Pedilanthus

Family. Euphorbiaceae.

Origin. Central America, Mexico.

Description. The genus Pedilanthus consists of approximately 15 species of multi-stemmed shrubs or trees. The stems are erect, branch rarely, but grow in zigzags - making turns at the locations of leaf nodes. The leaves are sessile, 4 to 8 cm long, arranged oppositely, rather densely, oval or lanceolate. The color of the leaves is quite varied - from standard green to green with white, yellow or pink spots and stripes in variegated species. The surface of the leaves has a smooth, waxy coating. The stems and leaves are very juicy and fleshy, helping plants store moisture reserves in case of dry weather.

In the summer months, the plant forms small flowers, collected in small inflorescences at the tops of the stems. The flowers are not as interesting as the large, bright bracts of red or pink shades. The appearance is variable and will sometimes depend on environmental conditions. Since pedilanthus grows in different climatic zones, in arid areas, in order to save moisture and preserve its reserves, the plants got rid of leaves, but acquired dense branches, and with sufficient moisture, the bushes already become owners of juicy green foliage.

Height. When grown in pots, it reaches 80-150 cm and develops rather slowly, adding only 10-15 cm of growth per year. In nature, there are shrubs whose growth can reach 3 m.

Care at home

Reproduction 

Pedilanus reproduces vegetatively - by cuttings using apical cuttings and generatively - by sowing seeds. The seeds retain good germination for a couple of years - then it sharply decreases. Seeds are sown in the spring using a transparent plastic container with a lid and a nutrient substrate consisting of peat and sand in equal quantities. Drainage holes are made at the bottom of the container and the bottom is covered with a small layer of drainage. Next, fill in the soil and thoroughly moisten it with a fine spray. 

The seedlings are placed in a warm place with a temperature of 20 - 25 °C, in the shade from direct sunlight. The top of the container is covered with a lid, transparent polyethylene film or glass to create a greenhouse effect and maintain high air humidity. The container is opened daily, the condensate accumulated on its surface is removed and the crops are aired. The airing time is gradually increased. As the substrate dries, it is moistened with a sprayer with water at room temperature.

From the moment the first shoots appear, the cover can be completely removed. Planting into separate pots is done when 2 - 3 true leaves are formed on each bush. The picking is carried out carefully, trying to minimally disturb the root system. 10-12 days after picking, you can feed the seedlings for the first time with a very weak solution of mineral fertilizers.

Vegetative propagation using stem cuttings is quite easy. Cuttings are obtained in the spring, when pruning - they are separated from the mother plant with a sharp knife or secateurs. The length of the cuttings should reach 10 - 12 cm and have 3 - 4 internodes. After pruning, remove the lower leaves and wash off the milky juice with running water or blot with a paper towel. You can also place the cuttings in a glass of water until the juice stops coming out. After washing, dry the cut site in the fresh air for several hours.

The bases of the cuttings are placed in moist and loose soil to a depth of about 4 cm and the container with seedlings is placed in a well-lit and warm place, where there is no direct sunlight. The seedlings should not be covered from above - stagnation of moist air near the plants will lead to rotting. In 2 - 3 weeks after separation and immersion in the substrate, young leaves should appear on the cuttings - this will indicate that the first roots have formed underground. A month after the signs of new growth appear, the cuttings are planted in small pots with 3 - 4 branches in each and they begin to be cared for as for adult specimens.

Rooting goes well even in water, to which you should first add an activated carbon tablet. Place a cutting in a glass of water and cover it with an opaque material - it is believed that in the dark the formation of roots occurs faster. Cuttings rooted in water when planted in a substrate will slightly delay their development - this is normal. 

Pruning at home, care

Indoor pedilanthus is able to adapt to various growing conditions and does not require special care, this plant is quite suitable for growing by novice gardeners. Long stems sometimes require support. To maintain a compact shape, long stems can be cut at the desired height - usually all branches longer than 20 cm are subject to such pruning. Without formative pruning, instead of a compact and neat flower, you will get a large and spreading bush with bare lower parts of the branches. Pruning should be done with a sharpened and sterilized tool.

The best time for pruning is spring, when the first leaves appear. Old and diseased shoots are removed from time to time to maintain an attractive appearance and prevent the development of diseases. Old, overgrown bushes are rejuvenated by pruning. Rejuvenating pruning involves cutting off the entire above-ground part at a level of 5-7 cm from the surface of the substrate. Pedilanthus easily tolerates pruning and quickly recovers from it. Young shoots should be pinched from time to time so that they form lateral branches.

If, while maintaining the house, it was possible to achieve flowering, then over time the fading buds should be pinched. The plants will appreciate it if you place it outside during the spring and summer. Choose a place for the flower where it will be protected from strong gusts of wind, heavy rainfall and direct sunlight.

Representatives of this genus should not be placed in close proximity to heating devices - in a dry and hot atmosphere, the flower will shed its leaves. The bushes will also react negatively to the effects of cold drafts - take the pots to another room when airing in the winter months and do not place them near air conditioners in the summer. After flowering, a period of rest begins, which the flower should spend in cool conditions with scanty and rare watering. In the fall, some specimens shed their leaves - this is normal.

When it blooms 

It blooms in summer, but when grown indoors, it rarely blooms. Flowering can only be expected if the bushes have overwintered in the right conditions - cool and relatively dry. Interestingly, buds often form in late autumn - early winter, when the weather outside is not very pleasant. During the flowering period, it is better to lower the temperature to 14 - 16 degrees Celsius. Maintaining heat at this time can shorten the flowering time.

Diseases and pests

With a sharp change in temperature conditions or a long drought, the branches lose their lower leaves. Excess moisture and insufficient drainage lead to the development of putrefactive manifestations - at this time, the plants begin to shed leaves, stems and petioles of leaves turn black. Pedilanthus does not bloom if the substrate is too dry, there is a lack of lighting and the winter dormancy period is not observed. With insufficient watering, the foliage loses turgor - it becomes sluggish and falls off. If the flower is left at room temperature in winter and artificial lighting is not used, it will form weak and elongated shoots. Such specimens are brought into a cool room so that they slow down their development, or artificially illuminated.

The edges of the leaf blades become dry and brown when there is insufficient air humidity. Similar symptoms may indicate that the plants have been exposed to direct sunlight for a long time. Fungal diseases appear in plants that are kept in too cool conditions with high air humidity combined with insufficient air movement. Leaf blades become smaller when there is a lack of light or insufficient nutrients in the substrate. 

The bush will not bloom in a spacious pot and will delay its development until the root system occupies all the space in the pot. Leaf blades curl, and dry brown spots form on the tips of the leaves if the content is too warm. With a lack of light or excess nitrogen in the substrate, the leaves of variegated varieties can simply turn green.

Spider mites, mealybugs, whiteflies, aphids. 

Soil 

Prefers well-drained soils with plenty of nutrients. Adapts well to most soil types, even to nutrient-poor substrates. The soil for keeping pedilanthus should not only allow moisture to pass through well, but should also allow the root system to breathe, allowing air to pass through. The growing mixture can be made up of components such as peat, light turf and leaf soil. To improve drainage, a sufficient amount of river sand or perlite and vermiculite is mixed into the soil.

Watering 

The frequency of watering for different species should be selected individually - if plants with a small number of leaves are naturally adapted to be kept in dry conditions, then bushes densely covered with foliage cannot tolerate drought and need regular watering. Water moderately in spring and summer - the substrate should dry to a depth of about 5 cm before each subsequent watering. 

Pedilanthus does not like either flooding or prolonged drying of the substrate. In autumn, reduce the frequency of watering in accordance with the temperature - the need for the next watering can be judged by drooping leaf blades. Do not allow the soil to dry out completely during the winter months. Water with well-settled tap water or melt and rain water. Softened filtered or bottled drinking water is also suitable for irrigation.

Transplant 

Adult specimens need to be replanted approximately every 3-5 years. For growing, it is advisable to use clay pots, the walls of which are able to pass moisture and air. Young seedlings can be replanted every year as their root system develops and they need more and more space for growth. The need for another transplant will be indicated by the tips of the roots that will appear in the drainage holes of the pot. Pedilanthus feels good in slightly cramped conditions and you should not immediately offer it a large pot - the diameter is increased gradually - by 2-3 cm per year. When planted in a large container, succulents can rot - excess soil, not used by the roots, will accumulate excess moisture and turn sour.

To grow, select stable pots with large drainage holes at the bottom. Before planting, a sufficient layer of drainage material is placed on the bottom of the pots - crushed polystyrene foam, expanded clay or clay shards. You can also use small river pebbles as drainage. The drainage layer can reach up to 1/5 or even 1/4 of the height of the pot. A layer of soil is poured onto the drainage and the flower is placed in the center of the pot. If the condition of the plant does not cause concern and it looks healthy, then transshipment is used - the flower is moved to a new container without destroying the earthen lump. The root system is quite fragile and is easily damaged during transplantation. If there are signs of root rot, then the plant is freed from the old soil, the root system is inspected and rotten and old roots are cut off with a sharp knife. 

After pruning, the root tips are treated with crushed coal powder or ash and left to dry in the open air for 2-3 hours. Such specimens are planted only in a new substrate, since harmful microorganisms could have survived in the old one. The first watering should be postponed for 3-5 days. The bush is placed in a new pot at the same depth at which it was previously located, and they begin to sprinkle it with fresh soil mixture. After the soil fills the pot almost to its full height (its surface should not reach the edges by 1-2 cm), it is compacted with fingertips. After transplanting, the pots are placed in a place protected from direct sunlight for a week and watering is limited to 3-4 days.

During this time, the root system will have time to heal small wounds received during transplantation. You should also not feed transplanted specimens - wait 3-4 weeks before feeding. The plants will have enough of the nutrients that are already in the fresh soil. Flowering bushes should not be replanted - they will suffer for a long time after this procedure. After purchase, the flower is kept at home for a week so that it gets used to the new conditions, and then replanted into a new substrate. If replanting is difficult due to the large size of the plant, then every spring the top layer of the substrate 5-7 cm thick is replaced with fresh soil.

Feeding 

From spring to autumn, feed with water-soluble complex fertilizers monthly. You can use fertilizers for succulents for fertilizing. Fertilizing is carried out 2 times a month, diluting fertilizers to half the dose recommended on the package. During the dormant period, feeding is stopped and resumed only in the spring, when the flower produces new leaves or shoots. 

Pedilanthus in a pot has a limited feeding area and will respond to proper feeding by producing abundant greenery. Fertilizers should have a minimum nitrogen content - too much of it makes the plants weak and susceptible to rot. In general, a flower is more likely to tolerate a lack of nutrients than an excess. Fertilizers are applied only to the moist substrate, immediately after watering. If a high concentration of nutrient solution gets on the roots in dry soil, it can cause a chemical burn.

Growing temperature

During the growth period, pedilanthus is kept in a temperature range from 22 to 24 ° C. The flower is heat-loving, but with the onset of intense summer heat it can suffer - increase air humidity and frequency of watering during this period. In winter, a period of rest begins and the temperature is reduced to 16 °C. Do not expose representatives of this genus to temperatures below 12 °C. During the period of rest, when the plant is kept cool, its development slows down, which means that in conditions of insufficient lighting, the bush will not form thin and elongated shoots. In addition, a cool winter will promote the formation of flower buds and the bushes will decorate themselves with flowers in the warm season.

Lighting

Pedilanthus prefers well-lit places with plenty of reflected sunlight. Direct sunlight can fall on the leaves and shoots in the morning and evening, for 2-3 hours daily. During the day, especially in spring and summer, it should be shaded from direct sunlight. When grown in partial shade, the bush will become lanky. Variegated varieties fade with insufficient light, and their leaves can turn green. The most optimal for keeping will be the windowsills of eastern or western windows. When kept in the north, artificial lighting with phytolamps or fluorescent lamps will be required. When growing on a southern window, I cover the plants from the sun with a thin curtain or place them in the back of the room. Every couple of weeks, I turn the flowerpot a quarter of a turn around its own axis so that the bush remains thick and symmetrical and does not lean towards the light source.

Spraying 

It easily tolerates dry air in heated rooms and can develop without additional atmospheric humidification. It is worth increasing the air humidity only for varieties with a large number of leaves and only in the warm season. In spring and summer, you can spray the leaves with water at room temperature, settled for 24 hours. Spraying should be done in the first half of the day - so the water droplets have time to evaporate from the plant before dark. When spraying, make sure that moisture does not get on the flowers and buds - cover them with your hand during the procedure. You can place a room humidifier or any container with water next to the pot, which will also increase the air humidity well.

If you place several plants in a limited space, they will be able to humidify the air on their own by evaporating water from the surface of the leaf blades. Before spraying or using a humidifier, make sure that there are no open or unhealed wounds on the flower - water getting on their surface can cause rotting. Plants react negatively to the effects of cold drafts - when ventilating in the winter months, take the flower to another room, otherwise it may shed some of its leaves. The bush does not like polluted atmosphere - do not place it in rooms with tobacco smoke or in the kitchen, where the gas stove is often burning. Ventilate the room where the pot is - the flower will appreciate good air movement.

Purpose

Valuable decorative foliage plant.

Note

All parts of the bush contain poisonous milky juice, which causes contact dermatitis when it gets on the skin of your hands. Keep the plant away from children and pets and protect your hands with gloves when working. If the juice gets on your skin, rinse it thoroughly under running water. If ingested, any part of the pedilanthus causes symptoms of poisoning, such as diarrhea and vomiting. The bushes are able to clean the atmosphere of living spaces from toxic substances, and also have an antiseptic effect. Interestingly, some species can change the color of their leaf blades depending on the conditions of maintenance and the stage of development - for example, when exposed to direct sunlight, the edges of the leaves acquire a bright pink hue. Similar changes can occur in the fall - before flowering. The plant got its name due to the similarity of the flowers to women's shoes - translated from Greek, it sounds like this - "flower - shoe".

Varieties:

Pedilanthus Tithymaloid

Evergreen perennial succulents, reaching a height of 40 cm to 3 m, have thick, slightly curved leaf nodes, succulent shoots, abundantly branched at the base. The leaves are alternate, sessile, simple, oblong-lanceolate, reaching 10 cm in length. During the flowering period, small inflorescences are formed at the tops of the shoots - brushes with pink flowers. Currently, numerous variegated variants of the plant with white, light green, and cream stripes along the edges of the leaf blades have been developed.