Dahlia

Domestic dahlias - family. Asteraceae.

Homeland of the plant. Mexico.

Description. Dahlias are perennial herbaceous plants with dark green oblong-lanceolate leaves up to 7 cm long. The underground part is represented by a large brown rhizome - a tuber, which is actually a modified shoot.

Leaf blades often have denticles along the edges. The stems are erect, have a cavity inside, and are brittle.

The flowers are actually large inflorescences consisting of many small tubular flowers located in the center and ligulate flowers along the edge of the flower baskets. Often tubular and reed flowers have a contrasting color.

The inflorescences do not have a clearly defined aroma; only some varieties can emit a subtle, pleasant aroma.  Many forms have been developed in various heights, sizes and shades of colors, except blue. There are terry and simple varieties. 

Currently, the genus includes 13 species of herbaceous plants, and  breeders have bred more than 15,000 varieties of these wonderful flowers. 

The flower came to European countries from Mexico, the name of the plant was given only in the 19th century - the botanist Karl Wildenau gave it the name in honor of the German academician - botanist and ethnographer Johann Georgi. Interestingly, in Mexico, local residents used the tubers for food and also used the flower as a medicine. 

Height of dahlias. Dwarf species up to 50 cm high are suitable for indoor keeping. 

When does the dahlia bloom?

Dahlias bloom from early summer until autumn. When grown in open ground, flowering can only be interrupted by frost.

Dahlias - planting and care

Only strong and healthy plants have abundant and long-lasting flowering. For planting on the site, you should choose only dense, strong tubers that do not have soft areas on the surface, signs of rot or mold, or noticeable wrinkles from drying out. By spring, healthy tubers form small sprouts on the surface. 

When grown in open ground, plants will require proper care - in order for the bushes to remain healthy, they should be watered, fed, and cleared of weeds in a timely manner. Perennial plants must be dug up annually and stored properly so that the tubers do not rot and lose precious moisture from autumn to spring.

It is important to pay attention to the correctly selected area for this flower. When grown in the shade, flowering will be less abundant, and the plants will become loose and elongated. Choose a well-lit area for your dahlia, but remember that if the plant is exposed to the sun during the daytime, the flowering time will be shortened, and the buds may fade under direct rays.

Plant tubers do not tolerate excess moisture, so flooded lowlands and soils with poor drainage are not suitable for growing dalia. Plant the flower on a hill or add a sufficient amount of river sand, wood ash, leaf humus and other components that improve the structure of the soil to the dense soil. 

Tall plants should not be exposed to strong gusts of wind - place such varieties in a quiet corner. Dahlias also do not like cold drafts, so they should not be planted on the north side of buildings and structures.

Bushes prefer nutritious soil with a sufficient amount of organic matter - add well-rotted horse or cow manure, turf humus from a compost pit to the soil before planting, and also mix in a sufficient amount of mineral fertilizers for flowering plants. The soil acidity level should be close to neutral (in the pH range 6.5 - 6.7) - a substrate that is too alkaline or acidic will not suit this plant.

Alkaline soil can be corrected by adding peat or watering with citric acid. You can correct acidic soil by mixing slaked lime or crushed chalk and dolomite flour.

Since pathogens characteristic of a given flower accumulate in the soil over time, the location of the plants should be changed annually, planting them in a new place. The flower can be returned to the site only after 3 - 4 years. 

How and when to plant

Annual collared dahlias are planted in the garden either directly from seeds or using seedlings. Sowing of seeds is usually carried out after May 15, when there is no longer frost at night. Such plants will form the first buds only by the end of July or as early as August.

In order to speed up the onset of flowering, dahlia seedlings are grown at home or purchased at flower shops. Seedlings are placed on the site after preliminary hardening at the end of May or even the beginning of June.

To plant seedlings, prepare planting holes whose width and height will exceed the root ball of the bushes. The distance between the holes is left different, depending on the height of adult plants of a given variety. Information about the size of adult bushes can be found on the package with seeds. If for low varieties only 20 - 30 cm between holes is enough, then higher ones will need more space - 60 - 80 cm are left between holes. Do not place dahlias too densely - high density leads to the appearance of fungal diseases. 

The day before planting, the seedlings are watered generously to soften the soil in the pots. Seedlings grown in plastic containers are carefully removed and transferred together with the root ball into the holes. Bushes that were kept in peat pots are placed together with containers. It is advisable to transplant in the evening or on a cloudy day. Sprinkle soil around the flowers, tamp it lightly and water it generously with warm water.

Perennial  dahlias, which are planted using tubers, require preliminary preparation before planting. In the first half of April, the tubers are taken out of the boxes and carefully examined. Rotten areas and dry root shoots are cut off with a sharply sharpened and sterilized knife. The cut areas are sprinkled with finely crushed charcoal or treated with brilliant green.

In order for the plants to wake up, they are planted in small pots filled with ordinary flower soil. The soil should almost completely cover the tubers - only 2 - 3 cm of growth should remain above its surface. 

Leave the pots in a warm and well-lit place at a temperature of about 20 degrees Celsius. The soil in the pots is kept slightly moist. In this way, the plants are kept for 2 weeks until the first shoots appear, then the tubers are divided into parts as described below. Also, after some time, you can cut off several side shoots from the tubers and use them as cuttings.

When the shoots reach a height of about 10 cm, in the second half of May or the first half of June, when the soil becomes warm enough, the tubers can be planted in the garden.

For planting tubers, holes are prepared, the depth of which should be about 40 cm, the distance between the holes is maintained taking into account the height of the adult bush. A nutrient layer in the form of well-rotted manure or humus is placed at the bottom of the holes and sprinkled with a thin layer of soil so that the roots do not get burned when in contact with organic matter. 

Directly under the tuber itself, you can put a small drainage layer of river sand, crushed stone or broken brick. The planting depth should be such that the tuber is covered on top with a layer of soil about 6 cm thick. After planting, there will be a shoot 4 - 5 cm high above the soil surface.

After planting, the soil is lightly tamped to remove air pockets, and the plants are watered abundantly. If frosts are predicted at night, then the planting area is simply covered with non-woven material or the planting sites are placed under a plastic bottle.

Once the seedlings and tubers have taken root in the new location, the dahlia shoots can be surrounded with a layer of mulch about 5 cm high. The mulch can be made from sawdust, peat, straw or young grass clippings. Such a layer will protect the soil from too rapid evaporation of moisture and will prevent the germination of weeds. 

Watering and fertilizing

Dahlias need timely watering, especially if the weather is hot and dry for a long period of time. Water the plants in the morning or evening, introducing a sufficiently large amount of moisture under the roots. Do not allow water to get on the leaves and stems - this leads to the appearance of fungal diseases.

When watering during the daytime, the water evaporates too quickly, without having time to be absorbed into the soil. For irrigation, rain water preheated in the sun is used.

Dalia develops quite quickly and blooms profusely, so it needs regular fertilization. Better results can be achieved by alternating mineral compositions for flowering plants and organic fertilizers. 

Only well-rotted cow or horse manure, humus or a weak solution of chicken manure are used as organic matter. Mineral fertilizers should contain increased amounts of elements such as potassium and phosphorus and a minimum of nitrogen.

Nitrogen fertilizers are only suitable for feeding seedlings - they help to form the green mass of plants. If adult bushes are fed with nitrogen, abundant leaf growth will occur to the detriment of bud formation.

Dahlias are fed 2 times a month throughout the season - the first feeding is carried out 2 weeks after planting, the last - when flowering ends. As a final feeding, you can add potassium compounds that will help maintain the health of the tubers for wintering. 

How to care

As the plant grows, you can add an additional layer of soil - it will serve as support for tall stems. Flowers not only need watering and fertilizing - at the base of the bushes it is necessary to loosen the soil so that the root system has the opportunity to breathe. Loosen the soil carefully, trying not to touch the tubers and roots of the flower. After loosening, the area is usually weeded and the mulch layer is renewed.

To extend flowering time, fading buds should be trimmed in a timely manner. Pruning is carried out with a sharpened pruner or a sterile knife.

Dahlia also needs formative pruning. If plants are left to develop on their own, they will form a large number of inflorescences of small diameter. In order to get large flower baskets on one peduncle, leave the strongest top bud and pinch the side buds. You should not remove buds on pompom and small-flowered plants. 

If during the season too many shoots appear at the base of the bush, then the excess ones are simply cut out, leaving 2 - 3 main stems. For medium and low-growing varieties, you can leave all the stems - this will make the plants appear more luxuriant.

To ensure that plants do not waste their energy in vain, they should also be pinched. Stepchildren are additional branches that form in the axils of the leaves - between the stem and the leaf blade. If such shoots are left untouched, the dahlia will develop a large amount of greenery, and bloom will be sparse. Just like tomatoes, the stepsons of dalia must be plucked out before the flowers form. If tall plants have stepsons above the 4th pair of leaves, they are left on the bush. If green growth appears on the root collar, it is also cut off.

In order to get a large bush with a sufficient number of side shoots, it is enough to pinch the main stem above 5 - 6 pairs of leaves. Subsequently, flower baskets will appear on each side branch and as a result, flowering will be abundant. 

To prevent the appearance and development of fungal diseases, it is better to cut off the lower leaves of tall bushes over time - this way the bases of the plants will be better blown with air. Dwarf and low varieties are most often not subjected to shaping, giving complete freedom.2 - 

Tall varieties should be provided with support, since the hollow tubular stems easily break under the influence of wind or simply under the weight of the buds. The support should be immediately inserted next to the planted tuber - if you are late with such a measure, the support may damage the developed roots of the flower.

Interestingly, if the stem does break, the plant can be helped. The shoot is straightened at the fracture site and fixed using improvised means like a splint. This method will help the flower restore sap flow and the plant will continue to form flowers even on a broken shoot. 

When to dig up dahlias

In mid-October, as soon as the first night frosts hit, it is worth taking care of preserving the tubers for later planting in the spring. The fact is that in the conditions of the Middle Zone, perennial dahlias do not overwinter - severe frosts kill the tubers.

Before digging up the plant, cut off the entire above-ground part, leaving only 5 - 6 cm of growth. The shoots should not be completely removed - they should dry naturally on the tuber. The fact is that if you cut off the branches at the base, then even a small amount of water getting into the wounds can cause rot of the tuber. 

Since the shoots easily break off from the tubers, you should be careful when digging them up. It is best to start digging dahlias early in the morning, on a fine day - in this case, the root collar will dry out and it will become more difficult to break it off.

To dig up a bush at a distance of 30 - 35 cm from the main stem, stick a pitchfork in a circle, gradually going deeper under the roots of the flower. Next, the tubers are taken out of the ground, the long roots are cut off, the tubers are shaken off the remaining soil, washed with running water and sent for drying.

If wounds and scratches are found, they are cleaned with a sterile knife and treated with brilliant green or crushed coal. 

Storing tubers in winter

Tubers dried for 2 - 3 days in a ventilated room can be stored. First, the root collar is powdered with crushed chalk or wood ash. A ventilated cellar is suitable for storage, where in the autumn and winter the air temperature is 4 - 5 degrees Celsius, and the air humidity is in the range from 60 to 70 percent relative.

The main difficulty is maintaining the required level of moisture in the planting material. the fact is that overdried tubers weaken, and with high humidity the plants easily rot.

In order to preserve the tubers until spring, river sand, sawdust or peat are poured into small boxes. Plants are placed on this layer and covered again. You can layer the layers with sheets of old newspapers. If the tubers become too dry and wrinkled, lightly moisten the sand or peat. 

If there is insufficient air movement, mold or rot may also appear - open the basement from time to time and ventilate the tubers.

In an apartment, you can first store the tubers behind a glazed balcony, and then bring them indoors, but leave them in the coolest place. You can place bags of tubers in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

Every 2 weeks, the tubers are taken out and checked - rotten ones are cut off to healthy tissue or discarded completely, leaving only healthy planting material. In the spring, before planting, the rhizomes should be soaked for half an hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. 

Waxing of tubers

If the house does not have suitable conditions for storing tubers - there is no basement and there are only warm rooms - then ordinary paraffin will help preserve the rhizomes until spring. For waxing, the substance is heated in a water bath and the tubers are dipped into it.

The rhizomes are pulled out for a few seconds, cooled a little and lowered back into the pan, thus covering with 2 - 3 layers. Prepared tubers are sent to plastic bags filled with barely damp river sand, sawdust or peat. The packages are tightly closed. 

Application in landscape design

Depending on the variety and type, dahlias can be grown as a bright accent that will add drama to any flower garden. Tall varieties of perennial and annual dahlias are suitable for placement in the spotlight.

Medium-sized plants should be planted closer to the edge of the flowerbed so that they do not get lost in the riot of colors among taller plants.

Dwarf bushes will be an excellent decoration for the garden path and will help to protect the flower garden or flower bed from the rest of the area.

Dahlias look great both in group plantings and as a single plant. Compact varieties can be successfully grown in pots and placed on balconies and at home. 

Reproduction

There are several ways to propagate dalia. Plants can be grown from seeds (this method is mainly used for annuals), you can divide the tubers when planting, or use stem cuttings of side shoots. In the first case, you can use seeds from your own collection, but the plants obtained from them can be very different from the mother bushes. Seedlings often lose the varietal attractiveness and characteristics of their parents.

Vegetative propagation methods - division and cuttings - guarantee an exact copy of the parent bush and are more often used when propagating perennial species and varieties.

Growing from seeds 

Annual dahlias are easily grown from seeds, which are sown in late winter or early spring at home to produce seedlings. Seeds can be pre-germinated in slightly damp river sand.

If you use your own planting material, it should be disinfected by soaking it for half an hour in a weak pinkish solution of potassium permanganate. A few drugs that accelerate plant development can be mixed into the solution. The floating seeds are collected from the surface of the water and thrown away - there will be no shoots from them.

After soaking, the planting material is dried on a paper towel. A layer of river sand 5 - 7 mm thick is placed in a small tray. and moisturize it. Sow dahlia seeds.  Since the seeds are quite large, they are easily distributed over the surface of the sand. 

For successful germination, it is advisable to use bottom heating and place the seedlings in a warm room at a temperature of 25 - 28 degrees Celsius. After about 10 - 12 days, the first shoots will be visible in the sand.

Pre-sprouted plants can be immediately compressed into small plastic cups or peat pots. Such seedlings are grown without diving - the grown bushes can immediately be planted in a permanent place. 

You can do without pre-soaking and sow the purchased seeds immediately. For sowing, it is worth purchasing special seedling boxes with drainage holes and transparent lids in advance. A moisture-wicking layer of broken brick, pieces of foam plastic, small stones or expanded clay is first placed on the bottom of the boxes.

The boxes are filled with nutritious flower soil, into which up to 30 - 50 percent of the total volume of the mixture is mixed with river sand. To grow a flower, you can use either ready-made soil mixtures or make your own soil from components such as peat, leaf and turf humus, and river sand. 

The surface of the substrate is lightly tamped with your fingertips, and the soil is also thoroughly moistened with warm water from a spray bottle. The seeds are evenly distributed over the surface of the earth and covered with soil about 3 - 5 mm thick on top, and moistened again.

To create a greenhouse effect in both cases, the seedlings are covered with a transparent film or a plastic cover - a cap. Every day the cover is removed and the crops are ventilated, and the water condensation that appears overnight is removed. With the appearance of the first shoots, the cover is removed completely.

Keep seedlings at room temperature, in a well-lit place without direct sunlight. When each bush can boast 2 - 3 real leaf blades, a dive is carried out. Small plants are carefully picked up along with a lump of earth and moved to a separate container. The composition of the soil in the pots should be the same in which the flower seeds were sown. 

Keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. Watering is carried out immediately after the top layer of the substrate has slightly dried. 7 - 10 days after diving, the seedlings are fed for the first time with a weak solution of nitrogen mineral fertilizers.

In the first half of May, you can harden the bushes. Boxes with flowers are taken out into the fresh air during the day for a couple of hours a day and the time is gradually increased. After 7 - 10 days, the seedlings will be completely ready to move to the site. 

Division of dahlias

The tubers can be cut into several parts in the spring with a sharp sterile pruner. The division is carried out in the spring after the first shoots appear as a result of germination, because in each division with this method of reproduction it is necessary to leave at least one growth bud.

Cut the tubers into pieces with a sharp sterile knife and be sure to treat the cut areas with an antiseptic to prevent the appearance of rot. The cutting sites should be away from the growth buds.

Delenki can be planted in separate pots or planted in the garden. In the first few days, watering such plants should be moderate, since excess moisture getting on the wound surface can provoke the appearance of rot.

Reproduction by division can be used mainly by experienced gardeners, since there is a high risk of losing plants altogether. During such propagation, plants become rejuvenated. 

Cuttings

For cuttings, side shoots are used, which are formed in the spring, when the tubers are planted in pots at home. The plants are left indoors until the side shoots reach a height of 10-12 cm. Once the goal is achieved, the shoots are cut off, the bases are treated with rooting powders and lowered into a barely moist substrate to a depth of about 1 cm at a slight angle.

The cuttings are covered with film or glass on top to maintain a high level of air humidity. Leave the cuttings in a well-lit room without direct sunlight. Every day the cover is removed and the plants are ventilated. After 2 - 3 weeks, the first signs of new growth can be seen at the base of the cuttings - this indicates that the first roots have appeared underground.

After another month, such specimens can be placed outdoors. This method of propagation allows you to get several plants from one tuber at once and can replace division, during which the tuber may even die. 

Varieties of perennial dahlias according to the shape of the inflorescences:

Pompon dahlias

 Perennial plants, the characteristic feature of which is the round shape of the inflorescence. Among pompom species, compact plants are often found, whose height ranges from 30 to 50 cm. Some varieties can grow up to 1 m in height. The inflorescences reach a diameter of 5 - 6 cm and consist of many large reed flowers, due to which the flower caps look especially voluminous.

Simple, single-row, non-double dahlias

The plants are characterized by inflorescences reminiscent of chamomile. The flower heads have wide reed petals arranged in 1 row and numerous tubular flowers forming a yellow center of the inflorescence. These bushes reach a height of 50 - 60 cm and are grown from seeds.

Cactus-shaped or needle-shaped dahlias

 The main feature of the inflorescences of this species is that the reed flowers are very long and rolled into dense tubes (needles). The edges of the petals are located towards the outside of the inflorescences. In addition to the cactus-shaped form, the reed flowers of which are rolled into a tube along the entire length, there is also a semi-cactus type - in the inflorescences of these plants, the reed flowers are rolled into a tube starting from the middle.

Globular dahlias

 Plants are distinguished by round, spherical inflorescences consisting of a large number of reed flowers. The flowers may be slightly bent or rolled into a tube. Unlike pompon dahlias, this species has a large inflorescence shape - they often reach a diameter of 8 - 10 cm.

Anemone dahlias

 Inflorescences of this type consist of ligulate, wide flowers arranged in several rows along the edge of the inflorescence and many long tubular flowers forming a lush cap in the center of the inflorescence.

Peony dahlias

 The inflorescences consist of several rows of large, often lanceolate, reed flowers located along the edge of the flower baskets and tightly closed, small tubular flowers in the center. In appearance, inflorescences of this type often resemble the buds of a tree peony.

Nymphea or lotus-shaped dahlias - Dahlia Water-lily

 Wide reed flowers are collected in 6 - 7 rows along the edge of the inflorescence, with tubular flowers remaining in the center. Often flower baskets of this type remain half-open, and tubular flowers remain tightly closed.

Colarette Dahlia

 This species has other names - “cheerful guys” or “cuff dahlias”. The species is a herbaceous plant from 30 to 90 cm in height with dark green, glossy leaves. The leaf blades have a coarsely toothed edge. The repeatedly branched stems are hollow in the center and form brightly colored flower baskets at the tops. In fact, pompon dahlias are perennials, but they cannot withstand freezing temperatures and are grown as annual plants. Flower baskets are semi-double - consist of wide reed flowers located in 1 - 2 rows along the edge of the inflorescences. A distinctive feature of the flower baskets of this species is that between the reed and tubular flowers there is a “collar” - often contrastingly colored small petals. The tubular flowers are small, often yellow, located in the center of the inflorescences. The flowering period for these plants begins in the second half of summer and often lasts until frost - flower heads constantly replace each other.

Varieties: 

Dahlia Gallery

 Compact perennials 30 - 40 cm high. A characteristic feature of the variety are peony-shaped inflorescences with a diameter of up to 13 cm. The flowers are painted in a delicate pink shade, the bases of the reed flowers are yellow. As they fade, the inflorescences turn salmon-colored. Delicate pastel flower heads appear in July and contrast well with the dark, glossy leaves.

Dahlia Figaro

 A bright mixture consisting of plants whose flower heads are painted in solid shades - white, yellow, pink or red. The first buds form already 8 - 12 weeks after planting the tubers. Reed flowers remain golden yellow. The plants are compact in size - their height is only 15 - 30 cm.

Dahlia Eveline

 Tall flowering perennial with a height of 90 - 120 s. The main decoration of the plants are very delicate flower heads with numerous reed flowers tightly rolled into a tube. Closer to the center of the inflorescence, the petals are colored cream, in the center they are white, and the edges remain soft lilac.

Dahlia Melody

 Plants of medium height - bushes reach 50 - 60 cm in height and retain a dense shape. The inflorescences are large, double, reach a diameter of 10 - 12 cm, and are colored in lilac, salmon, red, and orange shades.

Dahlia double Vancouver

 Tall perennial - shoots of this variety reach 1 meter in height. The plants have very large, attractive inflorescences, reaching a diameter of 20 - 25 cm. Numerous reed petals are painted in a dark crimson or burgundy shade with white tips.

Dahlia Akita

 Flowering perennials up to 90 - 120 cm high with very large chrysanthemum-like inflorescences. The diameter of the flower heads can reach 13 cm. The inflorescences consist of numerous reed flowers curved inside the basket. The bases of the flowers are painted yellow, the tips are burgundy with thin white strokes.

Decorative dahlia Tartan

 Plants of this variety reach a height of 80 - 90 cm and during the flowering period they adorn themselves with spectacular flower heads. The reed flowers of these perennials are painted in a velvety burgundy color, while the center remains white. The diameter of flower baskets reaches 17 - 20 cm.

Dahlias Spartacus

 Very tall perennials, easily exceeding 1 meter and reaching a height of 150 cm. A characteristic feature of the inflorescences of this variety are numerous reed buds with corrugated edges, painted in a wine-red hue. The flower heads are slightly ruffled and reach a diameter of 20 - 22 cm.

Dahlia Lavender Perfection

 "Lavender Perfection" is a tall bush, reaching 1 meter in height. Flower baskets reach a diameter of 20 - 25 cm and consist of many slightly curved reed flowers.

Dahlia collared Dandy

 This variety is grown as an annual and fully lives up to its name. The bushes are medium-sized - reaching 50 - 60 m in height. In the second half of summer, the flowering period begins - large, brightly colored inflorescences are formed. The reed flowers are wide and can be painted in white, yellow, pink, red, burgundy shades. The inflorescences have a light, often contrasting collar. Tubular flowers are numerous, bright orange, small.

Dahlias Maxime

 These tall plants reach a height of 120 cm. This variety is often used for cutting - the flowers do not lose their attractiveness for a long time in a vase with water. Elegant red inflorescences consist of reed flowers bent into a loose tube. The edges of the petals have a thin yellow border.

Dahlia Duet

 A medium-sized variety characterized by large, brightly colored burgundy inflorescences. The tips of the reed flowers are painted white, contrasting with the main dark tone of the inflorescence. The bushes reach a height of 80 - 90 cm, and the diameter of the flower heads often exceeds 15 - 18 cm.

Dahlias Procyon

 Perennials of this variety grow up to 90 cm and are distinguished by bright yellow flower heads. The inflorescences consist of lingual flowers, the tubular ones are located in the center and often never open. The tips of the petals are painted scarlet. The flower baskets reach 10 - 12 cm in diameter.

Zorro

 Bushes up to 100 - 120 cm high consist of branched vertical shoots, at the top of which there are spectacular burgundy inflorescences. The flower heads consist predominantly of wide ligulate flowers. Inflorescences reach a diameter of 10 - 12 cm.

Dahlia Nenekazi

 These flowering perennials grow up to 120 cm in height and during the flowering period they form semi-cactus flower heads in pastel colors. The reed flowers, rolled into dense tubes, are colored at the base in a lemon-yellow hue, which gradually turns into pink.

Dahlia Hawaii

 The shades of the inflorescences of a plant of this variety amaze the imagination with its brightness - if the reed flowers at the base are colored orange, the main tone of the petals remains red. The tips of the reed flowers have a white spot. The plants reach a height of 60 - 80 cm.

Growing at home

How to care, pruning 

Dahlia shoots must be pinched to encourage branching. The first time you should pinch it is when the plant has three pairs of leaves. 

Transplanting dahlias 

In the spring, as they grow and develop into larger pots.

Feeding 

Dahlias are fed with low-nitrogen fertilizers during the growing season. With an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, the plant will abundantly increase green mass to the detriment of flowering. 

Containment temperature

Heat-loving plants, normal room temperature will do. In winter, it is advisable to lower the temperature to 12 - 15 ° C. 

Lighting

The optimal location would be a very brightly lit place with light shading from direct sunlight in the summer.

Soil for growing dahlias

Plants should be grown in acidic or neutral soil, with good drainage and sufficient organic matter in the form of leaf humus and manure.

Spraying

Periodically spray the plants kept in the house.

Water potted dahlia

Water generously in the warmer months, reduce watering in winter and allow the top layer of soil to dry out between waterings. 

Pests and diseases of dahlias

Among the harmful insects, spider mites, bedbugs, earwigs, aphids, thrips, slugs and snails, nematodes, cutworm caterpillars, whiteflies, and bronze beetles can be dangerous.

Note

Most often, indoor dahlias are thrown away after flowering.