Catharanthus

Family. Apocynaceae.

Origin. The plant's homeland is the island of Madagascar.

Description. Catharanthus is a small genus that includes 8 species of annual and perennial evergreen subshrubs or herbaceous plants up to 1 m high with erect brown stems.

The leaves are oblong - oval, 2.5 - 9 cm long and 1 - 4 cm wide, glossy green, arranged oppositely on short petioles.

The flowers are white, pink, red, lilac, often with a darker center, with a long thin tube up to 3 cm long and five rounded petals, reminiscent of phlox, solitary or collected in small inflorescences - umbrellas of 2 - 3, appearing in the upper part of the stems.

In nature, after flowering, it often forms fruits with several seeds.

Height. Dwarf, low-growing varieties grow up to 15 - 25 cm, some species up to 60 cm.

In the natural environment, there are specimens up to 1.5 m high. The flower develops quickly.

Growing in open ground

The bush can be planted in the garden and grown as an attractive and abundantly flowering annual plant in a flower bed. Unfortunately, the catharanthus does not tolerate frost, and in the fall you will either have to take it home or simply throw it away.

The seeds are sown directly into open ground in May, when the threat of recurrent frosts has passed.

For planting, choose a place protected from strong gusts of wind and well lit, but shaded during the day.

The soil for planting is carefully dug up or simply loosened, weeds are removed.

The planting material is placed in small furrows 1 - 1.5 cm deep. The distance between the seeds should be about 4 cm.

When the young bushes grow up, they are planted in permanent habitats.

Catharanthus can also be grown using seedlings - for this, the seeds are sown very early in the spring at home.

The seedlings are hardened by taking them outside in mid-May for several hours during the day and gradually increasing the time spent outdoors.

When planting adult bushes, keep a distance of 30–70 cm between them.

Home care

Reproduction, growing from seeds

Catharanthus reproduces well by cuttings.

1. Vegetative propagation is carried out using stem cuttings 8 - 10 cm long, taken in the spring.
2. Remove the leaves from the lower ends of the stems and soak the cuttings in a solution of growth hormones, then place them in a damp mixture of peat and sand.
3. Cover pots of seedlings with a clear plastic cover or glass to maintain humidity.
4. Place the plants in a warm place with a temperature of about 22°C, away from direct sunlight.
5. The successful completion of the rooting process will be indicated by the appearance of new growth - young branches and leaves, at which time the shelter can already be completely removed. 

Rooting occurs successfully even in a simple glass of water, but after planting in the ground, such specimens slow down their growth a little - this way their root system adapts to new living conditions.

It makes no sense to use adult stems for vegetative propagation - they can stand in water for a long time without visible signs of rooting, so young apical cuttings are taken for propagation.

When growing indoors, you can collect your own seeds.

Flowering ends in mid-spring, and the seeds ripen for about six months.

Unfortunately, bushes obtained from seeds may not inherit all the attractive qualities of the mother plants.

Fresh seeds have the highest germination rate.

1. Before sowing, the seeds are pre-soaked in warm water with the addition of a small amount of growth hormones.
2. Sowing is carried out in a well-moistened, nutritious substrate, covering with a layer of earth about 1 cm thick.
3. The seedlings are placed in a warm place, shaded from direct sunlight and covered with a transparent plastic cap, glass or a simple plastic bag to maintain uniform humidity.
4. Periodically, instead of watering, the soil is moistened or sprayed with a fine spray.
5. The first shoots can be seen within 7 - 14 days. At this time, containers with crops are placed in a brightly lit place without direct sun with a temperature of about 23 - 25 ° C.
6. The shelter is removed daily, gradually increasing the ventilation time and removing any condensation from it.

The seedlings develop slowly and often give the impression that they are just standing still.

The first feeding is done with a weak solution of flower fertilizer when the seedlings are about 2 weeks old.

The first picking is done when 4 true leaves appear - the flowers are planted in separate cups. The procedure is carried out very carefully, since the delicate and young root system is very easy to damage, and it is already quite deep.

Since growth accelerates over time, several pickings may be required to increase the size of the pots.

In specimens obtained from seeds, the first buds appear 60-70 days after germination.

Adult bushes can be divided into 2-3 parts during transplantation, thereby rejuvenating them.

1. The rhizomes are cut with a sharp sterile instrument so that each section has its own root system and a well-developed above-ground part.
2. The wound surface is treated with finely ground charcoal to disinfect and dry at the same time.
3. Plants are planted in separate, fairly spacious containers and placed in shade.

Temperature

This heat-loving species can be kept at room temperature all year round; the ideal temperature range is from 18 to 29 ° C.

In winter, for abundant flowering, the catharanthus requires cool conditions at a temperature of 10 - 15 ° C.

If the plant is not given a rest period during the winter months, then when kept at normal room temperature, it will continue to grow and develop, and in conditions of insufficient light, the emerging stems will be thin and loose.

Do not expose the flower to temperatures below 10 ° C.

Soil 

Nutritious, well-drained soil with sufficient organic matter in the form of leaf humus and peat.

The substrate should allow air and moisture to pass freely to the roots.

The mixture can be prepared from turf and leaf soil - they have a light porous structure.

To improve drainage, add coarse river sand or perlite.

Wood ash or a small amount of charcoal will make the substrate loose and provide the plants with additional nutrition.

The substrate should have a neutral or slightly acidic pH.

When and how to replant 

Catharanthus is a perennial, but it is often thrown away after flowering, since only young specimens bloom profusely. If you decide to leave the plant in the house, replant it in the spring.

The bush quickly grows and fills the pot, so the transplant is carried out annually, offering it a fairly spacious container.

In addition, the flower has a powerful root system, which can go into the soil to a depth of 25 - 35 cm, so the pot should be spacious.

The need for re-transplantation can be judged by the appearance of roots in the drainage holes of the pot.

The planting container should have large drainage holes and be 5-6 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. If you plant the flower in a small pot, it may need another transplant during the year.

1. Before planting, a sufficiently large drainage layer in the form of broken bricks, clay shards or expanded clay is placed on the bottom of the pot. Instead of transplanting, you can use gentle transshipment - during its implementation, the earth lump is not destroyed, which means the root system is not damaged.
2. When transshipping, the bush is simply placed in the center of the new pot together with the lump of earth and sprinkled around the perimeter with fresh substrate, slightly compacting it with your fingers.
3. If there are signs of any diseases, then during transplantation, the root system is carefully disassembled and inspected. If necessary, remove all rotten and damaged roots with sharp pruning shears.

After transplanting, the pot is placed in a shaded place from direct sunlight for about a week, and the first feeding is carried out no earlier than 2 - 3 weeks after transplanting.

When does bloom? 

Flowers appear in mid-spring. The flowering period of catharanthus is very long - lasts throughout the summer  until mid-autumn.

When grown indoors in the summer months, flowering will simply be the most abundant, but it will not stop at any other time of the year with proper care.

Care, how to trim 

Representatives of the genus are easy to grow indoors and easy to care for. Some varieties lose their attractiveness with age and bloom less abundantly.

The stems are pinched, forming lateral shoots, due to which the bush becomes dense.

After wintering, too long and weak stems are safely shortened by about a third of the height.

Withering buds are promptly removed to stimulate the appearance of new flowers.

During sanitary pruning, shoots growing inward and thickening the crown are removed, and old and diseased branches are trimmed to maintain a neat and attractive appearance.

Take the flower pots outside in the warm months. For outdoor cultivation, choose a place shaded from direct sunlight and protected from strong wind and rain.

When the night temperature drops to 12-13 °C in August, the plant should be returned indoors.

Do not place this bush near heating systems in the winter months.

Diseases and pests

• Leaves wither and dry out due to lack of moisture.
• The tips of the leaf plates dry out when there is insufficient air humidity.
• Lack of flowering may be due to the age of the plant or a lack of nutrients in the soil, moisture and sunlight.
• Lack of moisture in the air or soil can cause the buds to drop.
• Stem rot occurs when there is insufficient air movement, high humidity and constant contact of stems with water.
• Leaf spot.
• Catharanthus reacts negatively to soil changes - try growing it in the same type of substrate.
• The bush does not grow in the winter months when kept cool - it is dormant.
• The plant will not bloom if grown in too close of conditions, in a nutrient-poor substrate, or in insufficient light. 
• If the root system is too constrained by the pot, the bush sheds its buds and its lower leaves turn yellow.
• The tips of the leaves become dry and brittle when there is insufficient air humidity.
• Damage to the root system during transplantation results in a lack of flowering.
• Rust of leaf plates appears when kept in a waterlogged substrate and high air humidity.
• Direct sunlight on the leaves during the daytime results in wilting, yellowing and falling of the leaves.
• Flowering will be less abundant if there is not enough light or the temperature is too low.
• Young leaves fall off when the soil dries out.
• Leaves curl when not watered enough. 
• If the lower leaves start to turn yellow and the flowers fall off, the pot may have become too small.

If kept in a too dry atmosphere, the plant may be attacked by spider mites. The green leaves of catharanthus are also to the taste of scale insects and aphids.

Fertilizer

With the beginning of new growth, from spring to autumn, catharanthus is fed with ordinary liquid fertilizers for flowering plants with a high content of phosphorus and potassium 2 times a month in half the concentration.

The solution is made according to the recommendations indicated on the package or at half strength.

In the winter months, feeding is stopped and resumed only in the spring, with the first signs of new growth.

Fertilizer is applied only after abundant watering, in well-moistened soil.

The bushes respond positively to both mineral and organic fertilizers in the form of well-rotted cow or horse manure, a weak solution of chicken manure or vermicompost.

Watering 

It is advisable to keep the soil evenly moist at any time of the year. Reduce the frequency of watering in the winter months, especially if the flower is in a cool place.

In the autumn and winter months, a slight drying out of the top layer of soil 2-3 cm thick is possible. The rest of the time, the plant reacts negatively to drought.

Be sure to drain the excess water that appears in the tray after watering the catharanthus.

For watering, use only well-settled water at room temperature.

Lighting

Catharanthus requires 3-4 hours of direct sun per day in the morning and evening hours. In spring and summer, in the midday heat, shoots and leaves should be protected from direct sunlight.

Provide as much light as possible in autumn and winter.

Bushes that do not receive enough light stretch out and are reluctant to bloom.

The most optimal placement is the window sills of western and eastern windows. You can place the pot on the south side, moving it a little deeper into the room.

If there is a lack of natural light, you can successfully use artificial lighting with fluorescent lamps or phytolamps.

Spraying 

Moderate air humidity, not less than 50 percent, is suitable for growing.

Spray the leaves with soft water at room temperature or use a room humidifier. Spray only in the first half of the day, so that by evening there is not a drop of water left on the leaf blades.

It is not recommended to spray flowering specimens, as drops of water can spoil the attractive appearance of buds and flowers.

You can put the pot on a tray with wet pebbles or surround it with a layer of well-moistened sphagnum moss, or simply use a room humidifier.

A small decorative fountain placed next to the plant will also perfectly humidify the air.

If you place several bushes in a small space at once, the air will be humidified due to the water evaporating from the surface of their leaf blades.

The flower loves well-ventilated places with good air circulation, but without cold drafts.

Interesting facts

Catharanthus needs a warm place and lots of sunlight. It is used for landscaping balconies and loggias.

The plant has many useful properties and, among other things, is used in medicine as an antitumor and expectorant.

It is believed that the bush helps to normalize blood sugar levels, blood pressure and has wound-healing properties.

The decoction has an analgesic effect.

Unfortunately, with age, representatives of the genus will bloom less lushly, and the buds themselves will become smaller - replace old specimens over 3 years old with new seedlings obtained using cuttings.

Ampel varieties are grown in hanging pots - they will decorate a balcony or veranda.

Note

All parts of the plant are poisonous - work with it should be done with gloves, and after contact with the juice, wash your hands thoroughly with soap. With age, the lower part of the shoots loses leaves and becomes bare, this is a normal process.

Varieties:

Catharanthus ampelous or cascading

Large-flowered varieties with long, drooping shoots, specially bred for growing in hanging pots. The plant's stems hang over the edges of the pot, and the flowering is so profuse that the plant can completely cover the pot with its buds. When properly formed, this species produces a large flowering ball.  

Catharanthus Pacifica

A rapidly growing shrub that can add 35 cm in height over a season. It is often grown as an annual plant, but with proper care it can please the eye for several years. Flowering can occur as early as late spring; the plant produces beautiful pink, burgundy, white or red flowers with rounded petals.