Episcia

Family. Gesneriaceae.

Origin: Tropics of America. 

Description. Episcia is a small but very diverse genus in appearance, including both epiphytic and terrestrial species.

The plant has creeping rhizomes underground - modified shoots.

The stems are erect, branched or creeping, up to 50 cm long. When in contact with the ground, the stems can take root.

The leaves are simple, broadly lanceolate, with pronounced veins, covered with sparse pubescence. The edges of the leaf blades often have small teeth. The color of the leaves is very diverse and includes green, pink, purple, white, brown and bluish shades. In addition, there is a whole network of veins on the leaf blades that can reflect the sun's rays, and then the leaves can have a pink or silvery sheen.

The flowers are funnel-shaped, single, small, but very effective, white, red, pink, yellow. Their rounded petals often have a lacy fringe along the edges. The buds reach 3 cm in length and 1.5 cm in diameter.

Height. It grows very quickly, but does not exceed 20 cm in height. The length of the shoots can reach 30 - 60 cm.

Care at home

Reproduction, growing from a leaf 

Episcia is propagated by air layering, division during transplantation, babies, leaf, stem and apical cuttings, which are extremely easy to root in loose, nutritious soil. You can also grow episcia from seeds.

Cuttings root successfully in any container with water. 

1. A section of stem about 10 cm long with 2-3 internodes is separated from the mother bushes.
2. The bases of the cuttings can be treated with growth hormones, but this is not a mandatory condition.
3. The cuttings are immersed in water by 1-2 cm, the liquid is changed every 4-5 days.
4. To disinfect the water, you can add a tablet of activated carbon.

The seedlings are planted in the ground when roots about 1 cm long form on the bottom. After planting, the bushes will slow down their development a little - their root system at this time adapts to the new conditions.

If you keep the cuttings in a well-lit, warm (about 25 degrees Celsius) place without direct sunlight, the roots can appear within 7-10 days.

Successful rooting is facilitated by maintaining high air humidity - for this, the cuttings are covered with glass or transparent plastic. A transparent plastic bag can be used as a shelter, but it is necessary to ensure that the film does not come into contact with the surface of the leaves.

The successful completion of the rooting process can be judged by the young leaves that have appeared.

As the bushes develop, they are first planted in small cups, and then, when transplanting, the size of the pot is gradually increased by about 2 cm.

You can make air layers. Creeping stems are able to root on their own when in contact with the soil - new roots quickly appear in the leaf nodes.

Adult specimens form tendrils on which daughter rosettes are located. Leaf rosettes can be separated when they form their own root system, or dug into the substrate, in a small cup, until roots appear. The digging depth should be 2 - 3 cm.

Daughter rosettes successfully root in water.

Small leaf rosettes also appear from underground rhizomes - shoots in the substrate.

Adult bushes can be divided into 2-3 parts during transplantation, thereby rejuvenating them. Make sure that each part obtained as a result of division receives its own root system and several leaves.

The wound surface formed during division is sprinkled with wood ash or coal powder for disinfection and drying.

Generative propagation by seeds is possible, but when using it, it is worth remembering that specimens obtained from seeds may not inherit all the attractive qualities of the mother plants.

1. Sowing of seeds is carried out in spring, using a plastic container with a lid filled with nutritious and loose soil based on peat.
2. The bottom of the container should have drainage holes and a good layer of drainage material.
3. The seeds are simply placed on the surface of the earth without covering them with soil.
4. The substrate is thoroughly moistened with warm water using a fine spray bottle, keeping it evenly moist.
5. After sowing, the container is closed and placed in a warm, well-lit place without access to direct sunlight. 

From time to time the greenhouse is opened and the crops are aired. When the first sprouts appear (usually it takes about 3-4 weeks), the cover is removed completely.

The seedlings are picked when 2-3 leaf blades appear on each bush.

7-10 days after picking, you can feed them for the first time with fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. For such feeding, the solution should be diluted to a very weak concentration.

Since young bushes grow quite slowly, this method of propagation is suitable for patient gardeners who are interested in observing the development of the plant from the very beginning.

The most difficult and labor-intensive method of propagation is by leaf.

1. The leaf stalk is separated from the adult bush.
2. Dry the cut site in the open air for a couple of hours.
3. The base of the petiole is dusted with growth hormones mixed with crushed coal.
4. For rooting, place the cutting at a depth of 1.5 - 2 cm in a moist, nutritious substrate in spring or summer.
5. The cutting is covered with plastic or glass to create a greenhouse effect and placed in a warm place with a temperature of 22 - 25 degrees Celsius. 

How to care

Episcia can hardly be recommended to novice gardeners, as it requires high air humidity.

Stems that are too long should be cut off after flowering. 

When carrying out sanitary pruning, remove all dead leaves and wilting buds to maintain an attractive appearance and prevent the spread of fungal diseases. Periodically, it is worth carrying out corrective pruning, removing overgrown, carelessly protruding stems.

Pruning is carried out with a sharp sterile knife or pruning shears.

The tips of young shoots are pinched to stimulate the formation of lateral branches.

From time to time, the leaf blades should be cleaned of accumulated dust using a very soft and dry brush.

Do not place the pot near heating systems - hot and dry air will cause the leaf blades to dry out, and after a while, if the plant is in such conditions, it may even die.

Since it is not always possible to maintain a high level of air humidity in living quarters, episcia is often grown in special greenhouses or on display cases.

The flower can be taken outside only in consistently warm weather.

When it blooms 

The time and duration of flowering depend on the specific variety. The most abundant flowering will be during all summer months, but individual buds can decorate the shoots at other times of the year.

If you keep the bush in slightly cramped conditions, the flowering will be more lush.

With proper care, the flowering period can last for several months.

Soil 

Loose soil that allows moisture and air to pass through well.

A nutrient mixture based on peat with the addition of organic matter, small pieces of charcoal and well-rotted manure is suitable. For loosening and additional nutrition, leaf and turf soil is added to the mixture, and sphagnum moss is added to increase moisture capacity. To improve drainage, river sand or perlite is mixed into the substrate.

The soil for growing episcia should have a neutral or slightly acidic pH reaction.

The flower is very demanding of the soil quality - it should not only have good drainage, but also allow the roots to breathe.

Ready-made soil for violets and Saintpaulias, sold in stores, is suitable for all representatives of the Gesneriaceae family.

Diseases and pests 

• With prolonged exposure to direct sunlight during the daytime, the color of the leaves fades.
• Overwatering during the cold season and insufficient drainage lead to rot.
• Watering with cold water leads to the appearance of unsightly large brown spots on the leaf blades.
• Yellowing of leaves occurs as a result of exposure to direct sunlight or an excess of nutrients in the soil.
• Low humidity will also contribute to yellowing of leaves. 
• Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight may cause leaf drop.
• Excess nitrogen leads to abundant growth of green mass to the detriment of bud formation.
• Fungal diseases appear when the air humidity is high and there is insufficient air movement. Keeping the flower too cold will contribute to the growth of symptoms. 
• Episcia will not bloom when grown in the shade or when it lacks nutrition.
• If there is not enough light, the bushes will be loose and elongated, the leaf petioles will become long and the leaf blades will become small, the leaf blades may even lose their attractive color.
• Leaves lose turgor and curl when exposed to direct sunlight for a long time.
• When the soil dries out, the leaves lose turgor and the buds stop forming. 
• The onset of flowering may be delayed if the plant is planted in a pot that is too large - until the root system has mastered the entire volume of the substrate, buds will not form.
• Planting in a container that is too large will also encourage rot, as the large volume of soil will collect excess moisture when watered.
• If the flower is kept in too cold an environment, buds will not form.
• The tips of the leaf blades become dry when there is insufficient air humidity.
• If water drops fall on the leaves and stems during irrigation, this can cause rot. 

Pests that may attack the flower include aphids, whiteflies, scale insects, mealybugs, cyclamen mites, root nematodes and thrips.

Transplantation 

Replanting is carried out annually, at the beginning of spring. Episcia grows quickly and fills the entire volume of the pot.

Young specimens can be replanted 2-3 times a year as they grow into larger pots. The need for another replanting will be indicated by the tips of the roots appearing on the surface of the soil or in the drainage holes of the pot.

When replanting, you can trim the roots by 1/3 of their length. 

For growing, it is better to choose wide and shallow bowls with large drainage holes, since the root system is located close to the surface of the substrate.

The diameter of the pot for an adult leaf rosette can be about 20 cm.

Before planting, a generous layer of drainage material is placed on the bottom of the pots, which can be expanded clay, clay shards or brick fragments. Crushed foam has also proven itself as a good drainage material.

The drainage is covered with a small layer of fresh soil.

The bushes can be transplanted by transshipment, preserving the root ball - in this case, the flowers tolerate movement more easily and adapt faster to new living conditions.

If there are signs of damage to the root system by rot, then it will be necessary to transplant with a complete replacement of the substrate. When transplanting, the root system is cleaned of old soil, disassembled and carefully inspected.

If necessary, trim off any diseased or rotten roots with sharp, sterile pruning shears. Plant such specimens only in fresh potting mix, in new or disinfected pots.

1. The flower is placed in a new pot at the same depth at which it was in the previous container and covered with soil.
2. After planting, the soil is lightly compacted and the plants are watered.
3. If after watering the soil has settled and voids have formed, they are filled with fresh soil mixture.
4. After transplanting, do not allow shoots and leaves to be exposed to direct sunlight for a week - this will only increase stress.
5. The first feeding is carried out 2-3 weeks after transplantation.

Flowering bushes should not be replanted - wait until flowering has finished.

To make the plants look thicker, you can plant 2-3 seedlings in one pot.

Watering 

In spring and summer, water so that the top layer of soil, 1–2 cm thick, dries out between waterings.

Reduce the frequency of watering slightly in the winter months; if the room temperature is slightly below normal, the substrate can be dried to a third of the height of the pot.

Make sure that after watering, excess moisture does not remain in the tray - remove it a few minutes after watering.

Do not use cold water for watering. 

Watering is carried out using a watering can with a narrow and long spout, supplying water along the edge of the pot, trying not to get on the leaves and buds.

Episcia will respond well to bottom watering using the immersion method. The pot is lowered for several minutes into a large container with warm water and excess moisture is allowed to drain through the drainage holes.

For watering, use only water that has been well settled for 24 hours.

Every month, you can add a few grains of citric acid or drops of lemon juice to the water for watering to soften and acidify it.

Lighting

Plants should receive several hours of direct sunlight daily - morning and evening. In spring and summer, episcia is shaded from the scorching rays during the daytime.

When there is a lack of natural light, artificial lighting with fluorescent lamps is successfully used. 

In autumn and early winter, you can place the pots on the most illuminated windowsills - during this period of time, the sun rarely breaks through the clouds and its activity is low.

The most convenient places will be the windowsills of western or eastern windows. When kept on the south side, the pot should be slightly deepened into the room or shaded with a light curtain, and when growing in the north, arrange additional artificial lighting.

For a healthy appearance and abundant flowering, a long daylight period of 12-14 hours per day is necessary.

From time to time, turn the flower pot in different directions towards the light source so that the bush does not stretch towards its source and develops symmetrically.

Fertilizing

Since episcia does not have a pronounced dormant period, it is fed throughout the year.

Top dressing is carried out twice a month with liquid balanced fertilizers in half concentration. For flowering to occur, it is important that the fertilizers contain elements such as potassium and phosphorus. 

For feeding, you can use both mineral fertilizers for flowering plants and organic matter. In the form of organic matter, humus and humus, well-rotted manure or a very weak solution of bird droppings are used.

Add nutrients after abundant watering, avoiding the concentrated solution getting on the root system in dry soil. 

Incorrectly applied fertilizing can lead to chemical burns.

Sick or recently transplanted specimens should not be fed.

In autumn and winter, the frequency of feeding can be reduced to once a month - at this time, the plants slow down their development and rarely bloom. Regular feeding is resumed in the spring, with the appearance of the first signs of new growth.

Episcia will rather suffer a little hunger than an excess of nutrients in the substrate.

Temperature

Representatives of this genus are thermophilic and can be grown at temperatures from 20 to 24° C all year round. It is advisable to lower the temperature at night to 18° C.

When kept in a cool place, the flowering period is extended, the overall development of the bush slows down. Bushes should not be exposed to temperatures below 15 ° C.

As the temperature rises, the frequency of watering and air humidity should also be increased. Abrupt changes in temperature should not be allowed - plants do not like this.

Spraying 

High humidity is required for growing - at least 60 percent relative humidity.

Place the pot on a tray with wet pebbles, use a room humidifier. When growing on a tray, make sure that the bottom of the pot does not come into direct contact with the surface of the water.

To increase humidity, you can surround the pot with a layer of wet sphagnum moss. Do not spray the pubescent leaves - the bristles retain moisture, which can lead to rotting.

Any container with water placed in close proximity to the flower will increase the humidity well.

Simply placing several plants in a limited space can also increase the humidity.

Place the episcia in a well-ventilated room with a constant flow of air, but without cold drafts. Take the pots to another room when airing in the winter months and do not place them under the air conditioner.

The undemanding nature of lighting and the need for high air humidity allow you to place episcia in the kitchen or in a well-lit bathroom.

Purpose

A magnificent ornamental foliage representative of flora. Many species are suitable for growing in hanging baskets as ampelous flowers.

Episcia can be grown as a groundcover flower at the foot of large trees or shrubs.

Note

Sometimes the bush bares the lower part of the stems - such specimens become unattractive and are replaced with young seedlings.

Episcia does not tolerate polluted atmosphere, and if there is tobacco smoke in the room, it is better to move the pot to another place.

The flower constantly throws out tendrils, at the ends of which there are leaf rosettes. In close proximity to other plants, leaf rosettes can take root in neighboring pots.

Varieties:

Episcia Emerald Velvet

Beautiful herbaceous plants that can be safely classified as both decorative foliage and flowering. The bushes have compact sizes and oval or heart-shaped, velvety pubescent leaves. The main shade of the leaf blades is dark green, but the veins are often highlighted in a lighter color. During the flowering period, the plant forms delicate lilac or bluish flowers with five rounded petals and a long flower tube. 

Episcia Chocolate soldier

Interesting plants with heart-shaped, glossy leaves, painted in various shades of brown. Young, newly emerged leaves have the darkest, richest shade, while adult leaves fade and acquire a burgundy or light chocolate color. In the warm season, the bushes form bright orange, pink or red flowers with long flower tubes, which contrast perfectly with the leaves.

Episcia lilacina

Perennial plants with attractive, oblong-lanceolate, pubescent leaves. The main shade of the leaf blades is dark green, the central part of the leaves is painted in a light green, almost white shade. The lateral leaf veins, extending from the central one, are green. Unlike most episcias, which bloom with red or orange flowers, this variety has soft blue or lilac flowers. 

Episcia dianthiflora or alsobia

Alsobia carnationiflora has white tubular flowers with strongly jagged petal edges. Sometimes the white flowers of this species are covered with attractive pink "freckles".