for any holiday. Of course, not all bulbs are suitable for forcing, but only adult ones - strong and healthy.

Place the pot in a brightly lit place and water moderately until the flower stalk appears, then increase the frequency of watering.

Flowering is guaranteed to occur 6-8 weeks after planting at a temperature of 10-15 ° C.

Each bud retains its attractiveness for 10 days, and then fades.

Experienced gardeners can have representatives of this genus bloom even 2 times a year.

How to make it bloom

Sometimes, for flowering to occur, it is necessary to place the plant in new conditions, for example, before planting, the bulbs are placed in warm water at a temperature of about 45 degrees for 3-4 hours, and then planted in nutritious soil and a new pot.

The first buds will decorate such specimens in 2 weeks.

A cool, dry winter without additional nutrition will also contribute to the beginning of flowering. After the end of the dormant period, the pots are placed on a well-lit window and watered. Such bushes will bloom in 1 - 1.5 months.

Transplantation 

Transplantation can be carried out at the first signs of new growth. Flower stalks are laid in the bulb every 4 leaves and can appear simultaneously with the leaves.

Plants can be transplanted after flowering and the death of the above-ground part. Flowering specimens should not be transplanted.

Adult bushes grown at home are transplanted every 3-4 years in February.

The diameter of the pot should be 6-8 cm larger than the diameter of the bulb - in such conditions, flowering will be abundant; the distance from the bulb to the wall of the pot should be about 2 cm.

You can choose a fairly deep and heavy pot, since sometimes hippeastrums turn over under their own weight. Unglazed clay pots are well suited for growing, the walls of which easily allow moisture and air to pass through.

1. The flower is carefully transferred to a new container, trying not to destroy the lump of earth.
2. Before planting, a drainage layer in the form of expanded clay, clay shards, brick fragments or river pebbles is poured onto the bottom of the pot.
3. The drainage layer is covered with a small layer of substrate on top and the bulb is placed on it along with a lump of earth.
4. The root system is sprinkled with fresh soil and the surface of the substrate is compacted with fingertips to remove air pockets.
5. Watering after planting in fresh soil is not carried out for 3 - 4 days and the first waterings should be scanty - the plant itself will try to get to the moisture with its roots. Excessive watering immediately after transplantation, but before active growth begins, will lead to the appearance of rot.
6. After planting, the bulb should protrude about 1/3 of its height from the ground.

Soil for growing 

Adapts well to most soils; the main requirement is good drainage.

To improve moisture permeability, add a small amount of coarse river sand, perlite or vermiculite to the soil. The substrate should easily allow moisture and air to pass through to the roots.

A growing mixture can be prepared from light leaf and turf soil, adding a small amount of humus for nutrition.

Additional nutrition is provided by adding a small amount of charcoal to the soil - its pieces will loosen the substrate and disinfect it.

How to care, how to trim

Care must be competent - certain conditions are required for flowering. Hippeastrum is a plant characterized by the presence of a clearly defined dormant period, which most often occurs in October and ends in January. At this time, the bush sheds its leaves.

The specific timing of the dormant period will vary depending on the characteristics of the variety and the conditions of maintenance, so you should focus on the behavior of the flower itself.

Remove flower stalks with wilted buds, and try not to cut the leaves until they dry out completely - after all, they continue to feed the bulb, which spent all its energy on flowering.

Peduncles are cut so that a segment 10 - 15 cm high remains at the base - it will still remain invisible in the foliage, and too much shortening of the flower stalk can lead to moisture getting inside the bulb and the onset of rotting.

Completely remove the remains of the stalk when it dries - just turn it with your fingers.

Trim only with a sharp, sterile tool.

If the hippeastrum does not go dormant within six months after flowering and the leaves remain green, bend the leaves - they will give the accumulated nutrients to the bulbs.

After a week, the bent leaf blades will begin to turn yellow, and after 3-4 weeks they can be removed, as they will dry out completely.

In winter, store the bulbs in a dry, cool place, checking them from time to time for rot.

Leave the bulbs in the pot, and place the pots in a dark, dry place, laying them on their sides. The temperature in the room where the bulbs are stored should be between 5 and 10 degrees Celsius.

After 1.5 months, check for the first signs of growth. If sprouts do not appear within the next couple of weeks, place the pot on the windowsill and begin to water it slowly.

For the winter, the bulbs can be dug out of the ground and stored in a cool (about 10 °C), dry place for 2 months. Such conditions will prevent new shoots from appearing too early.

You can stimulate the beginning of flowering with a slight drought - stop watering for 10-12 days.

In the warm season, take the hippeastrum outside, after flowering it can even be planted in open ground for a while - this will allow the bulb to stock up on nutrients.

Try to place the flower away from direct sunlight and in shelter from strong gusts of wind and rain. The plants are brought back into the house with the onset of cool nights in September.

Proper care is guaranteed to allow you to enjoy beautiful flowering year after year.

Large, long leaves should be wiped with a damp sponge from time to time to clean and remove dust.

Tall varieties will need support, as the flower stalk may break under the weight of the buds.

Diseases and pests 

• Rotting of the bulbs is promoted by over-watering, especially in winter, and excessively high air humidity in the room.
• Moisture on the bulb and leaf blades, especially at their base, can lead to the development of rot. If there are signs of rot, the bulbs are immediately removed from the soil and all diseased areas are cut off to healthy tissue with a sterile knife. The cut areas are treated with a fungicide and the bulb is left in the fresh air for several hours to dry. The wound surface can also be sprinkled with crushed coal. Such specimens should be planted only in fresh substrate, since pathogens may have survived in the old soil. The planting depth is made as small as possible, immersing only the base of the bulb in the substrate. Watering after transplantation is resumed only after 6 - 7 days.
• Hippeastrum does not bloom in low light conditions or when there is a lack of nutrients.
• Buds will not form if there is no proper rest period.
• Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight on leaves in spring and summer can lead to sunburn.
• Fungal diseases such as powdery mildew and downy mildew occur in cool, damp conditions and when there is insufficient air circulation, causing the leaves to become covered in a white, fluffy coating.
• Bulbs can suffer from red burn - when replanting, carefully tear off the affected scales to healthy tissue and treat the bulbs with a fungicide.
• Planting in a pot that is too spacious will promote the development of green mass to the detriment of flowering - hippeastrum blooms more readily in slightly cramped conditions.
• Excess substrate not utilized by the roots will accumulate excess moisture and the bulb may rot.
• The tips of the leaves become brownish-brown when there is insufficient content of an element such as potassium in the soil.
• The tips of the leaves may dry out and turn brown if there is insufficient air humidity.

Infestations of aphids, mealybugs, thrips, scale insects and spider mites are possible. 

Reproduction

Growing hippeastrums at home does not cause any difficulties even for novice gardeners.

The flower most often and most easily reproduces with the help of daughter bulbs - babies formed around the mother.

The bulbs are separated during transplantation when they reach a diameter of 2.5 - 4 cm and have their own root system, which allows them to feed separately from the mother.

If as a result of division at least a small wound surface is formed, then the bulbs are treated with fungicidal preparations, and the cut site is sprinkled with crushed charcoal and slightly dried in the air.

At first - for 1-3 years - the bushes develop continuously and may not go into a state of rest - they should not be specially encouraged to do this.

Hippeastrum reproduces well by seeds. Fresh planting material has a very high germination rate, which under optimal conditions can reach 100 percent.

Germination will also depend on the variety - light-colored varieties have low germination. Plants with white flowers have the lowest germination.

Dried seeds already reduce germination to 30 percent.

For propagation, you can use seeds from your own collection, but in this case, the flowers may not inherit all the varietal attractiveness of the parent specimens.

To form seeds, flowers are pollinated with a dry and clean brush, transferring pollen from one bud to another.

As a result of such manipulations, fruits are formed - three-valved, rounded green seed pods with large black seeds.

The capsules are separated from the plant when they are fully ripe - this process takes about 2 months. Thin, slightly dry walls and cracks that appear on its surface will indicate that the seed pod is ripe.

Sowing of seeds is carried out in the spring or at any other time of the year in the presence of artificial lighting.

1. For sowing, use a container with sufficiently large drainage holes or place the seeds directly in separate small cups.
2. When planting in a container, maintain a distance between seeds of 3 - 4 cm.
3. The seeds are sprinkled on top with a layer of substrate about 1 cm thick. Planting them too deep will lead to rotting.
4. Moistening of crops is carried out using a sprayer with water at room temperature or slightly higher. 
5. To create a greenhouse effect that will promote rapid germination, the container with seedlings is covered on top with a transparent plastic cap or glass.
6. The seedlings are placed in a warm place (with a temperature of 19 - 23 ° C) and inaccessible to direct sunlight.
7. Ventilate the seedlings every day by lifting the lid and removing any condensation that forms.
8. With the appearance of the first shoots, the ventilation time is increased and soon the shelter is removed altogether.

As they grow, you can add soil to the seedlings if necessary.

Picking is carried out when 2-3 true leaves appear.

Top dressing with a weak solution of mineral fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is carried out 10 days after picking. The bushes are transplanted to a permanent place of residence for the second time when 4-6 true leaves appear on each.

Young specimens are grown without a dormant period for 3-4 years, after which you can expect the first buds to appear.

This method of propagation, although it takes a lot of time, allows you to observe the development of the plant from the very beginning.

Adult and large bulbs can be divided into several parts after the leaves die off, since at this time it contains the largest supply of nutrients.

• The bulb in the upper part is freed from the soil, leaving only the root system in the substrate. The plant should not be removed from the ground!
• Remove the outer brown skin from the bulb and completely remove the leaves with a sharp, sterile knife, along with the top of the bulb.
• Using a sharp knife, make cuts in the upper part so that the bulb is divided into 4 parts - cloves. Depending on the diameter and condition of the bulbs, there can be from 2 to 8 such cloves.
• To prevent the segments from closing and overgrown again, knitting needles or wooden skewers are inserted into the cracks that appear, which must first be sterilized. 

The bulb continues to be cared for as an ordinary plant, with the only difference that watering at first should be very moderate, and the first fertilizing is carried out from the moment the leaves appear in each part.

The next season, such bulbs are removed from the substrate and completely divided, planted in separate small pots.

The bulbs can be immediately divided into 4 parts by cutting them off completely, treating the cut areas with charcoal and planting the parts in separate containers, but in this case the likelihood of rot will be high.

The first buds of such specimens appear after 1-3 years.

With any method of propagation, it is worth remembering that too early flowering should not be allowed - the bulbs do not yet have sufficient strength and accumulated nutrients to form buds, and the flowers may die.

If the diameter of the bulb is less than 1.5 - 2 cm, then flowering should not be allowed, and the flower stalks that appear should be removed.

Watering

As the bulbs begin to grow, they are watered little by little, but not too much. At this time, the plant still consumes a small amount of moisture and may rot if there is too much.

After the appearance of new healthy shoots about 7-10 cm high, water abundantly until the soil is completely wet, but let the soil dry out between waterings to a depth of 2-3 cm.

During the flowering period, maintain uniform humidity, preventing stagnation of moisture in the pan - be sure to drain excess water after watering.

Reduce the frequency of watering in late summer and almost stop in mid-autumn, when the leaves begin to turn yellow. It is worth resuming regular watering with the first signs of new growth.

For watering, use well-settled tap water or softened filtered or bottled water at room temperature.

Watering with warm water at a temperature of 40-45 degrees stimulates the beginning of flowering.

Watering is carried out along the edge of the pot, trying not to get on the leaves and the bulb.

In the warm season, you can immerse the pot for some time in a large container of water and let the moisture drain - this way the substrate in the pot will be better filled with moisture. Hippeastrum also responds well to bottom watering, which is carried out directly from the tray.

Since the bulbs already contain a certain amount of moisture, it is better to under-water this flower than to over-water it.

Temperature

Warm conditions stimulate active growth and accelerate the appearance of buds - for example, at temperatures above 20 °C, the flower stalk develops faster. Excess heat during the flowering period significantly reduces the lifespan of flowers.

When leaves appear, the temperature can fluctuate from 18 to 25 °C. It is better not to expose flowering specimens to temperatures above 17 °C.

In winter, the temperature should be around 5 - 10 °C - plants should spend about 10 weeks in such a dormant state.

A cool winter allows you to rest and gain strength for subsequent flowering.

When the first signs of new growth appear, the pot is brought to a warm place and gradually watered, preparing for flowering.

Feeding

Every two weeks, hippeastrum is fed with regular mineral fertilizer until mid-summer. They begin to apply fertilizer when the height of the peduncle reaches 10 - 15 cm.

The first nutrient solutions must contain sufficient nitrogen. To initiate flowering, fertilizers with a high phosphorus content are applied. Then use a potassium -rich fertilizer until mid-autumn to keep the bulbs healthy.

It is advisable to apply fertilizers in half the dose recommended on the package, since getting too concentrated a solution on the roots can cause a chemical burn.

For the same reason, add a nutrient solution only after abundant watering.

After flowering, fertilizing does not stop - they continue to fertilize the plants until the ground part dies.

During the dormant period, all feeding is stopped and resumed only with the appearance of new shoots in the next season.

You should not feed sick or newly planted bushes. Remember that if there is a lack of nutrients, the bulb will take them from the leaves and the buds will not form.

Lighting

Shoots and leaves love bright light and even direct sunlight during the growth period.

In spring and summer, it is better to shade with a light tulle curtain; the bush can take sun baths in the morning and evening hours. In autumn and winter, you can safely place the pot on the most illuminated windowsill - the sun's activity during this period of time is minimal and it often remains behind the clouds.

Lack of light will affect flowering - it will be scanty or will not occur at all. During the dormant period, lighting is not of great importance, since the above-ground green part dies off.

The most successful windows for growing hippeastrum are those facing the southeast or southwest. When placed on the south side, a little shading is required or the pot is placed in the back of the room.

Every week, the container is turned a quarter of a turn around its axis so that the flower develops strong and symmetrical and does not lean towards the light source.

Hippeastrum does not like sudden changes in lighting conditions, so accustom it to any changes gradually.

Spraying 

Representatives of the genus tolerate rather dry air indoors; keep the pot away from heating devices, as well as doors and windows where drafts are possible.

The flower likes periodic ventilation and good air circulation.

You cannot spray the hippeastrum, since moisture getting on the buds can dramatically reduce their attractiveness due to the appearance of brown spots, and will also contribute to the occurrence of rot of the bulbs.

Purpose

Hippeastrum is suitable for forcing: buds form 8-10 weeks after planting the bulb.

Bulbs used for forcing the following season should have a natural growth cycle.

Cut flowers do not lose their attractive appearance for a long time in a vase with water.

Note

This flowering perennial can live indoors for a very long time - each bulb can reach the age of 12-15 years.

From about 8 years of age, the bulbs are considered old and produce fewer and fewer babies.

All parts of the plant are poisonous and contain toxins - keep it away from children and pets. Use protective gloves when in contact. After any work with the flower, wash your hands thoroughly with soap.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis - differences

• Hippeastrums can be larger than amaryllis - they reach a height of 80 - 100 cm, they bloom more readily and more often indoors.
• Amaryllis can bear up to 12 flowers on each peduncle, while hippeastrum can have up to 6 flowers on peduncles.
• The diameter of the flowers is larger in hippeastrum, and amaryllis often blooms even before the leaves appear.
• Amaryllis bulbs have a smooth surface, whereas those of hippeastrum are covered with scales.
• Amaryllis are much more willing to form small daughter bulbs. 
• The shape of the bulbs is also different - in amaryllis it is elongated in height and resembles a pear, while in hippeastrum the bulb is rather round or flattened.
• Peduncles in hippeastrum appear after the formation of several leaves, and in amaryllis the flower arrow appears first.
• The flowering period of amaryllis occurs in the fall, while hippeastrum is distinguished by flowering that occurs in late winter or early spring.
• The peduncles of hippeastrums are hollow, while those of amaryllis are completely filled.
• Blooming amaryllis fill the house with a pleasant aroma, while hippeastrum flowers are odorless.
• Hippeastrum often blooms repeatedly, while amaryllis blooms only once a year.
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Varieties:

Hippeastrum Nymph

The Nymph series contains double plants of extraordinary beauty with very large, double flowers with a large number of white, pink or red petals. The diameter of the flowers of this variety reaches 25 cm. The height of the plant does not exceed 50 cm. Each bulb can form 4 - 6 peduncles - depending on the diameter, and each peduncle can bear up to 6 flowers. Green, belt-shaped leaves often appear after flowering. Flowers are often used as cut flowers - for example, in bouquets. 

Hippeastrum Sonatini

Large plants with simple, non-double flowers on tall leafless peduncles. The color of the buds varies from white to greenish, yellow, pink or red - the line often contains varieties with flowers of 2 or more shades. The flowers are small in diameter - often do not exceed 10 cm. The leaves are relatively short, green, and may also appear after flowering.

Separately worth noting in this group Hippeastrum Alaska - low plants (up to 50 cm in height) with small bulbs up to 5 cm in diameter. The variety is very frost-resistant - it tolerates frosts down to -10° C, and is distinguished by abundant flowering. 

Hippeastrum Exotica

Beautiful plants with large and very delicate orange-pink simple flowers. A relatively large species - during the flowering period, the height of the plants can reach 60 cm, the bulbs reach a diameter of 30 cm and can bear 2 - 3 peduncles at once. 

Hippeastrum Alfresco

Hybrid large-flowered hippeastrum with delicate white double flowers with a greenish core. Each peduncle bears at the top a whole bouquet of 4 - 5 large, double flowers. The leaves are green, linear, often gracefully arched, and often form during the flowering period. The variety is distinguished by its relatively modest size, the plants remain compact - ranging from 30 to 45 cm, the diameter of the bulb is 20 - 22 cm. The variety was bred specifically for potted culture. 

Hippeastrum papilio

A striped variety of hippeastrum that is gaining popularity, which, unfortunately, is disappearing in its natural habitat (for example, until the 90s it was considered extinct). It got its name because of the flower shape characteristic only of this species - its upper petals are wide and large, have a large number of dark stripes of burgundy or purple color on a light green or yellowish background, reminiscent of butterfly wings, and the lower ones are narrow and often colored more bright hues. Each bulb of this species can form 2 - 3 peduncles, on top of which there are from 2 to 5 flowers. The plants are particularly frost-resistant; in nature they behave like evergreen epiphytes. 

Hippeastrum Grand Diva

Hybrid hippeastrum with majestic large flowers of dark pink, red or burgundy. The bulbs can reach a diameter of 35 cm and each can produce 2 - 3 peduncles with 4 - 5 very large flowers at the top. The variety is tall and can reach 75 cm in height.