Impatiens

Family. Balsaminaceae.

Homeland. Impatiens is native to South Asia, East Africa and New Guinea.

Description. In everyday life, there are many different names for this species - for example, touch-me-not. The most interesting name - "Vanka wet" appeared due to the fact that at high air humidity, droplets of moisture are released on the leaves.

The flowers are usually simple, 5-petal, pink, red, purple, blue, white and two-colored with white stripes in the center of the petals, appearing at the tops of the shoots. Some varieties have double buds.

Soft, oval or heart-shaped leaves are located on juicy, fragile stems; in cultivated hybrids, they have a very diverse color - light or dark green, two-colored or variegated - with yellowish specks.

The bush blooms most of the year.

The name "touch-me-not" is given because after pollination, seed pods are formed, which dry out over time and open with a roar at the slightest touch, throwing seeds in different directions.

Height. For indoor cultivation, low varieties and species are selected - they often do not exceed 20 cm, garden bushes can reach 1 m in height.

Care at home

Soil 

Light peat-based substrate, preferably with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, rich in organic matter, with the addition of coarse sand to improve water outflow.

A fairly thick layer of drainage in the form of expanded clay must be placed at the bottom of the pot.

The growing soil should allow moisture and air to easily pass through to the roots.

To improve drainage, coarse river sand, perlite or vermiculite are added to the soil.

Reproduction, cuttings

Impatiens propagates vegetatively - by cuttings and generatively - by seeds.

You can easily root stem cuttings in water or moist soil - the first roots can be seen after 5-7 days.

1. In spring or summer, apical cuttings about 10 cm long are separated from the mother bush.
2. The lower leaves are either removed from the shoots or the leaf blades are cut to half their length to reduce moisture loss. 
3. The cuttings are immersed in the substrate or water to a depth of about 2 cm.
4. The seedlings are covered with transparent polyethylene film or glass.
5. Rooting is carried out in a warm place, inaccessible to direct sunlight.

Remember that specimens rooted in water, when planted in the ground, slow down their development for some time - this is how they adapt to new conditions. The first buds that appear on the seedlings must be removed - too early flowering will take a lot of strength from fragile plants.

Propagation by seeds is easy and within the power of novice gardeners.

1. Sowing of seeds is carried out in spring or early summer, in the presence of additional lighting, and to obtain flowering bushes in the summer months, seeds are sown in late February - early March.
2. Crops are covered with transparent film or glass to maintain uniform humidity.
3. The seedlings are taken to a bright and warm place with a temperature of about 18 - 20 ° C without direct sunlight.
4. Watering is carried out using a spray bottle.
5. The first shoots may appear within 2 - 4 weeks. The crops germinate unevenly and the bushes develop differently.

The first picking is done when each plant has 2 true leaves. Before picking, the soil is well moistened to make it easier to separate the young shoots from each other.

Picking is done carefully so as not to damage the delicate root system.

The first feeding is done, if necessary, 10 days after picking.

Instead of sowing in the soil, you can soak the seeds in a damp bandage or gauze - then they can be planted in the substrate without picking - immediately in separate pots.

The seedlings develop well only if there is at least 12 hours of daylight - if possible, organize artificial lighting. If there is insufficient lighting, the shoots stretch out - the distance between the internodes increases.

As they grow, you can add soil to the pots.

When the height reaches about 10 cm, the tops of the young shoots are cut to half their height - this way additional lateral branches are formed, and the resulting apical cuttings can be used for subsequent vegetative propagation.

Diseases and pests

• If your balsam is not blooming, you may have given it too large a pot.
• Flowering is less abundant if there is a lack or excess of light, the temperature is too low or the feeding regime is incorrect.
• Too dry air in the room, lack of light, as well as infection with red spider mites provoke the dropping of buds.
• If the impatiens is stretched out, it means it does not have enough light.
• The bush sheds buds if the soil is too dry or the air humidity is insufficient.
• With insufficient watering, the leaves wither and lose turgor, but quickly recover after watering.
• Over-watering and over-cooling of the root system lead to the appearance of rot, so it is necessary to remove damaged parts and reduce watering.
• Leaf fall occurs when there is a lack of light or exposure to cold drafts.
• The edges of the leaves become dry and brown with prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.
• Chlorosis occurs when there is a lack of iron in the soil - in this case, the leaf blades turn yellow and the veins remain dark.
• Gray rot due to excessive watering and high air humidity in the cold season.

Spider mites, aphids, thrips or whiteflies can be a serious problem.

Transplant

Plants prefer tight conditions, so repot them only when the roots fill the entire pot.

If you offer the balsam too big a pot, it will delay flowering until it completely occupies the new space. In addition, the size of the bush can be adjusted by the volume of the pot - in cramped conditions, growth is delayed.

1. Use a pot with large drainage holes to prevent root rot.
2. Place a drainage layer of expanded clay, broken bricks or pieces of polystyrene at the bottom of the pot.
3. Place some soil on the drainage layer.
4. Place plants with straightened root systems in the center of the pot - the roots should not be directed upward or bent.
5. When planting, it is important to observe the planting depth - place the bushes at the same depth at which they were in the previous pot.
6. Sprinkle the roots with substrate and compact it lightly.

After transplanting, place the pot in a place protected from direct sunlight.

Feed the indoor balsam 3-4 weeks after transplanting. Earlier feeding is not recommended, as fresh soil contains enough nutrients.

If the plant looks good and its condition does not cause concern, then instead of transplanting, you can use transshipment - in this case, the bush is moved to a new pot along with the old lump of earth.

Care, how to trim

Impatiens is quite unpretentious and not at all difficult to care for, but it requires adherence to certain agricultural practices.

The bushes will not bloom if they do not have enough light. Do not move flowering specimens from place to place - they can shed already formed buds.

When growing indoors, you should find a place where the shoots and leaves will receive at least 4 hours of bright indirect sun every day.

In the warm season, it is better to take the pot outside, protecting it from wind and rain.

Remove old, wilted buds in a timely manner to stimulate the plant to form new flowers.

Pinch the stems of young seedlings to form side branches, which will make this flower more lush and thick.

Watering

If the impatiens is kept in a warm location, keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy all year round, and reduce the frequency of watering during the winter months depending on the temperature.

Flowering plants need more moisture.

Remove drooping flower stalks to maintain a neat appearance.

Prune stems in spring to promote denser foliage and more abundant blooms during the growing season.

When it blooms

Spring - autumn  almost all year round with good care. Flowering occurs in waves at intervals of 10 - 12 days. 

Growing conditions - temperature

The optimum temperature is in the range of 16 - 24 °C. In the winter months, in conditions of short daylight hours, it is better to keep them cool, so they will slow down their development.

A cool winter will help the bush to rest and form a large number of buds in the next season. Shoots that appear in the winter months, with warm conditions and lack of light, will be thin and unsightly.

Do not expose plants to temperatures below 12 °C.

In the winter months, touch-me-nots will be afraid of so-called "cold feet" - put the pot on a thin sheet of polystyrene foam or other insulation.

Fertilizer 

Feed monthly in spring and summer with fertilizers high in potassium and phosphorus at half strength. Overfed specimens will not bloom as profusely.

If impatiens is kept in a cool place in winter, stop feeding.

Spraying 

Air humidity is moderate.

Place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles or use a room humidifier.

Spraying can leave unsightly whitish spots on the leaves and when drops of water get on the buds, the latter lose their attractive appearance.

Impatiens loves good air movement, but does not tolerate cold drafts.

Lighting

Bright light without exposure to direct sunlight, especially on hot summer days.

If provided with sufficient light, the bush will continue to bloom in winter.

Variegated varieties should receive more light than green-leaved varieties. During summer and spring daytime, plants should be shaded. 

Purpose

Impatiens is one of the most popular plants for hanging baskets, its buds add a bright accent to balconies, loggias and, of course, rooms.

Despite all its attractiveness, representatives of the species do not require special growing conditions; these features allowed the flower to become very popular in floriculture.

Note

Impatiens are pleasing to the eye at any time of the year - flowering can occur in autumn and winter, and it usually occurs in waves with short periods of time. In this regard, it is worth remembering that the plant leaves a lot of debris around itself in the form of fallen dry buds.

Adult specimens often become too bulky and lose leaves at the base of the stems - such bushes can be rejuvenated by pruning or replaced with new seedlings obtained using cuttings.

Hydroponics

Not suitable for growing hydroponically as fallen flowers and leaves clog the nutrient solution. 

Varieties:

New Guinea Impatiens

Varieties of this line are distinguished by abundant, year-round flowering in indoor conditions and unpretentiousness to lighting conditions - they tolerate direct sunlight in the morning and evening. Flowers with 5 rounded petals, in shades of pink, white, blue or orange. Many plants, in addition to colorful flowering, are also distinguished by variegated leaves. By arranging several ornamental plants with different flower colors in one pot, you can get a gorgeous living bouquet. These low-growing plants are great to grow at home.

Terry impatiens

Flowers of this species have a large number of petals and look very lush. The color range is very diverse and even includes two-color varieties. Externally, the flowers of double impatiens often resemble a rose or double varieties of azalea. Terry-type varieties include the very attractive large-flowered impatiens "Athena" and some varieties of Waller's impatiens.

Impatiens walleriana

Attractive flowering plants up to 60 cm high with thick, succulent, erect stems. The leaves are on short petioles, broadly lanceolate, up to 7.5 cm long, and can be painted in any shade of green. An interesting feature of the plants is that young leaves are arranged in opposite pairs, while in the middle of the stems and closer to their base they become alternate. The leaf blades are covered with a whole network of veins and have a finely toothed edge. The flowers are apical, solitary, very bright - painted in a very wide range of colors. Flowering can occur at any time of the year and often occurs in waves, several days apart. This variety is used in producing hybrid plants that are widely used in indoor cultivation. 

Impellated balsam

The varieties of this selection are distinguished by drooping stems, which allows them to be grown in hanging baskets. With proper care, the ampelous dwarf balsam completely hides the pot and forms a large flowering ball, for example, the Elfin balsam.

Impatiens Arguta

Tall plants up to 90 - 120 cm high with erect shoots. The leaves are emerald green, lanceolate, with small teeth along the edge. The leaf blades are soft to the touch. The flowers are solitary, funnel-shaped, painted in white, purple, lilac, pink or blue. The throat of the flowers often has an orange tint.

Impatiens glandulifera

Tall herbaceous perennials, which in open ground can reach a height of 2 m. Stems are erect, slightly branched. The leaves are lanceolate and, when damaged, emit an unpleasant odor. During the flowering period, bright, pink flowers with a diameter of up to 3 - 4 cm appear on the tops of the shoots. 

The plant got its name because it has special glands on its stems that secrete sweet nectar.

Impatiens grandis

 Evergreen perennial plants with upright, stiff stems. The leaves are green, glossy, broadly lanceolate, with small teeth along the edge. The leaf petioles may be bright pink. Leaf veins are slightly recessed into the surface of the leaves. The flowers are white or pink, with bright red or burgundy splashes on the petals, reaching a diameter of 5 cm.

Impatiens Noli-tangere

Herbaceous plants with thin, erect stems, branched mainly at the base. The leaves are emerald green, lanceolate, on thin petioles. The leaf blades have small denticles along the edges and are covered with a network of branched veins. The flowers are solitary, tubular - yellow or orange, often with dark - burgundy or brown speckles in the throat, appearing mainly in the upper part of the stems.

Impatiens balfourii

Herbaceous plants with often brown colored stems. The leaves are up to 4 cm long, glossy, green, broadly lanceolate, with small teeth along the edges. The central vein is often highlighted in a lighter shade. Very thin, leafless flower stalks appear at the top of the stems and bear inflorescences consisting of small, attractive flowers with lilac or pink lower petals. The flowers reach 2 cm in diameter.

Impatiens parviflora

Compact flowering plants up to 60 cm high. The shoots are erect, branched at the base. The leaves are green, glossy, lanceolate, finely toothed, arranged alternately, on short petioles. During the flowering period, plants form thin axillary peduncles with small yellowish flowers on the tops of the shoots.

Currently, all kinds of variegated varieties with leaves colored in different shades have been bred.