Lily
Family. Liliaceae.
Homeland. Asia.
Description. Lily is a spectacular perennial herbaceous plant with very elegant, spectacular, large flowers.
The rhizome is a bulb covered with scales. The diameter of the bulbs can vary - from 1 cm to 30 cm in the largest, tallest species.
The leaves are oblong, narrow, dark green, entire. Depending on the variety, the leaf arrangement can be spiral, the leaf blades can be collected in a basal leaf rosette or arranged in whorls.
Most species are divided into Asian and Oriental.
Oriental flowers are larger and more fragrant, while Asian lilies look more modest.
Asian species are more hardy and easy to care for. The plant has a strong, powerful, thick, unbranched stem, densely covered with dark green, oblong-lanceolate leaves.
The flowers are sometimes single, but more often collected in very large inflorescences, 10-20 buds on one shoot.
There are double and simple varieties.
The color of the petals is varied - white, yellow, black, pink, red, two-color. The buds are very large, often funnel-shaped, up to 20 centimeters in diameter each.
After flowering, the plants can form seed pods containing small brown seeds.
Since ancient times, people have valued lilies as a very beautiful decorative flowering plant with very fragrant flowers.
Height. The height is very variable. The largest species reach one and a half meters, dwarf varieties do not exceed 25 centimeters
Planting and care
Purchase of bulbs
When buying in a flower shop, you should pay special attention to the appearance of the planting material - the bulbs should be elastic and strong. There should be no signs of rot or other diseases on their surface and especially on the bottom.
The triangular scales should fit tightly to the surface and have a shiny, smooth surface without damage.
At the bottom of the bulb - at the base - there should be healthy and long roots up to 5 cm long.
If there is any damage or signs of disease, it is better to refuse the purchase. If the bulbs were purchased at the wrong time for planting, they are stored in a cool place, sprinkled with sawdust.
Growing in open ground
Bulbs can be planted in spring or autumn - each method has its advantages and disadvantages.
When planted in spring, the bulbs have enough time to form a luxurious root system. Planting in open ground should be done in April.
The disadvantages of spring planting include the lack of flowering - when planted in May, the flowers do not have time to form.
In the spring, mainly oriental, Asian or tubular lilies are planted.
Autumn planting is carried out in September - in this case, before the onset of frost, the bulbs will be able to get used to new living conditions and have time to take root well. Autumn planting is suitable for any type.
For planting lilies, it is important to choose a well-lit place, protected from strong gusts of wind, which can break tall stems.
Plants should not be placed in lowlands or in places with high soil moisture or close groundwater - this will lead to rotting.
The area is loosened and weeds are removed.
As a pre-planting preparation, the soil is enriched with fertilizers, organic matter is added to it in the form of humus, well-rotted manure, and a small amount of charcoal or ash is mixed in.
In too heavy soils, add river sand in sufficient quantity to improve drainage.
Depending on the planting pattern and varietal characteristics, planting holes are prepared.
The depth of the planting holes depends on the size of the bulb - as a rule, it should be 3-4 times greater than the height of the bulb.
When planting in heavy loams, a greater depth will lead to rot, and when growing in soil with a lot of sand, they can be deepened further.
Asian hybrids and tubular lilies form additional bulbs and stem roots in the underground part of the stem, so sufficient planting depth is important for them for additional nutrition - after all, in this case, a sufficient number of roots appear under the soil surface.
Even for the largest bulbs, the planting depth should not exceed 25-30 cm.
Drainage in the form of river sand is poured into the bottom of the hole in advance.
Before planting, lily bulbs are soaked in a fungicide solution. After soaking, the roots are carefully examined and straightened, dead and badly damaged scales are separated.
If there are rotten or damaged areas, the roots are cut with a sharp knife or pruning shears.
Bulbs with straightened roots are placed on a drainage layer and sprinkled with prepared soil.
After planting, do not immediately water the soil - until the first shoots appear, watering should be limited.
The area can be mulched with straw, mown grass or burnt sawdust. A layer of mulch will prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly from the soil surface and slow down the development of weeds.
For abundant flowering, lilies are fed with mineral fertilizers 2-3 times a year.
To start growth and form green mass, fertilizers with a high nitrogen content are suitable, and to start abundant flowering and maintain the health of the root system - with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. Flowers respond well to the use of organic fertilizers in the form of a slurry of well-rotted mullein.
Watering should only be done in the absence of rain - watering is carried out in the morning or evening with warm water. Drops of moisture falling on leaves and flowers during the day can lead to burns and the appearance of unsightly brown spots.
Between waterings, the top layer of soil should have time to dry out. After flowering, gradually reduce watering - excess moisture at this time will contribute to the appearance of rot.
Wintering in the garden, shelter
In mid-autumn, the stems are cut at a height of 15-20 cm above the soil surface and the area is covered with a layer of soil and mulch in the form of straw, fallen leaves or mown grass.
With the onset of the first frosts, the plants are additionally covered with fallen leaves, spruce branches or non-woven material. The shelter is built on clear, warm days, since the soil surface must remain dry.
Keeping a domestic lily
Forcing
Experienced gardeners can get blooming lilies by any desired date. Blooming occurs as a result of careful care and compliance with certain rules of agricultural technology.
Unfortunately, forcing can be done only once - after this, the rhizomes need to accumulate a supply of nutrients and they are planted in open ground for 1-2 years.
- Planting material is placed in pots, in a nutrient substrate and buried in soil so that the top of the bulb protrudes from the soil. As the shoot grows, soil is added to the pot.
- The plants are watered little by little and placed in a cool place with a temperature of about 13 °C.
- In the first 2 weeks after planting, additional roots are formed underground and the growth of the above-ground part does not occur.
- With the appearance of the first signs of growth, the temperature is gradually increased and by the time the buds form, the plants can be in a room with a temperature of 18-20 ° C.
- If forcing is carried out in autumn and winter, then in order to prevent shoots from stretching due to lack of light, artificial lighting with phytolamps or fluorescent and LED lamps is used. The duration of daylight should be at least 16 hours per day.
- Lilies are fed 2 times a month with mineral fertilizers for flowering plants.
The exact flowering time will depend on the varietal characteristics.
Growing, pruning
Lilies can only be considered as indoor flowers conditionally and can only be placed indoors temporarily, for forcing, as they will bloom only for one season, after which the bulbs are dug up and planted outside.
Withered buds are removed from the plant to maintain an attractive appearance.
Tall shoots should be provided with reliable support, as they can break under the weight of the buds.
In the warm season, the pots should be taken out into the fresh air - into the garden or onto the balcony. The plant will be happy to be in the fresh air if you provide it with shelter from direct sunlight, wind and heavy rainfall. Do not forget to return the flower to the house when the temperature at night drops to zero degrees Celsius.
Do not cut the stem immediately after flowering - the remaining leaf blades on it will supply the bulbs with nutrients until they completely die off. Trim the stems only after the leaves turn brown and dry out.
During and immediately after flowering, the leaf blades at the base of the stems turn yellow and begin to die off - such leaves should be removed.
Transplanting
In the garden, lilies can be grown in the same place for 5 years, an exception to this rule are Asian beauties - they like frequent transplants.
To grow indoor lilies, you will need light, very porous soil that allows moisture and air to pass through. A mixture of leaf humus and sand is suitable for improving drainage.
The planting depth of bulbs when grown indoors will be very different from that observed in open ground.
Bulbs in pots should protrude above the surface of the substrate by the upper quarter of their height. Additionally, the substrate can be added only as the shoot grows so that its top is above the ground.
For growing, use light plastic or unglazed clay pots, since the roots do not like overheating, and sunlight hitting the walls of dark pots will lead to their excessive heating.
- For cultivation, select a pot with large drainage holes and first of all, place a drainage layer on its bottom in the form of broken bricks, river pebbles, fragments of clay pots or pre-purchased expanded clay.
- A small amount of soil is placed on the drainage layer and river sand is poured in a slide in its center.
- Before planting, the bulbs are soaked for half an hour in a weak fungicide solution.
- The bulbs are placed on the sand and sprinkled with soil. A distance of about 3 - 4 cm is maintained between the bulbs; they should not touch the walls of the pot either.
- The root system is covered with soil, which should be constantly added as it grows.
- After planting, place the pot in a warm and well-lit place and start watering it little by little.
- When replanting, it is better to place several bulbs in a pot at once. Planting plants separately will not result in flowers, but will cause abundant growth of daughter bulbs.
Feeding
When grown indoors, feed every two weeks during the period of active growth, that is, in spring and summer. Sometimes feeding is not carried out at all if the bulbs are planned to be planted in open ground next season.
For feeding, use fertilizers for flowering species. After flowering, fertilizing continues, but its frequency is reduced.
In the winter months, plants do not need fertilizing; fertilizing the bush begins in the spring, after the appearance of new shoots.
Fertilizers with a high nitrogen content will contribute to the formation of green mass after planting, and for flowering, you should feed with mineral fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus.
Only well-rotted mullein or horse manure can be used as organic fertilizers; flowers respond well to the addition of wood ash.
Apply the nutrient solution after watering on moist soil, since contact with the root system in dry soil can cause a burn.
Representatives of the genus respond well to foliar feeding, when the nutrient solution is applied directly to the leaf blades.
Temperature
Domestic lilies can be kept at room temperature of 18-22 degrees Celsius, but during the dormant period, the bulbs should be kept in a dry, cool and dark place.
With the onset of intense summer heat, the flowering period is seriously shortened - the buds begin to lose their attractiveness prematurely.
In the winter months, move to a cool place at a temperature of 15-17 degrees Celsius.
After the above-ground part dies off, the bulbs are planted in open ground or stored until spring in a pot with soil at a temperature of about 5 degrees Celsius.
You can take the bulbs out of the substrate, shake them out and dry them, and place them in the refrigerator for storage - in the vegetable compartment, sprinkled with dry sawdust.
Watering
Watering should be plentiful during the period of active growth - spring and summer. The soil should never dry out.
In autumn, watering is reduced enough to almost completely dry the soil. During the winter months, you can simply keep the soil ball from drying out completely by watering once a month or even less often.
For irrigation, use water at room temperature, which has been previously settled for 24 hours. It is also good to use rain or melt moisture for irrigation.
Lighting
The shoots and leaves require several hours of direct sunlight per day, preferably in the morning and evening hours. On hot summer days, it needs to be shaded a little.
In spring and summer, the flower is grown on the southwest or southeast side. In autumn, when solar activity weakens or the weather is often cloudy, you can place the pot on the sunniest side - for example, on the southern windowsill.
Soil
Lilies thrive in well-drained, loose, nutritious soil containing a fairly large amount of organic matter.
A mixture of leaf humus, peat with the addition of coarse sand or perlite to improve drainage is suitable for the flower.
The growing substrate should have a neutral or slightly acidic pH. Growing in alkaline soil leads to the appearance of various diseases.
The soil should easily pass not only water, but also air to the roots.
Spraying
In warmer months, increase the humidity in the room using a room humidifier or a tray with wet pebbles. When placing on a tray, make sure that the surface of the water does not come into direct contact with the bottom of the pot.
You can spray the foliage with well-settled water, but spraying should be done in the first half of the day so that the droplets of moisture have time to evaporate from the surface of the leaves before darkness sets in.
When spraying, it is important to ensure that wet leaf blades are not exposed to direct sunlight - burns may occur. Water should also not get on the leaves and buds - this will dramatically reduce their attractive appearance.
The plant needs good air circulation - place it in a ventilated room without drafts.
Propagation
Lilies reproduce by daughter bulbs that form around the mother bulb, and they can also be propagated by scales of bulbs.
Reproduction by separation of scales
The scales should be separated in the fall, after flowering or in the spring.
From each bulb, 3-5 scales are separated, depending on the size. Remember that if you separate too many scales, then the mother plant will bloom less abundantly next season or will not bloom at all.
In the fall months, the scales are planted in pots for rooting and brought into the house.
Reproduction in the spring months can be done directly in open ground.
- The bush is dug up and several upper scales are separated; the resulting wounds are sprinkled with wood ash or treated with fungicidal preparations.
- The scales are cleaned of any remaining soil, thoroughly washed with running water and moistened with a solution of phytohormones.
- After processing, the scales are slightly dried to avoid rotting.
- When planting in spring, the scales can be immersed in the soil to a depth of 1 - 2 cm.
- The soil is kept evenly moist at all times - under these conditions, a small bulb or even several bulbs will form within a month.
- During the first winter, regardless of the variety, the seedlings will need shelter.
- During autumn propagation, the scales are immersed in damp peat and the whole thing is placed in a plastic bag for a month.
- Air humidity during this procedure should be 80 - 85%.
- For the first 1.5 months, the temperature should be relatively high - about 23 - 25 ° C, then for another month it is slightly reduced to 17 - 18 ° C.
- For the next 6 months, the bulbs can be placed in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.
As a result of these manipulations, 5 - 10 daughter bulbs may appear on the edges of each scale.
When each small onion can boast well-formed roots about 1 cm long, it is planted in the ground so that its top protrudes from the ground by a third.
Usually such specimens are planted in open ground in late summer - early autumn so that they have time to take root well before winter.
During the first year of life, seedlings will need shelter for the winter.
The substrate in which they are located should be watered or sprayed so that it always remains moist, but not wet.
The first buds can decorate plants obtained from scales at the age of 2-3 years.
Reproduction by bulblets
Asian hybrids and some varieties of tubular lilies produce small bulbs on their stems, which are separated from the mother plant and planted separately.
To form large bulbs, the bushes must receive good care and nutrition in the form of mineral or organic fertilizers. Flowering should also not be allowed, as this process takes too much energy.
Specimens obtained from daughter bulbs bloom for the first time at the age of 2-3 years.
Division of large bulbs, daughter bulbs
Most species can be propagated by dividing the bulbs, which is done in the spring during replanting.
Adult, abundantly blooming specimens are selected for division.
Division should be done every 5 years, since the bulbs bloom less abundantly with age.
The cut sites must be treated with carbon powder or ash for drying and disinfection.
Many varieties of lilies eventually produce daughter bulbs. The baby bulbs are separated from the mother plant once every 3-4 years, during replanting.
Growing from seeds
Growing from seeds is used mainly by breeders. Bushes grown from seeds may not inherit the attractiveness of their parents, and they will need several years to develop.
Flowering time
Depending on the species, lilies bloom from spring to autumn, and the flowering period can last two to three weeks.
Since the buds open sequentially - from the base of the stem to its top, the overall flowering time is quite long. Each flower can remain open and attractive for a week.
Diseases and pests
- When grown in partial shade, the stem becomes elongated and weak, the distance between the leaves increases.
- If there is excess moisture, the leaves turn yellow and may even fall off; stagnation of water at the roots leads to rotting of the bulb.
- Keeping it in dry air can shorten the flowering period.
- Small flowers will appear on plants that have been kept in rooms with sudden temperature changes.
- Fungal diseases, such as gray mold, appear when the plant is kept too cool and damp.
- Botrytis.
- Viral diseases, such as leaf mosaic, are transmitted from plant to plant when pruned with a dirty tool. Infected bushes cannot be treated - they are destroyed.
- If lilies are grown for many years in the same place without transplanting or dividing, then they form small flowers, as their bulbs divide and over time they become too crowded - the plants begin to experience nutrient deficiency.
- Buds fall off due to insufficient lighting or too high air temperature during stem development.
- Plants get sick when salts accumulate in the soil, so you can’t water flowers with unsettled water.
- The leaves become light and even yellow when a disease such as chlorosis occurs - it occurs due to iron deficiency or if the flower is watered with unsettled water. Foliar fertilizing with iron preparations can help in treatment. Oriental lilies most often suffer from chlorosis.
- Too much deepening during planting delays the onset of flowering - sometimes buds do not form at all.
The plant can be attacked by spider mites. When grown in open ground, shoots and leaves, as well as the root system, can be attacked by lily beetles, cockchafers, lily flies, mole crickets, cockchafer larvae, onion flies, wireworms, snails and slugs, caterpillars, rodents.
Purpose
When growing lilies indoors, you should be careful, as some species have a very strong smell that can cause a headache.
The flower stalks do not lose their attractiveness for a very long time in a vase with water. For cutting, choose shoots that have just begun to open the first buds - the flowers will fully bloom already in the bouquet.
Pruning is carried out in the morning or evening, and in cloudy or rainy weather at any time of the day. To ensure that the remaining bulb does not suffer from cutting, at least 1/3 of the stem height is left on it.
Note, interesting facts
Young leaves and buds are very poisonous, keep the plant out of reach of children and pets.
In Rus', the flower was considered a symbol of purity and fragility; in Greece, the lily was considered a symbol of motherhood, since according to legend, it was created from the milk of Hera, the wife of Zeus.
In France, the flower was made a royal symbol, since it personified power, pride and dignity. Later, it became a symbol of shame, since it was the lily that began to be depicted on the brand that marked criminals.
In China, flower stalks were always present in bridal bouquets. In Germany, it was believed that lily buds are the bells of elves who communicated in this way.
In Persia and Europe, the image of the flower was used on coins, and the third capital of Persia, the city of Susa, is translated as "the city of lilies".
The flower oil was used for cosmetic purposes by Egyptian women. Nowadays, herbal preparations are used in cosmetic procedures to remove age spots and freckles.
Varieties and types:
Lily asiatic
Asiatic hybrid lilies are one of the earliest flowering lilies - the first flowers appear in June - July. The plants are unpretentious, very hardy, rarely susceptible to disease, and are characterized by abundant and long flowering - up to 1 month. These herbaceous bulbous perennials have erect stems that reach a height of 60 - 150 cm, but often do not exceed 50 cm. Each such stem bears narrow, linear, dark green leaves with arcuate venation. The leaf blades have smooth edges. At the top of the stems of each plant there are from 4 to 6 large, bright flowers with a diameter of 10 - 15 cm. The shades of flowers are very diverse and include almost the entire color gamut, with the exception of a blue tint. The buds are directed vertically up, to the sides or down. A distinctive feature of Asiatic lilies is the lack of scent in the flowers.
Unlike oriental lilies, Asiatic lilies are easier to propagate - these flowers often form daughter bulbs near the mother, and, in addition, the plants often have small stem bulbs that are located in the axils of the leaves. Asiatic lilies are easier to grow indoors - they are quite compact. Plants are characterized by increased resistance to diseases and frost.
Lily asiatic Elodie
A fairly low plant with delicate, pink, double flowers. Each stem can bear up to 4 - 5 flowers with a diameter of 12 to 14 cm. A distinctive feature of the variety is that the anthers are replaced by an additional row of petals. From planting the bulb to flowering, an average of 10 - 12 weeks passes.
Asiatic Hybrid Lily 'Landini'
This variety is believed to be the closest Asiatic lily to black. The plant reaches a height of 90 cm and blooms in June. The flowers are very dark - burgundy, almost black, odorless.
Lily Lollypop
Miniature variety - plant height ranges from 30 to 45 cm. The flowers are brightly colored, with 6 oblong, triangular petals. The tips of the petals are bright pink, the middle is white, and the center of the flower is often green or yellowish. These lilies look great in group plantings.
Oriental lilies
Oriental lilies are distinguished by their high growth - many plants reach a height of 1 - 2 m. The flowers of oriental lilies are larger than those of Asian lilies and are distinguished by the presence of a pleasant aroma. The negative aspects include increased demands on the soil - oriental lilies do not tolerate an alkaline substrate. Flowering is long-lasting, occurring in July - August. The tall stems of oriental lilies require support.
Unfortunately, the variety has a difficult character - the plants require compliance with certain rules of agricultural technology and suffer from many diseases. In regions with harsh climates, plants will need shelter for the winter. Oriental hybrids are often used for forcing - a process through which flowering plants can be obtained for any desired holiday.
Lily oriental hybrids Muscadet
Tall plants, reaching a height of 90 - 120 cm. Flowering occurs in the second half of summer, most often in August. The flowers are large, white, with oblong-triangular petals with corrugated edges. The petals are painted snow-white, have a small pink stripe in the center and bright red specks - freckles - scattered over the surface of the petals.
Lily oriental hybrids Casa Blanca
Large plants reaching 90 - 120 cm in height. The stems bear at the top many very large, fragrant, snow-white flowers, reaching a diameter of 25 cm. There is a light green or yellow stripe at the base of the petals. The flowering period is very long and can last for a whole month.
Lily Stargazer
A perennial herbaceous plant about 90 cm high. The flowers are large, pink, with six long petals. Dark specks are scattered throughout the main tone of the petals, the edges of the petals are painted in a light, almost white color, and the center of the flowers often remains greenish.
Lily 'Dizzy'
The plant is from 90 to 120 cm in height. The flowers are fragrant, large, reach 16 - 18 cm in diameter, and bloom in the second half of summer. The edges of the petals are corrugated. The flowers are painted white, the center of the petals has a dark pink stripe, and the surface of the petals is covered with small burgundy specks.
Lily lancifolium
The plant is about 1 m high, with thin, unbranched stems. The stems of the plants are often dark, almost black. A distinctive feature of tiger lilies is their resistance to various diseases. The leaves are dark green, narrow, linear, leaf blades with a smooth edge. During the flowering period, many bright, orange, sometimes lemon-yellow, drooping flowers are formed at the tops of the stems. The flowers have no scent and reach a diameter of 12 cm. The flower petals have dark brown specks. A distinctive feature is that the plant forms a large number of axillary bulbs. Bulbs or daughter bulbs are used for propagation.
Martagon Hybrids
Medium-sized lilies 85 - 90 cm high. Flowering is early, often occurring in June. The flowers are delicate, very varied in color - each stem can bear up to 50 flowers. The flowers, collected in a branched inflorescence at the tops of the shoots, are lowering, with petals curved upward, and have a light aroma. Unlike most other lilies, martagon can bloom successfully even when grown in partial shade and prefers weak alkaline soil. Interestingly, this variety is considered an edible plant - it was eaten fresh or cooked in regions such as Mongolia, Siberia, and the Far East. The flower reproduces by daughter bulbs and scales.
Lily Trumpet
Tall lilies, which reach 120 cm, were obtained as a result of hybridization of Asian flowers. The plants have flexible, rather thin, unbranched stems, with narrow, dark green, linear leaves. Each stem can bear up to 15 - 20 drooping flowers at the top. The flowers reach 15 and 25 cm in diameter and have an intense aroma. A distinctive feature of the plants is that the flowers do not open completely.
The flowering period is one of the longest - up to 3 months for each plant. Flower colors include white, pink, yellow, and peach. The plants are frost-resistant and can be propagated by any means available to lilies.
Lily trumpet Regale
Very tall herbaceous plants, reaching a height of 120 - 180 cm. The leaves are glossy, dark green, oblong-lanceolate. The flowering period occurs in July. Each stem can bear up to 25 drooping, large flowers with a diameter of up to 15 cm. The petals of the flowers are painted white, the center of the buds remains yellow, and the outside of the petals have burgundy stripes. The plant has an intense aroma that intensifies at night. Other names are royal or royal lily, Tibetan lily.
Double Oriental Lily
Terry lilies reach a height of 90 - 150 cm. The main feature of the plants is that the anthers of the flowers are replaced by additional rows of narrow, triangular petals. The edges of the petals are often corrugated. Flower colors include white, lilac, pink, salmon, red, yellow and greenish hues. The flowers are very large, reaching a diameter of 20 cm.
Lily LOO-hybrids Triumphator
Quite a tall variety - plants reach 90 - 120 cm in height. Flowering is early - occurs in June - July. The stem is rigid, strong, unbranched. The leaves are glossy, spear-shaped, dark green, arranged spirally. The flowers are tubular, large, fragrant, reaching a diameter of 15 - 25 cm. The petals are painted white, the center of the flower has a pinkish-burgundy tint.
Lily longiflorum
Compact herbaceous lilies with a height of 60 to 90 cm. Flowering occurs in the second half of summer - in July and August. The stems are unbranched, flexible and quite thin. The leaves are dark green, glossy, narrow, spear-shaped, 12 - 18 cm long. The flowers are long, tubular, painted in white, cream, soft pink, yellow shades. The center of the flowers often remains greenish or yellow. Unfortunately, the long-flowered lily does not have great frost resistance and with the onset of severe frosts it will need additional shelter. The advantage of these plants will be their fairly compact size, which allows this variety to be grown as a home potted plant.
Lily Scheherazade
Tall variety - the plant reaches a height of 120 - 200 cm. The stems are rigid - the plant often does not need support. Although the stems look quite thin. Each stem is capable of bearing a loose, branched inflorescence consisting of 30 - 40 flowers. The flowers are drooping, with triangular petals curved upward. Flowering occurs in the second half of summer, reaches 12 - 25 cm in diameter, and has burgundy petals with light, almost white edges. The center of the flowers is yellow.
Lily henryi
Graceful tall plants, reaching 120 - 250 cm in height with thin, unbranched stems. The leaves are green, narrow, linear, glossy, with longitudinal veins. Flowering occurs in late July - early August. These lilies grow and bloom beautifully even when grown in partial shade. The flowers are orange, freckled, drooping, with upturned petals.
Lily dauricum, Lily pensylvanicum
Compact plants, the height of which ranges from 15 cm to 70 cm. The leaves are narrow, linear, 4 - 5 cm long. The flowers are solitary, with six oblong-triangular petals. Flowering occurs in June - July, the flowers are yellow, orange, coral, red, the petals often have dark, contrasting specks of freckles. For propagation, you can use scales and daughter bulbs.
Lily caucasicum
A variety of martagon lily with rigid, tall stems reaching 2 m. The leaves are green, narrowly lanceolate, up to 6 cm long, and surround the stem in a spiral. The flowers are fragrant, pink, purple, yellow, burgundy, drooping, with petals curved up. Each stem can bear up to 50 flowers.
Lily candidum
Bulbous herbaceous perennials 120 - 180 cm high with thin, vertical shoots. The leaves are linear, glossy, green. In spring or early summer, charming snow-white flowers with an intense aroma appear on the tops of the shoots. Each plant is capable of forming up to 20 flowers at the tops of shoots.
Lily pardalinum
A flowering bulbous perennial, reaching a height of more than 2 m. It is a herbaceous plant with thin, unbranched stems, on which long, narrow, dark green leaves are alternately located. At the top of the plants there are multi-flowered inflorescences consisting of bright, orange-red flowers. The flower petals have characteristic leopard spots on the surface.