Haworthia

Family. Asphodeloideae.

Origin: South Africa.

Description: Haworthias are low-growing evergreen succulent plants with an extremely diverse appearance.

Most species form leaf rosettes of sessile green, oblong-triangular, succulent leaves. The shades of the leaves contain all shades of green, bluish-silver with longitudinal and transverse stripes and spots. Some varieties have orange or red leaves with thorns at the ends.

During the flowering period, tall peduncles appear in the center of the rosette, at the tops of which small, inconspicuous white or pink buds are formed.

Some varieties can form short stems with age.

Height. Often does not exceed 5 - 30 cm in height, develops slowly.

The final size will depend on the variety, conditions of maintenance and age.

In nature, some species reach a height of 1 m, but it takes them several decades.

Care at home

Reproduction, growing from seeds 

The most common and simple method of propagation is daughter rosettes, which sometimes form around a large plant. Division is carried out in the spring, during transplantation.

1. Small rosettes are separated when they already have their own, well-developed root system.
2. The seedlings are placed in very small pots.
3. You can try to root even leaf rosettes that have not yet had time to form a root system - to do this, dry them for 1 - 2 days in the open air and lightly dig the base into very loose, moist soil.
4. Such rosettes should not be watered after planting. After some time, roots may appear at the base.

Vegetative propagation or cuttings allows you to obtain plants that completely copy the mother rosettes.

Vegetative propagation or cuttings allows you to get succulents that completely copy the mother rosettes.

Leaf cuttings root quite easily in a damp mixture of peat and sand in spring and summer.

The cuttings can be separated with a sharp pruner or simply torn off by hand.

On the mother bush, the wound surface formed as a result of such procedures must be treated with fungicidal preparations and sprinkled with charcoal powder.

1. The cut site of the cuttings is dried for several days before planting.
2. The bases of the cuttings are sprinkled with growth hormones mixed with charcoal powder.
3. The seedlings are immersed in a well-moistened substrate consisting half of peat and half of river sand or perlite, no more than 1 cm.
4. The container with the cuttings is placed in a warm, brightly lit place, but inaccessible to direct sunlight.
5. Water the cuttings very sparingly until roots appear to avoid rot.

Root formation will be indicated by the appearance of new growth in the form of young leaves. Such signs usually appear a month after planting.

Do not cover leaf cuttings with glass or plastic on top - this will lead to the development of rot.

Succulent seeds are sown in very porous and moist soil in the spring.

Unfortunately, seed germination leaves much to be desired - it remains at a high level only for six months after collection, and then sharply declines.

Small plants develop very slowly, so this method is suitable for very patient gardeners. Seedlings require very competent and daily care, and even in such conditions they easily rot and die.

1. For sowing, prepare transparent plastic containers with drainage holes and a lid.
2. A drainage layer 1 - 2 cm high is placed at the bottom of the container.
3. Fill the containers with nutritious and loose soil and sow the seeds into it.
4. The planted seeds are sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top and sprayed with water at room temperature. Sometimes the seeds are not even embedded in the substrate, but are simply pressed into the surface of the soil with your fingertips.
5. The container is covered on top with a transparent plastic cap or glass to maintain a uniformly high level of humidity.
6. Seedlings are placed in a warm place with a temperature of 22 - 26 degrees Celsius.
7. The location should be brightly lit, but not exposed to direct sunlight.
8. Seedlings may appear within a week, but some seeds may take up to 3 weeks to germinate.
9. With the appearance of the first sprouts, the shelter is immediately removed.
10. Diving into separate cups can be done about six months after the sprouts appear.

Haworthia obtained from seeds may not inherit all the varietal attractiveness of the parent specimens.

Some varieties reproduce by underground shoots called stolons.

Flowering time 

Succulents decorate themselves with buds mainly in the summer months.
Since the flowering of haworthia is not particularly attractive, so that the plants do not waste energy on the formation of buds, the flower stalks are often pinched immediately after they appear.
Some varieties are monocarpic, that is, after flowering, the mother rosette dies, leaving offspring in the form of daughter plants. The flower stalks of such bushes are located right in the center of the rosette.

Transplant 

Haworthia grows slowly and needs to be replanted approximately every 2-3 years, in the spring, into a larger pot.

Young specimens can be replanted every year, slightly increasing the size of the pot - by 2-3 cm more.

The root system is located superficially, so a shallow bowl is suitable for growing it.

The most preferable for growing are unglazed clay pots, the walls of which are able to pass moisture and air to the roots.

If there are no signs of rot or other diseases, you can use gentle transshipment instead of replanting. During this operation, the flower is transplanted into a new container along with a lump of earth, and the root system receives less damage.

If the succulent has signs of disease, then it is replanted with a complete replacement of the soil - the root system is carefully shaken off from the old soil and carefully examined.

If signs of rot are detected, the affected areas are cut off to healthy tissue with sharp sterile pruning shears, scissors or a knife. The cut areas are treated with fungicidal preparations.

1. The planting pot should have large drainage holes and be shallow. 
2. Before replanting, a generous drainage layer should be placed on the bottom in the form of clay shards, brick fragments or expanded clay, purchased in advance at a flower shop. The height of the drainage layer can reach 1/3 of the pot height.
3. When planting, observe the depth and place the root collar at the same height as in the previous pot - approximately at ground level. Too deep a planting can lead to rotting.
4. After planting, the soil around the bush is slightly compacted.
5. As a top layer, you can sprinkle the soil with expanded clay, small pebbles or river sand - this will add decorativeness and help quickly remove moisture from the root collar. This layer should be thin and not interfere with the breathing of the roots.

Transplanted specimens should not be watered for 5-7 days, and should not be left in direct sunlight for 7-10 days - this will only increase stress.

The first feeding is carried out only after 3-4 weeks, since the fresh soil already contains enough nutrients.

 

How to care 

Indoor haworthia is unpretentious and is afraid only of over-watering, however, there are certain rules of agricultural technology for this plant.

From time to time, old, withered leaves at the base of the rosette are removed using a sharp sterile instrument.

In the warm spring and summer months, the flower can be kept outside, sheltered from strong wind and rain, as well as in the shade from direct sunlight.

To get a strong and healthy rosette with an attractive appearance, it is necessary to send the succulent into a dormant period in November.

The duration of the dormant period can be about 4 months - the plant will emerge from it in March. In the absence of a cool dormant period in the winter months, the rosette will continue to develop, and since there is not enough light at this time, the new growths that appear will be weak and sick, and the bushes may lose their attractiveness.

Sometimes during the dormant period, the root system dies - such specimens are slightly deepened into a new substrate and watered very moderately - in this case, the roots can grow again.

To remove dust, the leaves can be wiped with a soft cloth.

Watering

This succulent has thick, juicy, fleshy leaves that store moisture in case of drought and therefore will rather tolerate good drying of the soil than its flooding.

During the growth period, haworthia consumes quite a lot of moisture and the soil is dried to a depth of 2-3 cm before each subsequent watering.

The plants should be watered abundantly until the substrate in the pot is completely moistened.

Excess moisture that appears in the tray after watering is removed after a few minutes.

In the winter months, the frequency of watering will depend on the temperature. At a temperature of about 10 ° C, the soil should be kept barely moist.

Slightly wrinkled leaves will indicate the need for watering.

Try to water so that moisture does not get on the leaves, and especially inside the rosette - this will cause rotting. Water with a watering can with a long narrow spout along the edge of the pot.

For watering, use well-settled water at room temperature for at least a day; during this time, calcium salts will settle to the bottom and the chlorine will have time to evaporate.

Soil 

Light, porous, well-drained soil consisting of turf soil, leaf humus, with the addition of coarse river sand and perlite to improve drainage. The soil may also contain small shell rock.

To loosen the substrate, you can add a small amount of charcoal to it.

Remember that a high organic content in the substrate for succulents is undesirable.

Since in nature the plant develops on rocky soil, very small river pebbles or brick chips can be mixed into the soil mixture.

Haworthia thrives in soils with a low nutrient content. For planting, you can use a ready-made mixture for cacti and succulents.

The substrate should have a neutral or slightly alkaline pH.

Diseases and pests 

• Putrefactive manifestations appear when moisture stagnates at the roots or drops of water get on the outlet with insufficient air movement.
• If the leaves change their color to a yellowish or burgundy tint, there may be an excess of nutrients in the soil.
• Growing in pots that are too large also results in excess moisture accumulation in the soil, which is not utilized by the succulent's root system.
• Keeping it in partial shade will lead to the loss of the colorful, bright color of the leaves, as well as the stretching of the rosette - it will become loose and ugly. 
• Too high a temperature during the dormant period will result in weak and elongated growth - move the pot to a cooler place or use additional lighting, increasing the length of daylight hours.
• If the lower leaves become soft to the touch and wilted, and also fall off easily, this indicates rot.
• Growth rate slows down when grown in partial shade.
• Gray rot can appear from fungal diseases - it occurs when the air is too cold and the air humidity is too high, combined with insufficient air movement.
• If the succulent was grown in partial shade and then immediately placed in direct sunlight, burns in the form of redness or brown spots may appear on the leaves.
• The tips of the leaves dry out due to lack of nutrition. 

Insect pests that may appear include mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and scale insects. If kept outdoors, the leaves may attract slugs and snails.

Temperature

The succulent is thermophilic and during the growing season it is kept at a temperature of 18 - 26 ° C. For some types of Haworthia, it is advisable to provide a dormant period in a cool place, at a temperature of 6 - 10 ° C.

The bushes can tolerate short-term temperature drops to -7 ° C, if at this time they are kept in a dry substrate.

If it is not possible to provide coolness during the dormant period, then artificial lighting should be provided.

Provided that it is sufficiently watered, the flower easily tolerates even the strongest summer heat - shoots and leaves are damaged only when the daytime temperature exceeds 50 ° C.

Lighting

In the warm season, when sun activity is high, the plant should be provided with shade from direct sunlight during the daytime. Haworthias can bask in sunlight during the morning and evening hours.

As a rule, brightly colored leaves should receive more sunlight, while green ones can be kept in partial shade for some time.

In autumn and winter, the lighting can be maximum.

Some species acquire a bronze or burgundy hue with good lighting.

The most suitable place for growing haworthia will be a window sill facing east, west or south. When kept on the south side, you can cover the bushes with a light tulle curtain, and when placed on the north side, artificial lighting in the form of fluorescent or phytolamps will be required.

Haworthia does not like sudden changes in lighting.

To prevent the plant from leaning towards the light source, it is enough to turn the pot a quarter turn around its axis once a month.

Fertilization

In spring and summer, feed monthly or twice a month if you dilute the nutrient solution to half the recommended dose.

Fertilizers for succulents should contain a sufficient amount of elements such as potassium and phosphorus, but have a minimum amount of nitrogen.

In the fall, stop feeding and haworthia goes into a dormant state. Resume fertilizing in the spring, when the first signs of new growth appear - young leaves.

Feed only after abundant watering, when the soil in the pot is moist.

In general, the flower tolerates a lack of nutrients better than their excess.

Succulents are not fed with organic fertilizers.

Succulents do not require high air humidity, they grow well in a normal room atmosphere. In autumn and winter, especially during the cool dormant period, the air in the room should be dry.

The flower loves constantly ventilated rooms with good air circulation, but without access to cold drafts.

Purpose

Compact haworthias can be either independent bushes grown in separate pots, or often used in succulent compositions together with sedums, euphorbias and echeverias.

Slow growth and undemanding conditions allow you to grow this beauty in florariums.

Miniature sizes allow you to collect an impressive collection in a very limited space - for example, on a regular windowsill.

In general, this genus will rather endure neglect than careful care, so it can be safely recommended for growing by novice gardeners.

Note

With good care, haworthia will delight the eye for 20 years or more in indoor culture.

An interesting feature of the plant is that in nature, during a period of prolonged drought, the leaf rosette can almost completely go underground, leaving only the tips of the leaves on the surface. 

Species:

Haworthia fasciata

A small evergreen succulent plant with white, raised dots on the undersurface of thick, fleshy, oblong-triangular leaves. The leaf blades are predominantly dark green in color, and the white spots often merge into transverse stripes. Some specimens bear burgundy-colored leaves on the outside of the leaf rosette. Each rosette contains up to 80 leaves and reaches a height of 20 cm.

Haworthia cooperi

A very interesting subspecies, the plants of which have leaves that are almost completely transparent on the upper side, often covered with long bristles. The transparent upper surface allows sunlight to pass unhindered to the lower leaves of the plant, this feature allows you to use sunlight to the maximum. The lower part of the leaves can be colored light green, bluish green, brown or pink, depending on the specific variety and lighting. The peduncles are erect, up to 30 cm high, bearing at the top many small flowers collected in inflorescences - brushes.

Haworthia margaritifera

Plants of this subspecies resemble aloe in their appearance  - they have pointed, long, triangular leaves, painted dark green. The leaf rosettes are loose, reaching a height of 30 cm. Both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves are covered with small, light, convex dots, sometimes merging into transverse stripes. Leafless peduncles reach a height of 40 cm and bear at the top flowers that are quite large for a haworthia and have a greenish, white or brown tint. 

Haworthia cymbiformis

Leaf succulents with a very delicate appearance. The leaves can be light green, yellowish-orange and sometimes have white stripes. Often the leaf blades have transparent areas that allow sunlight to pass into the plant. The shape of the leaves is variable and can be triangular, pointed or flattened, round. The leaf ribs may have short spines. The color of the leaves of this subspecies may depend on the intensity of light. Peduncles are strong and low. The flowers are white, green or pinkish. 

Haworthia truncata

This subspecies has a very diverse appearance. Some plants have flat leaflets collected in opposite pairs, others have rounded leaves in cross-section with flat tops, similar to fingers. The upper plane of the leaflets is transparent, but the side surfaces can have very different shades - from the standard and familiar green to gray, brown, yellow, burgundy and orange with all possible combinations of these colors. Variegated plants have contrasting stripes of varying thickness on the leaves. Often it seems that the plants were simply cut off from above with a sharp knife. Flowering does not give this subspecies any special charm.

Haworthia retusa

Most often, plants of this subspecies have symmetrical basal leaf rosettes consisting of translucent leaves. The leaves can be either green or yellow, orange, pinkish, burgundy, brown and even almost black. The shape of the leaves also varies from triangular and thick to almost flat, oblong-triangular or round in cross-section, resembling fingers. The plants reach a height of 8 - 40 cm. 

Haworthia limifolia

An attractive, brightly colored succulent with thick, succulent, triangular leaves collected in basal rosettes. Plants have predominantly dark shades; the upper surface of the leaves can be translucent. The leaves of some varieties have convex transverse stripes on the lower and upper surfaces. 

Haworthia tortuosa

With age, these plants form a thick, powerful trunk, densely covered with succulent, oblong-triangular, pointed leaves. The color of the leaves contains dark green, bluish gray and burgundy shades. Often the surfaces of the leaves are covered with convex light dots. 

Haworthia viscosa

Very attractive succulents with thick, erect stems. The leaves are triangular, fleshy, more or less flat, bent in the center, covered with chaotically located convex tubercles. The leaf ribs have thick stripes along the edge. The color of the leaves is predominantly dark - green, almost black or burgundy. The peduncles are tall, thin, leafless, the flowers are quite large, but inconspicuous, tubular. 

Haworthia attenuata

A widespread subspecies in indoor culture, it often forms large clusters. Mature plants form strong trunks, densely covered in spirals with long triangular leaves, painted in a dark green shade. The leaves have contrasting, convex, white spots that merge into stripes on the lower surface. The inside of the leaves is smooth or also covered with specks. Variegated varieties have rosettes that are completely colored in bright orange-yellow tones or striped leaves with dark green, yellow, orange and red stripes.