Aeschinanthus

Family. Gesneriaceae.

Origin: Malaysia, India, China.

Description. Aeschinanthus is a large genus of plants, consisting of about 140 evergreen subshrubs. Most aeschinanthus grow in nature as epiphytes  - on the trunks of large trees.

The stems are erect or drooping, long, densely covered with pairs of glossy dark green leaves.

The leaves are lanceolate, fleshy, pointed, up to 10 cm long, located on very short petioles.

Flowers are long, tubular, single or collected in small inflorescences. Flower color includes red, yellow, orange, burgundy shades. Flowers and leaves are often covered with very short white fluff.

As the plants flower, they will produce long, straight seed pods covered in light fluff.

Height. The stems of the plants reach 60 cm in length. The plants develop quite quickly.

Aeschinanthus care at home

Reproduction 

By dividing large specimens in spring during transplantation. Each division should have 2-3 leaves and a well-developed root system.

The plants are divided with pruning shears, and the wound surface formed as a result of division is sprinkled with sulfur powder or finely ground charcoal for drying and disinfection.

The divisions are planted 2-3 pieces in separate pots and placed in a warm place, protected from direct sunlight.

For several days, the seedlings can be covered from above with a transparent plastic cap, glass or a plastic bag to maintain high air humidity.

Vegetative propagation is carried out using semi-mature stem or leaf cuttings. 

1. Stem cuttings are separated from the mother plant in spring or summer so that each cutting has 5-6 leaves and is about 10 cm long.
2. The lower leaves are torn off from the cuttings to reduce moisture loss.
3. The bases of the cuttings are dusted with powders for root formation.
4. For planting, prepare disposable plastic cups with drainage holes in the bottom.
5. The lower end of the cuttings is immersed 1 - 2 cm into a well-moistened mixture of peat and sand. 
6. The cuttings are covered from above with transparent polyethylene, glass or a plastic lid to maintain a high level of air humidity. The condensate accumulated under the cover is removed promptly, since droplets of water falling on the plants will contribute to the development of rot.
7. The container with plants is placed in a warm place protected from direct sunlight with a temperature of 23 - 27° C.

Do not use flowering shoots for propagation or take cuttings from flowering plants. 

 After about 2-3 weeks from rooting, new leaves will appear on the cuttings - this means that small roots have already formed under the surface of the soil.

After another 2-3 weeks, the rooted cuttings are transplanted into small pots, placing 2-3 sprouts in each - this way the aeschinanthus bushes will appear more lush.  

Cuttings root most successfully using bottom heating.

Rooting occurs successfully in a simple glass of water:

1. The cuttings are sprayed with growth hormones and immersed in water.
2. To disinfect the liquid, a tablet of activated carbon is added to it.
3. Every 5-6 days the water is changed to fresh water.
4. When each cutting has roots reaching 1 - 2 cm, it is planted in a pot.

When planted in the ground, such plants lag slightly in development, as their root system gets used to new living conditions. 

Leaf cuttings are separated from an adult bush with a heel - a piece of stem with a bud. Rooting is carried out in a wet mixture consisting of peat and sand under a plastic or glass cover.

If kept warm and with proper lighting, a young shoot will appear at the base of the leaf cutting 1 to 1.5 months after rooting. 

You can try to grow aeschinanthus from seeds, but this process will take a little longer.

1. Sowing of seeds is carried out in spring.
2. For planting, prepare a transparent container with a lid, filled with nutritious and loose substrate.
3. At the bottom of the container, it is worth making fairly large drainage holes and laying a low drainage layer.
4. The seeds are spread over the surface of the soil and lightly pressed into its surface, without covering them with a layer of soil on top.
5. The crops are thoroughly moistened with warm water using a spray bottle and placed in a well-lit, warm place, protected from direct sunlight.
6. The seedlings are covered with a plastic lid on top to create a greenhouse effect. 

The cover is removed daily and the seedlings are aired, gradually increasing the airing time. The condensation that appears on the surface of the cover is also removed. When the first sprouts appear, the cover is removed completely.

Young plants are watered only through the tray, since moisture getting on the tender shoots can lead to rot.

When each plant can boast 2-3 true leaf blades, picking is carried out. When picking, the bushes are planted in separate containers, carrying out this procedure as carefully as possible. 

The first buds will adorn plants obtained from seeds at the age of 1.5 - 2 years.

When it blooms 

Aeschinanthus blooms in summer, from June to September. Individual flower buds may appear at any time of the year. For flowering to occur, plants must be properly cared for and kept in suitable conditions.

To ensure abundant bud formation, it is important to maintain a fairly dry and cool dormant period during the winter months.

Flowers are formed only on young shoots - branches of the second and third year of life will not form flower stalks. 

How to care for aeschinanthus 

Aeschinanthus is undemanding and is well suited for beginning flower lovers.

To maintain a beautiful compact shape, trim off too long shoots. Trim before flowering or immediately after it ends.

During sanitary pruning, remove wilting flowers and weak, diseased branches.  Only use sharp, sterile tools for pruning, such as pruning shears or a knife.

Aeschinanus tolerates pruning easily and even removing 1/3 of the flower's growth will not make it suffer. Without pruning, the plants become untidy and expose the lower part of the stems.

From time to time,  young shoots are pinched to form lateral branches - this will make the plants lush and thick.

With the help of pruning, you can grow aeschinanthus not only as an ampelous plant, but also make it an attractive flowering bush with erect stems. 

Avoid placing the pot in close proximity to heat sources during cold weather and under air conditioning during summer months.

In warm months, you can take the flower out into the fresh air. Before leaving the plant in the open air, it is worth gradually accustoming it to new conditions - take the pot with the flower outside during the day for 1 - 2 hours and then bring it into the house. Over the course of a week, gradually increase the time spent outdoors.

When placing the plant outdoors, it is worth protecting it from strong gusts of wind, heavy rainfall and direct sunlight. 

You should not change the location of flowering plants - they may drop their buds. 

In the winter months, if the flower is on a fairly cool windowsill, then it is worth placing a sheet of insulation under the pot, since the root system of the flower does not like hypothermia.

When used for vertical gardening, plants will need support for growth. Bamboo stems or special flower supports sold in stores can be used as support.

It is worth attaching the stems to the support when they are young and can be easily bent. The flower will not climb the support on its own.

If plants are grown on rounded supports, the stems should be wrapped around the support counterclockwise.

Do not place Aeschynans in corridors and passages - adult branches of plants easily break off.

Periodically, it is worth wiping the glossy leaves of the flower from dust using a damp sponge.

Transplantation 

Aeschinanthus does not like frequent replanting, so they are carried out when necessary - when the plants become frankly cramped in the pot.

Young bushes tolerate transplantation, but with age it becomes more and more difficult.  Young plants are transplanted every year, while adult bushes can be transplanted once every 2-3 years. 

When planting in fresh soil, the planting depth should be observed, and instead of transplanting, it is better to use careful transshipment. 

Young bushes will need periodic replanting - their root system develops and takes up more and more space. Each time such plants are replanted, the diameter of the pot is increased by 2 - 3 cm.

You can judge that the flower's pot has become too small by the tips of its roots appearing in the drainage holes of the container.

The best time to repot is when new growth begins in the spring.

To grow the flower, select pots with large drainage holes.  The shape of the pot should be wide rather than deep.

The bush develops well in slightly cramped conditions - flowering in this case will be more abundant. Remember that planting in too large pots will delay the onset of flowering, since the first buds will appear when the root system has mastered all the space of the pot. Spacious containers will contribute to the occurrence of root rot - an excess amount of soil will retain moisture after watering.

1. A fairly high drainage layer is placed on the bottom of the pots. Such materials as expanded clay, pieces of foam plastic, fragments of clay pots, broken bricks can be used as drainage.  
2. A small layer of soil for the flower is poured onto the drainage.
3. Place the plant in the center of the pot. If possible, use transshipment to move the aeschinanthus - transfer it to a new container together with the old lump of earth, without destroying it. Transshipped plants adapt to new conditions faster and start growing.
4. Along the perimeter of the pot, the voids between the walls and the earth lump are filled with fresh soil mixture and the walls of the pot are lightly tapped so that the substrate fills all the empty spaces. You can even lightly tamp the soil with your fingertips.
5. After transshipment, the flower is placed in a place protected from sunlight and watered.
6. If the soil has settled after watering, add the required amount of fresh mixture.

Start feeding the flower a couple of weeks after transplantation - all this time it will have enough of the nutrients that are already in the fresh substrate. Earlier feeding can harm the root system. Since the roots could have received even minor damage during transplantation, then the chemical solution getting on them will cause various tissue damage.

Plants purchased from a flower shop will also need to be replanted - they are planted in fresh nutrient substrate about a couple of weeks after purchase. It is not recommended to replant immediately, since the flower needs time to adapt to new conditions and does not need additional stress during this period.

Do not transplant flowering plants - wait until flowering has finished.

Diseases and pests 

• Aeschinanthus does not bloom  in poor lighting and without a dormant period.
• When the soil dries out, plants shed their buds and some of their leaves.
• Poor drainage, heavy watering during the cold season, stagnant water in the pan causes rot.
• The edges of the leaves dry out when the air humidity is low.
• Exposure of the flower's leaves to direct sunlight during the day can cause sunburn.
• Leaf blades fall off when kept too cold.
• The flower sheds its buds when the soil in the pot dries out.
• The onset of flowering will also be hindered by a lack of nutrients in the soil. 
• Leaves turn yellow and fall off when overwatered. 
• Watering with cold water will make the flower sick - small brown spots will appear on the surface of its leaves.
• The tips of the leaves become dry and brown when the air humidity is insufficient and the temperature is too high.
• The leaf blades curl if the flower is too close to heating devices.
• Fungal diseases appear when the conditions are too cold and damp, especially if there is insufficient ventilation - this could be powdery mildew or gray mold.
• The flower slows down its development, and young leaf blades become small due to a lack of fertilizers. 

Among the harmful insects on the flower, you can notice aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects.

Soil 

A soil mixture consisting of well-sterilized humus, peat, sphagnum, vermiculite or perlite and limestone with a slightly acidic pH is suitable for growing aeschinanthus. Adding a small amount of sphagnum moss to the substrate will increase its moisture capacity.

The soil should allow air to easily reach the roots of the plant and have good drainage.

The flower loves nutrient-rich soils with a high organic content. Adding pine bark and small pieces of charcoal will make the substrate looser and enrich it with nutrients. 

Watering 

Water sparingly but regularly in spring and summer, drying the top layer of soil before each subsequent watering. During spring and summer, the top layer of the substrate, 2-3 cm thick, should dry out between waterings.

In autumn, the frequency of watering gradually begins to decrease. If the room temperature is lowered in the winter months, then reduce watering to a minimum, simply protecting the soil from drying out completely at this time.

Resume regular watering in the spring, gradually increasing the amount of water in the substrate. 

Water your plants only with well-settled tap water or filtered and bottled drinking water.  The water should also be at room temperature or slightly above it.

You can use rainwater for irrigation, but it must be collected far outside the city.

Excess water that appears in the tray after watering is drained after a few minutes.

Once a month, you can add a few drops of lemon juice or citric acid grains to the water for irrigation.

You can also soften water for irrigation using peat. I place a cloth bag with peat in a vessel with water and let the water settle for 1-2 days.

Temperature for growing aeschinanthus

The plant can be kept all year round at a normal room temperature within the range of 18 - 23° C, but for abundant flowering the plant should rest during the winter period.

In spring and summer, when the flower is actively developing and forming buds, it should be provided with a warm room with a temperature of 20 to 25 ° C.

In winter, when the aeschinanthus is resting, place it in a cool room with a temperature of 15 - 18° C. The cool temperature will promote the formation of flower buds.

When the bushes begin to form young leaves in the spring and decorate themselves with buds, gradually increase the temperature to 20 degrees Celsius or more.

Aeschinanthus do not like sudden changes in temperature - accustom the plants to any changes gradually. 

You should not expose the bushes to temperatures below 13  ° C - they will begin to lose leaves and may even die.

Lighting

A brightly lit place without direct sunlight. Short-term exposure to sunlight early in the morning or late in the evening is acceptable. Aeschynanthus grows well in partial shade, but flowering will be more sparse.

For abundant flowering, it is very important to organize artificial additional lighting in December, increasing the length of daylight hours. Fluorescent daylight lamps or specially designed phytolamps are used for additional lighting.

The most suitable places for growing the flower will be the windowsills of eastern or western windows.

What to feed

Aeschinanthus is fed with complex mineral fertilizers every 2 weeks from spring to autumn. In autumn and winter, feeding is stopped and resumed only with the beginning of new growth, in spring.

For fertilizing, it is advisable to use a weak solution, diluting the fertilizer to half the dose recommended on the package. 

Fertilizers are added only after abundant watering, into the important substrate. Remember that getting too concentrated solution on the root system of a flower in dry soil can provoke the appearance of a chemical burn. 

The plant responds well to foliar feeding, when the nutrient solution is applied directly to the leaves.

Spraying 

When the room temperature rises, you should also increase the air humidity using a tray with wet pebbles or a room humidifier. When growing on a tray, pay attention to the fact that the surface of the water should not directly touch the bottom of the pot.

If necessary, you can spray the air around the bush from a fine spray bottle using water at room temperature. Drops of moisture should not fall on flowers and buds - cover them with your hand.

Make sure that wet leaves are not exposed to direct sunlight - water acts as a lens and enhances the effect of the sun.

Do not use tap water for spraying, as it will leave unsightly whitish spots on the surface of the leaf blades.

To increase the air humidity, it is enough to place several fairly large plants in a limited area - they will evaporate water from the surface of their leaves.

In autumn and winter, when the plants are kept in cool conditions, the air around them should be dry enough - at this time it is not recommended to spray the plants or use a room humidifier.

Place the flower in a well-ventilated room with good air circulation, but without exposure to cold drafts. When airing in the winter months, take the pot with the eschinanthus to another room.

In summer, you can periodically arrange a warm shower for the plants. In this case, the eschinanthus is placed in the bathroom, the soil in the pot is covered with a plastic bag to prevent it from washing away, and the flower is bathed with water at a temperature of 35 - 40 ° C. After taking water procedures, the plants are left in the bathroom for 20 - 30 minutes so that they have time to enjoy the humid atmosphere of the room.

Purpose

Aeschinanthus with drooping stems, grown as indoor flowers, will look great in a hanging basket. 

Note

This plant can live indoors for many years without any problems, but adult specimens bloom less abundantly.

With age and without pruning, the bush exposes the lower part of the stems and often becomes unsightly. Usually the flower retains its attractiveness for 3-5 years, then it is replaced by a young plant.

Varieties:

Aeschinanthus marmoratus

A valuable ornamental foliage plant with long, flexible, thin, drooping shoots. The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, arranged in opposite pairs, on short petioles. The color of the leaves is interesting - the leaf blades are emerald-green on top, with light streaks, the leaves are painted in a burgundy shade also with streaks on the bottom, when held up to the light, the leaves seem to have watermarks. The flowers are tubular, yellow-orange. 

Aeschinanthus speciosus

Perennial evergreen plants with branched at the base, erect or drooping thin shoots that can reach 3 m in length. The leaves are lanceolate, green, up to 10 cm long, arranged in opposite pairs and collected in whorls of 3, on short petioles. The flowers are bright, yellow-scarlet, tubular, up to 10 cm long, collected in few-flowered inflorescences of 6-20 flowers at the tops of the shoots. 

Aeschinanthus lobbianus

Evergreen plants with thin and very long drooping shoots, repeatedly branched at the base. The leaves are thick, green or blue-green, lanceolate, arranged oppositely. The flowers are bright red or purple, tubular, have an attractive silvery pubescence on the outside, collected in few-flowered inflorescences. 

Aeschinanthus Tricolor

An attractive evergreen ampelous plant with long and thin, drooping shoots. The leaves are thick, green, glossy, lanceolate, reaching only 5 cm in length. The flowers are red, burgundy or brownish, collected in small inflorescences at the tops of the stems, have velvety pubescence.