Stephanotis

Family. Asclepiadaceae.

Origin. Madagascar Island, Malaysia, Peru.

Description. The genus "stephanotis" or Madagascar jasmine consists of 15 species of evergreen vines with shoots woody at the base.

The leaves are simple, dark green, leathery, elliptical, 5 - 10 cm long, slightly bent along the central vein, arranged oppositely.

The buds are white, very fragrant, with a long flower tube, funnel-shaped, with 5 pointed petals, reminiscent of fragrant tobacco flowers, collected in inflorescences - umbrellas, bearing up to 10 flowers. The aroma is pleasant, intensifies in the evening and night hours.

When pollinated, fairly large, slightly oblong fruits with seeds are formed.

Height. The bush develops very quickly and can add about 50 - 80 cm in height in one season. The stems reach a length of 3 m, but the height can be adjusted by pruning. In nature, there are specimens whose shoots exceed 6 m in length.

Care at home

Reproduction 

Propagated by stem cuttings about 10 cm long, in spring and summer. Each cutting should have 2-4 internodes. The lower leaves are removed, and the bases are sprinkled with root-forming powder.

The cuttings are immersed in a loose, nutritious and well-moistened substrate by 2-3 cm and placed at a slight angle to the soil surface. The seedlings are covered with glass to maintain uniform humidity and placed in a warm place without direct sunlight.

To form roots, the plants must be kept indoors at a temperature of about 27-30ºС.

The rooting of cuttings will be most successful when using a bottom heating system. From time to time, the cover is removed, young plants are aired and, if necessary, sprayed with water at room temperature from a spray bottle.

Root formation occurs within 1.5 - 2 months. The fact that the first roots have appeared underground is indicated by the young leaves that form on the cutting.

A month after the new growth appears, the seedlings can be planted in a slightly larger pot. To make the bushes look thicker, you can place 2-3 cuttings in each pot.

To form lateral shoots, specimens that have reached half a meter in height are cut by 1/3 of their length.

Seed propagation of stephanotis is also possible, but it rarely bears fruit. Young plants develop for a long time at home and require careful care throughout the entire period.

This method of propagation will be appreciated only by experienced and patient gardeners who will be curious to observe the entire development process from the very beginning. Fresh seeds are selected for sowing - they will have the highest germination rate.

Sowing is carried out in the spring, using a plastic container filled with a loose substrate consisting of a mixture of peat and sand.

Before planting, stephanotis seeds can be soaked in warm water with the addition of phytohormones. The seeds are laid out on the soil surface and covered with a layer of soil about 1 cm thick.

The crops are covered with glass or transparent plastic from above to create a greenhouse effect and maintain high air humidity. The seedlings are placed in a well-lit place, but without direct sunlight, with a temperature of 22 - 25 ° C.

The cover is removed periodically, the crops are ventilated and the soil surface is moistened with a spray bottle. Already 2 - 3 weeks after sowing, the first shoots will be visible - with their appearance, the cover is completely removed.

When each bush can boast of the appearance of 2 - 3 true leaf plates, a picking is carried out. When picking, the plants are planted in groups of 2 - 3 in small pots.

Two weeks after picking, the first feeding is done with a very weak solution of fertilizers with a high nitrogen content to form green mass.

When blooms

Stephanotis can bloom from May to October, but the most abundant flowering occurs in May and June. With proper care, the flowering period can extend for 10 months.

Flowering can occur in waves, and with a short break in the summer months, the vine can form buds again in early autumn.

Transplant 

Replanting is carried out annually, if necessary in the spring, before flowering. The need for replanting can be judged by the tips of the roots that appear in the drainage holes of the pot.

Young specimens are planted annually in fresh soil and a new pot, and adults are replanted every 2-3 years. When growing stephanotis, the size of the pots should be increased gradually - each time choosing a container 2-3 cm in diameter larger than the previous one. For containing large adult bushes, pots with a diameter of 18-20 cm are selected.

Planting in too spacious containers entails a lack of flowering - until the root system fills the entire space of the pot, buds will not form.

Excess soil in a large pot will retain water after watering, which will contribute to rotting of the root system. The bush takes a long time to recover from damage to the roots - use the transshipment method.

Transfer the flower to a new container along with the old lump of earth.

For growing, choose light plastic or clay pots, as the walls of such containers heat up minimally, and the roots will not suffer from overheating.

For large plants with large dimensions, the top layer of soil is replaced with fresh soil every year.

The growing pot should have large drainage holes. Before planting, a generous drainage layer in the form of expanded clay, river pebbles, foam balls or broken bricks is placed on the bottom of the pot. The height of the drainage layer can be up to 1/5 of the height of the pot.

When replanting, carefully inspect the root system and, if necessary, cut off all rotten and diseased areas with a sharp sterile pruner.

After replanting, such specimens are watered with a solution of a root formation stimulator, and the leaves are sprayed with growth hormone preparations. A small layer of substrate is poured onto the drainage and the root system is placed in the center of the pot. Immediately after replanting, a support for the shoots is installed.

Plants should be placed at the same depth as they were in the previous container. The bush is sprinkled with fresh soil and the surface of the substrate is compacted to remove air pockets.

After transplanting, the soil is watered with warm water and the pot is placed in a place shaded from direct sunlight for 7-10 days. 6-8 weeks after transplanting, begin to feed little by little.

Early feeding is not recommended, since unhealed wounds on the roots after transplanting can be damaged by the chemical solution; in addition, there will be enough nutrients in the fresh soil. Flowering bushes should not be replanted.

After purchase, replanting should be done after a couple of weeks - during this time the flower will get used to the new conditions.

How to care 

Stephanotis does not like sudden changes in living conditions, it should be accustomed to any changes gradually.

Long shoots are cut after flowering, maintaining a compact shape. Excessively long lateral stems are shortened by 1/3 of the length during pruning.

Pruning promotes the development of lateral branches that will bear new flower buds. Flowers will be located on the shoots of the current year, so pruning does not affect abundant flowering.

The cuttings obtained during pruning can be used for propagation. During sanitary pruning, all old and diseased shoots are removed. Inflorescences with wilting buds should be cut not only to maintain an attractive appearance, but also to stimulate the appearance of new flowers.

The stems should be provided with support for growth, for which you can use special plastic or metal circles around which you can twine long stems.

Young branches should be directed in the right direction, as with age they will become woody, covered with brownish bark and become less flexible. Do not move the bush to a new location during budding and flowering - it will drop the buds.

Stephanotis should not be taken outside even on the warmest summer days. When kept outdoors, plants will be exposed to daily temperature fluctuations, and this will negatively affect their well-being.

Cool, dry rest in winter will promote the formation of many flower buds. Do not place the flower near heating systems in the cold season and do not put it under the air conditioner in the summer months.

From time to time, wipe the fleshy leaves from dust with a damp sponge. In the autumn months, the shoots may lose some leaves - this is normal.

Soil

Loose and nutritious soil with a high content of organic matter in the form of peat, leaf humus, turf soil and humus. To improve drainage, use perlite or coarse sand.

The substrate should easily allow water to pass through and should allow the root system to breathe. The soil for growing stephanotis should have a neutral or slightly acidic pH of 5.5 to 6.5.

Watering 

Keep the substrate evenly moist but not waterlogged during the growing season. It is worth watering the flower abundantly, completely soaking the earthen lump with water. In spring and summer, between waterings, you can dry the top layer of substrate 2 - 3 cm thick.

Drain excess moisture from the tray a few minutes after watering.

If the plant is kept in a room with a temperature above 21 ° C, it should be periodically bathed in a shower with a water temperature of about 35 - 40 degrees Celsius. When carrying out water procedures, the soil in the pot should be covered with a plastic bag so that the water does not wash it away. 

After a shower, leave the Stephanotis in the bathroom for 20-30 minutes so that it can enjoy the humid atmosphere. For watering, use softened water at room temperature.

The water should be well settled for 24 hours so that the chlorine evaporates and the calcium salts settle. For watering, you can use rainwater and melt water, as well as filtered or bottled drinking water.

In the fall, the frequency of watering is reduced, and in winter the soil should dry out to half the depth between waterings. Resume regular watering in the spring, when the bushes show the first signs of new growth. About once a month, it will be useful to add a few drops of lemon juice or citric acid crystals to the water for watering.

Fertilizers 

They begin to apply fertilizers in the spring, with the beginning of growth. Feed the plants with water-soluble mineral fertilizers every 2 weeks until the onset of autumn. The solution is diluted to half the dose recommended on the package.

With the arrival of the autumn months, the development of the flower slows down and it is worth reducing the frequency of fertilizing and the content of nutrients in them - putting stephanotis into a dormant state. During the winter months, the plants are not fed at all.

Fertilizers are applied only after abundant watering, in moist soil. 

If a nutrient solution gets on the roots in a dry substrate, it can cause a chemical burn - apply fertilizer only to a damp substrate.

For top dressing, use nutrient solutions with a high content of potassium and phosphorus - they will promote abundant formation of buds. Representatives of the species respond well to the use of organic fertilizers, which can be humus, slurry or a weak solution of bird droppings. The best results in cultivation can be achieved by alternating organic and mineral fertilizers.

Diseases and pests 

The plant sheds its buds when changing its location. Flowering will not occur if there is insufficient light and a sharp change in temperature.

Shoots lose their lower leaves if the soil becomes too dry or waterlogged for a long time.

Stephanotis will slow down or even stop its development if it is kept in direct sunlight and not given nutrients.

Overdrying of the substrate and exposure to cold drafts leads to the buds falling off.

Leaf blades turn yellow if unsettled tap water is used for watering.

With insufficient watering, leaves and buds become lethargic.

A large amount of nitrogen in the substrate will force the bushes to abundantly grow green mass to the detriment of flowering.

Darkened and drooping flowers will indicate low air temperatures.

Root rot due to insufficient drainage and excessive watering, especially in the cold season.

Direct sunlight can cause burns in the form of brownish-yellow spots on the leaves.

Pale spots on the leaves indicate a lack of light.

Fungal diseases such as powdery mildew occur when kept in cool, damp conditions with insufficient air circulation.

When kept in an alkaline substrate, plants begin to suffer from chlorosis - the leaf blades turn yellow.

Spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, scale insects, fungus gnats or sciarids.

Light 

Representatives of the species are very photophilous and can tolerate shading only during hot daytime hours, the rest of the time the shoots and leaves happily bathe in the sun's rays. In the morning and evening the flower can take sun baths for 3-4 hours a day.

In spring and summer during the daytime the pots should be in partial shade - in the back of the room or behind a light curtain. In autumn and early winter, when the sun often remains behind the clouds and the weather is cloudy, the plant can be taken out to the most illuminated windowsill.

Throughout the year it can be kept on the eastern or western windows. When placed in the south, the pot is placed in the back of the room.

When caring for the bush, it is necessary to remember that its root system does not like overheating, so it is better to shade the pot during the daytime.

If there is a lack of natural light, it is worth using artificial light in the form of fluorescent or special phytolamps, which allow you to increase the duration of daylight. For flowering, it is important that the daylight hours are about 12 hours.

Temperature

During the growing season, the optimum temperature is 18 - 21 °C; the bush tolerates higher temperatures with increased air and soil humidity.

During the winter months, a rest period in a cool room with a temperature of 12 - 14 °C is necessary. If such a cool room is not available, then a regular warm room will do, but growing in warm conditions throughout the year can negatively affect flowering.

Do not expose staphanotis to temperatures below 10 ° C. The flower does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature conditions. Summer heat can shorten the flowering period - during this period, it is worth increasing the air humidity and watering the substrate more often.

Spraying 

To maintain a healthy appearance, plants require high air humidity - about 60% - 70% relative. Spray the leaves with water at room temperature or place the pot on a tray with wet pebbles.

When spraying, water should not fall on the flowers and buds - this will spoil their appearance. For spraying, use only well-settled water, since moisture from the tap can leave unsightly whitish stains on the dark glossy leaves of the flower.

Spraying is carried out in the first half of the day, so that in the dark, drops of water do not remain on the surface of the shoots and leaves.

You can install a room humidifier next to the stephanotis. To increase humidity, any container with water placed in close proximity to the flower is suitable - evaporating from it for a long time, the water will naturally increase the air humidity.

Placing several large specimens in a confined space also increases air humidity well - water evaporates from their leaf blades.

Plants will enjoy being in a well-ventilated area with plenty of air movement, without exposure to cold drafts. Move the pot to another room for ventilation during the winter months.

Purpose

Stephanotis is a profusely flowering ornamental species, for its development it is worth providing a spacious room with good lighting. Flowers can be used for cutting and for making bouquets, the plant is ideal for vertical landscaping of spacious and bright rooms. Inflorescences are often used in wedding bouquets.

Depending on the pruning method, it can be formed into a large flowering liana, a bush, or used as an ampelous plant, placing it in a hanging pot.

Note

This species is poisonous and should be kept away from children and pets. Skin sap may cause an allergic reaction - protect your hands with gloves when handling plants and wash them thoroughly after handling with plenty of running water.

Not all people can tolerate the intense aroma of the buds during flowering - it is better not to leave the bush in the bedroom overnight.

Varieties:

Stephanotis floribunda

A large evergreen vine with flexible, thin, green stems. It easily braids even fairly large supports. The leaves are oblong, oval, dark green, glossy, with veins highlighted in a lighter shade. The edges of the leaf plates are solid. The flowers are star-shaped, white, on long flower tubes, collected in small, few-flowered inflorescences; when grown at home, they can appear at any time of the year, but are more often formed in spring and summer. 

Variegata stephanotis is distinguished by the presence of white, yellowish or light green spots along the edges of the leaf blades.