Abutilon

Family. Malvaceae.

Origin, where it grows. In nature, abutilones are found over a very wide area - in Asia and America, Africa and Australia. Basically, the rope bird prefers warm areas with tropical and subtropical climates. It is believed that it originated from China.

Description - what it looks like. Abutilone - flowering herbaceous annual or perennial plant, shrub or small tree. The genus includes several hundred plant species - according to various estimates, from 100 to 400 species that can adapt to a wide variety of environmental conditions.

Among the abutilons there are large perennial shrubs and subshrubs, as well as very small herbaceous plants inhabiting different parts of the globe. Only a small part of the plants is grown as ornamental and potted plants.

The bushes have strong, erect, branched shoots, which over time become lignified and covered with light brown bark. The leaves are glossy, green, dissected into 3 - 5 fingers, reaching a length of 10 cm. Small denticles are located along the edges of the leaf blades. The leaves are arranged alternately, on long and thin petioles. There are spectacular varieties with variegated leaf blades. 

The flowers are large, cup-shaped, drooping, with 5 wide heart-shaped petals, reminiscent of mallow or hibiscus. Flowers are arranged singly or in small inflorescences. The diameter of the buds of varietal plants can reach 7 cm. The color of the petals is most often in pastel colors - including yellow, orange, pink, white and red shades.

In some plants, the petals have 2 shades at once - the veins are often painted in a more saturated color. There are also double forms of abutilon and plants intended for growing in hanging pots - hanging varieties. The latter are characterized by long, drooping shoots that hang over the edges of the pots in a beautiful cascade. 

After flowering, seed pods form on the bushes, which become dry and brown when ripe. The boxes contain up to one and a half dozen darkly colored heart-shaped seeds.

The genus name  Abutilon  comes from the Arabic word "aubutilun". It was given to plants by a Persian physician and astronomer named Avicenna.

The name "abutilon" is translated as "shade-giving" - for the thick and furry crown with large leaves. The flower was nicknamed indoor maple for the characteristic, finger-shaped shape of its leaf blades, reminiscent of maple. It was nicknamed the ropemaker for the strong fibers contained in the twigs, which Indians use to produce durable ropes and burlap.

Height. At home, the height of abutilon can reach 2 meters, but it can be easily adjusted with regular haircuts. There are plants whose height, even in adulthood, does not exceed 50 - 60 cm. In their natural habitat, trees can reach 4 meters in height. 

Flowering time

The flowering period is long - it can last several months - starting in early spring and ending in mid-autumn. Modern varieties bred by breeders are capable of forming buds even in winter, but there will not be so many of them.

Each flower remains open and attractive for only a few days, but the buds will constantly replace each other. When growing at home, it is worth remembering that there will be more buds in a tight container. 

Caring for abutilone at home

Abutilone is not picky and when grown indoors it is content with minimal care, however, it is worth working hard to get a healthy and strong bush with abundant flowering. 

Features of watering, spraying

Water the plants with well-settled tap water, filtered water, or collected rainwater. The water temperature should be close to room temperature. During the period of active growth, abutilon is watered regularly - as soon as the top layer of soil, about 1 - 2 cm thick, dries out.

It is advisable to water in the morning and evening, since exposure to the sun on wet leaves during the daytime can cause sunburn. You can add a few grains of citric acid per liter or a few drops of lemon juice to the water for irrigation. Excess moisture that appears in the pan after watering is drained after a few minutes.

Around September, the frequency of watering is gradually reduced - at this time the development of plants slows down and they do not require a large amount of water. 

In the autumn-winter period between waterings, you need to dry about 3 - 4 cm of soil. You can easily check this by simply sticking a wooden skewer into the ground. Regular watering is resumed with the formation of young shoots and leaves - at the end of February or beginning of March.

From spring to autumn, at elevated air temperatures, plants may suffer from a lack of humidity - spray the leaves with a fine mist of warm water. When spraying, you should cover the flowers and buds with your hand - if moisture gets in, they may lose their attractiveness. Spraying is carried out in the morning so that the moisture has time to evaporate from the surface of the leaves before evening.

Instead of spraying, you can use special humidifiers or a simple tray filled with wet pebbles. Be sure to provide the ropeman with a well-ventilated area with good air circulation, but without cold drafts. When airing in the cold season, take the flower pot to another room.

A warm shower has a good effect on the condition of plants - it is carried out in the warm season, during the growing season. The soil in the pot is first covered with a plastic bag to protect it from erosion. After water treatments, it is useful to leave the flower in the bathroom for half an hour so that it can fully enjoy the warm and humid atmosphere.  

Fertilizer

Abutilone will need fertilizer only during the period of growth and flowering - from spring to autumn. As a top dressing, you can use mineral compounds for flowering plants or organic matter.

Mineral compositions must contain sufficient amounts of elements such as potassium and phosphorus - they will contribute to long-term and abundant flowering. Well-rotted cow or horse manure is used as organic matter. 

Feed the flower every 2 weeks, adding a nutrient solution to the moist soil after watering. You should not fertilize plants in dry soil - a solution that is too concentrated can cause a chemical burn to the root system.

From the end of September or mid-October, feeding is stopped, encouraging the bushes to go into a dormant state. Excellent results are obtained by alternating organic and mineral fertilizers. 

Mineral compositions can also be used for foliar feeding - applying them directly to the leaves when spraying. The solution should be diluted to half or even a third of the dose recommended on the package.

If buds also form in winter, then the frequency of fertilizing is reduced to once a month or the fertilizer is diluted to half the dosage. 

Air temperature

In spring and summer, temperatures ranging from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius are suitable for abutilone. In autumn and winter, the air temperature can be slightly reduced - up to 13 - 15 degrees Celsius. Changing the temperature regime should always take place gradually; jumps are unacceptable. When the air temperature is 12 degrees or less, active leaf fall begins. 

Only a few species are resistant to low temperatures, but even they cannot withstand air temperatures below -5 ° C.

Lighting

Long daylight hours are important for flowering to occur, but midday sunlight can harm abutilone. Place the bush on an east or west window so that it receives sunbathing in the morning and evening for 3 to 4 hours daily. If there are only windows facing south, then the pot is placed about a meter away from the window and the ropeway is shaded with a light tulle curtain.

With a lack of sunlight, flowering will become scarce or not occur at all, and the shape of the bush will become elongated. A way out of this situation can be artificial lighting, which is turned on in the morning and evening. For additional lighting, conventional fluorescent lamps are used, as well as LED or special phytolights. The duration of daylight hours should be 10-12 hours a day; at night, the lights are turned off. 

Pruning and shaping

The abutilon develops quite quickly and will require timely pruning to maintain the compact shape of the bush. The formation of the crown in abutilons begins at a fairly early age - the main shoot is pinched above the 6-7 leaf blade. In response, the rope plant will form side shoots. In this case, the first flowering will have to be sacrificed, but the result will be a lush crown.

Formative pruning of adult plants is carried out in early spring - before the onset of the active growth phase. Shoots that are too long are cut by a third or even half their length with a sharp and sterilized pruner. During sanitary pruning, stems directed into the crown, as well as weak and diseased branches, are removed.

As they fade, remove the fading buds - this will force the bush to form new flowers and save its energy on the formation of seeds. Tall varieties and species may need support to grow. 

How to transplant a flower

Repotting is usually done in the spring - when the plants begin to show signs of new growth. In order to give the flower strength, the soil is changed to fresh every year. If we are talking about an adult tub specimen, replanting which can be difficult, then you can simply replace the top layer of soil about 5 - 7 cm thick with a fresh soil mixture.

A sign that the rope plant needs replanting will be the tips of the roots peeking out of the drainage holes of the pot and slow development of the bush.

When replanting, choose a pot 2 - 3 cm larger than the previous one, with drainage holes at the bottom. Abutilone should not be planted in a container that is too large - an excess amount of soil after watering will retain moisture, which will lead to rot. In addition, the first buds of transplanted flowers will appear only after the entire space of the pot has been developed by the root system. 

The transplanted bush is removed from the old pot. If the plant looks healthy, then you can use transshipment - the bush is transferred to a new container along with the root ball. Transshipped flowers tolerate the procedure more easily, quickly adapt to new conditions and begin to grow. If there are signs of rot or other problems, it is better to shake off any remaining soil from the root system and inspect it carefully.

If there are rotten and dead root shoots, they are cut off with sharp pruners or other tools. If there is a large wound surface resulting from such pruning, it is treated with coal powder or wood ash. After replanting, such abutilons are watered with caution so that moisture getting on the wounds does not cause rot. 

Before planting, place a drainage layer of pieces of polystyrene foam, expanded clay or small pebbles on the bottom of the pot - it will help remove excess moisture. A small layer of nutritious flower substrate is placed on the drainage and the plant is placed in the center.

The bush is sprinkled with fresh soil in a circle and lightly tamped with your fingertips to remove air pockets. The surface of the soil after transplantation should be 1 - 2 cm below the walls of the pot. Transplanted specimens are left for 3 to 5 days at room temperature away from direct sunlight.

To make the plants appear denser, you can plant 2 - 3 bushes in one pot. 

Soil for abutilone

Ready-made substrates for flowering plants can be purchased at flower shops - you should pay attention to mixtures from large and trusted manufacturers. The soil mixture should have a slightly acidic pH level of about 6.0. If necessary, you can compose the soil yourself from components such as peat and humus, garden soil, and leaf litter.

To increase moisture permeability and loosen the soil, it is worth mixing a sufficient amount of river sand into it. To maintain an acidic pH level, you can add some finely chopped pine needles to the finished substrate. A small amount of coconut fiber maintains the loose structure well. 

How to care for autumn and winter

If in warm months abutilon can be taken out into the fresh air or balcony, placed under protection from strong gusts of wind, rain and direct sun, then in mid-August it is worth bringing the plant into the house. In autumn, the bushes are prepared for the upcoming dormant period - they reduce the frequency of watering and the amount of moisture applied.

In September, fertilizing is reduced to once a month, and after flowering, they stop applying fertilizers altogether. The flower is kept in this mode throughout the winter months. The flower itself will inform you that it is necessary to regularly water and feed it again by the formation of young leaves in the spring. 

Reproduction

Over time, abutilon may not become as attractive as in his youth and will need updating. The main methods of propagation of abutilons are seed and cultivation using cuttings. When propagated by seed, only species plants fully retain their attractiveness - the varietal characteristics of hybrids are not transmitted to offspring.

Cuttings allow you to obtain an exact copy of the mother bush, however, specimens grown from seeds will be pre-adapted to indoor conditions.

Experts also use grafting as one of the methods of propagation - this allows you to get one bush with different shades of buds, as well as plants with variegated and green monochromatic leaves.

Growing from seeds

Planting material can be purchased at a flower shop or collected yourself. In order to obtain high-quality seeds, even during the flowering period, the largest and brightly colored bud is marked with colored thread. After flowering, wait until the seed capsule forms and ripens.

Only fully ripened capsules, the seeds in which have become dark and brownish, are separated from the plants. Before sowing, the seeds are dried for 2 - 3 days in a warm and fairly dry place with good air circulation, and then stored in a cool and dry room in paper envelopes for 2 - 3 months. Over time, seed germination decreases, so you should only use fresh planting material.

For sowing in late February - early March, seedling boxes or separate small cups and pots are prepared. As a general rule, a drainage layer is placed at the bottom and the containers are filled with loose substrate.  

Before sowing, the seeds are soaked for a day in warm water with the addition of growth hormones. Some gardeners even advise keeping the seeds soaked in cotton wool or gauze until germination - in this case, only about 10 days pass from sowing to the appearance of sprouts.

Instead of soaking, scarification will help increase the germination of seeds - shallow damage to the hard outer shell with sandpaper or a file. Carrying out scarification will require some experience - it is not advisable to damage the embryo during the procedure.

Since the seeds are quite large, they can easily be distributed evenly over the surface of the soil, leaving a distance of about 2 cm. 2 - 3 seeds are planted in separate pots and bowls. Such separate sowing helps to avoid picking - if 2-3 sprouts appear in each glass, then the weaker plants are simply cut off with scissors. 

When sowing in seedling boxes, the surface of the soil is moistened with a spray bottle and the seeds are covered on top with a layer of earth 5 - 7 mm thick. To speed up germination, boxes and pots are covered on top with a transparent film or plastic cap.

Seedlings are kept at a fairly high air temperature - about 25 degrees Celsius, in a well-lit place without access to direct sun. The substrate is kept evenly moist, but not waterlogged. The shelter is raised daily, the plants are ventilated and the water condensation that appears during the night is removed.

3 - 4 weeks after sowing, you can notice the appearance of the first shoots - at this time the cover is completely removed. Seedlings appear unevenly - the last shoots may appear even 3 months after sowing the seeds.

When grown in a seedling box, the sprouts peak when each bush can boast of having 3 true leaf blades. 

For diving, use pots filled with soil of the same composition in which the seeds were sown. The bottom of the pots should have drainage holes and a moisture-wicking layer. When diving, it is worth pinching the main root by a third of its length - this will promote the development of lateral shoots and the flower will have a powerful root system. 

During the week after the dive, the cable car should not be exposed to direct sun and the air humidity should be kept high enough. 10 days after the dive, the bushes are fed for the first time with a weak solution of mineral fertilizers with a high nitrogen content - this element promotes the formation of green mass.

With proper care, the first buds will decorate plants obtained from seeds at the age of 4 - 6 months - at this moment potassium and phosphorus mineral compositions are already used for feeding. As the bushes grow, they are transferred to pots of larger diameter. 

Cuttings

Cuttings are carried out in the warm season - starting in spring. Young shoots that are not covered with bark are cut from an adult rope plant. Similar stems can be obtained by spring pruning. The length of the cuttings can reach 10 - 12 cm and consist of 2 - 3 internodes. The lower cut is made oblique, and the upper cut is made straight.

The lower 1 - 2 leaf blades are cut off completely, and the upper ones are optionally shortened by a third of the length to reduce moisture loss. The buds on the cuttings are also removed.

In the summer months, already semi-lignified shoots are used for rooting. The bases of the cuttings are dusted with growth hormones and immersed in a mixture of peat and sand, taken in equal quantities, approximately 1 - 1.5 cm at a slight angle to the surface. The soil is sprayed with warm water, and the cuttings are covered with a plastic bag to maintain a high level of air humidity. 

The air temperature during rooting should be 22 - 26 degrees Celsius. The cover is removed daily and the abutilon is ventilated.

The fact that the first roots have appeared under the surface of the earth can be judged by the appearance of young leaves - usually this happens within a month.

Cuttings root successfully even in a glass of water, but it is worth paying attention to the fact that roots will form faster in an opaque container. You can add an activated carbon tablet and some growth stimulants to the water for rooting.

Such cuttings are planted in the ground when the roots reach 1 cm in length. Do not worry that the cuttings do not begin to grow for a long time - their root system will get used to the new conditions within a few days. 

Diseases and pests

In general, abutilon gets sick and is attacked by pests quite rarely - mainly due to improper care or inappropriate conditions. Also, leaves and buds may fall off due to sudden temperature changes and changes in light. It is worth accustoming the flower to any changes gradually - over 7 - 10 days.

Twisting and flying of leaf plates will indicate the presence of a cold draft in the room. The tips of the leaves also curl when there is too much light. In insufficient light, the color of the leaves fades. 

With insufficient ventilation and keeping the air cool and high humidity, powdery mildew appears. Frequent and abundant watering, growing in a pot that is too spacious can lead to root rot. Lack of nutrition contributes to less abundant flowering, dropping of buds and their shredding.

Among the pests, the abutilon can be attacked by insects such as spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies, mealybugs or aphids. Sometimes cyclamen mites appear. 

Why abutilone turns yellow

The leaves turn yellow mainly when there is a lack of light - in this case, you can move the flower to a brighter place or apply additional lighting artificially. The tips of the leaf blades can dry out and turn yellow if there is insufficient air humidity - this is especially true in the cold season when the central heating is on.

The edges of the leaves dry out and turn brown during prolonged drought. Leaves also turn yellow when grown in alkaline soil or lack of iron in the soil. The situation can be corrected by watering with slightly acidified water and spraying the foliage with an iron chelate solution.

Hot summer days can also cause leaves to turn yellow. The edges of the leaf blades turn yellow due to a lack of an element such as magnesium. 

Leaves and buds often fall off when the earthen ball dries out, as well as when the flower is flooded. A too dry atmosphere also negatively affects the rope plant - its leaf blades become curled and may fall off. Increased air temperatures during the dormant period can lead to leaf shedding. Lack of nutrients in the soil contributes to leaf fall. 

Signs, useful properties

It is believed that growing this flower at home helps insecure people gain courage; its flowering promotes calm and peace in the home. Bright buds give vigor in the morning and make relationships harmonious, bringing an atmosphere of harmony to the family. This flower is also important for young talents - it is believed that it helps to reveal and develop the talents inherent in a person. 

Among other things, Theophrast abutilon also has healing properties - its juice is used as a wound-healing agent and also helps get rid of the manifestations of furunculosis. Disinfecting and anti-inflammatory properties are also used for diseases of the oral cavity - with the help of a decoction they relieve symptoms of stomatitis.

The bark of the indoor maple has an astringent and diuretic effect, and the seeds and leaves have laxative, anti-inflammatory and expectorant properties.

Compresses with flower juice are used for burns. It is believed that the juice of the green mass can alleviate the condition of elevated body temperature. The leaves and shoots contain plant antioxidants, as well as substances that help strengthen the immune system and improve liver health. 

Varieties and types of abutilone:

Abutilon megapotamicum or Amazonian

 A fast-growing shrub 150 - 250 cm high with thin, weakly branched shoots; in its natural habitat, this heat-loving species is found in Brazil and Argentina. The leaves are green, oblong, and can be cut into 3 "fingers". The leaf blades reach a length of 8 cm and have small teeth along the edge. The flowers are solitary or collected in small inflorescences, with long pedicels. The shape of the buds resembles Chinese lanterns - they have bright red sepals and 5 contrasting yellow petals. The flowers reach 5 - 6 cm in length and decorate plants from spring until mid-autumn.

If plants of this type are provided with support, they can easily climb up it.

Abutilon Savitzii

A spectacular species, which is distinguished by powerful, erect, weakly branched shoots, reaching 90 - 120 cm in height. During the flowering period, it forms drooping, half-open buds with petals of a soft pink or orange hue. The main decoration of this variety is the leaves - five-fingered in shape, with a jagged edge. The leaf blades are green in the center, while the edges are white or yellowish. Such leaves give the plants airiness and make the crown openwork. Compared to other species, it grows quite slowly and needs shading from bright sunlight.

Abutilon vitifolium

 In nature, plants of this species can reach a height of 9 meters and have vertical shoots with numerous lateral shoots. The leaves are large, dark green, 3 - 5 palmate, with slight pubescence on the surface, reminiscent in shape of maple or grape leaf blades. The flowers are wide open, with soft, wide petals, collected in axillary inflorescences of 3 - 5 buds each. The color of the buds usually includes white, lilac, blue and pink shades. Chile is considered the birthplace of this variety.

Darwin's abutilone

South American evergreen perennial up to 2 meters high. The bushes have a spreading, slightly unkempt shape due to numerous thin branches. The leaf blades are heart-shaped at the base, with 3 fingers and small teeth along the edge, colored green. The buds are bell-shaped, drooping, with wide petals in shades of yellow, white, orange, red or pink.

Abutilon theophrasti

 A herbaceous annual plant native to South Asia. The species is named after the ancient Greek philosopher and botanist - Theophrastus. In nature, there are plants reaching 2.5 meters in height, with a crown formed by strong, branching shoots. A distinctive feature of the species is that young shoots and leaves have thick, light pubescence on the surface. The leaves are large, heart-shaped, with leaf veins radiating in a circle, arranged alternately on long petioles, and when damaged they emit a specific aroma. The flowers are small, single, with golden-yellow petals, reaching 2.5 cm in diameter. In China, ropes and ropes are made from strong plant fibers, and they are used for the production of wicker shoes and rugs. This type is also used in folk medicine.

Abutilon Sellowianum

 Plants of this variety are compact in size - even adult shrubs rarely exceed 1.5 meters in height. Shoots are pubescent when young, weakly branched. The leaf blades are large, bright green, with 3 - 5 fingers. Currently, very attractive variegated variations of this abutilone have been developed. The buds are drooping, delicate, bell-shaped, pink in color, and often have darker veins on the surface of the petals. The flowering period is very long - it can last 5-6 months from May to November. Its native habitat is South America.

Abutilon Bella

 A compact hybrid that grows to only 30 - 40 cm in height, bred on the basis of megapotamian abutilone. The plants branch well and form a lush bush with large leaves. The leaf blades are toothed, divided into fingers and colored dark green. The flowers are wide open, resemble hibiscus, and are arranged singly. The color of the flowers is varied - from white to yellow and orange, red and cream. The buds reach 5 - 7 cm in diameter and are the main decoration of plants for most of the year. This variety is also characterized by several waves of flowering during one season.

Abutilon Juliet

 Lush bushes of this variety are small in size - often do not exceed a height of 100 cm. They have erect, branched shoots, are characterized by a high growth rate and require regular formative pruning. The leaves are green, with small fingers and a serrated edge, reaching a length of 15 cm. The flowers are drooping - pink or orange, the buds are half-open.

Abutilon Organza

An attractive evergreen shrub with a compact crown shape consisting of vertical, thin shoots. Plants of this hybrid variety develop quickly and are characterized by abundant and long-lasting flowering. The leaves resemble maple leaves - they are cut into several pointed fingers and have a smooth, green surface. The flowers are very large - reaching a diameter of 7 cm, have wide and soft petals. The shades of the flowers are very delicate - pastel, including white, cream, yellow, salmon and pink. The buds are arranged singly or in small axillary inflorescences of 2 - 3 flowers. When grown at home, the height of plants often does not exceed 60 cm.

Abutilone Tiger Eye

 A very popular variety among flower growers, the main distinguishing feature of which is drooping, half-open buds painted in an orange tint. The veins on the petals are highlighted in contrasting dark red. Plants develop quickly and require regular shaping pruning. The height of the shrub can reach 90 - 120 cm.

Abutilon Souvenir de Bonn

 A variegated shrub characterized by large leaf blades with pointed fingers. The leaves are colored in a dark, bluish - green tint, and the edges are white, cream or yellowish. An additional decoration of this abutilon are the drooping bell-shaped buds of a soft pink hue, which contrast perfectly with the dark leaves. The flowers reach 6 cm in diameter and are formed singly during the warm season - from spring to autumn. The bush is vigorous - without pruning it can grow up to 2.5 - 3 meters in height.

Abutilon bellevue

A beautifully flowering variety series, the plants of which are of medium size - an adult bush can reach 70 cm in height. The shoots of the bushes are smooth, weakly branched. The leaves are green, palmate, with a glossy surface. During the flowering period, it forms drooping buds of bright colors. Flowers can reach 7 - 8 cm in diameter. Abundant and long-lasting flowering occurs in April - May and ends in November. Individual buds may appear throughout the year.

Abutilon Versicolor

 A vigorous hybrid with erect, unbranched shoots. Plants have large, green leaf blades, dissected into 3 to 5 fingers. An interesting feature of the variety is that the same bush can bear flowers of different shades - white, cream, yellow, orange and red. Often even one bud has differently colored petals.

Abutilon suntense

 A fast-growing, highly branched shrub that easily reaches a height of almost 2 meters. Plants have thin shoots covered with a light waxy coating. The leaf blades are colored bluish-green, have from 3 to 5 indistinct fingers, and have slight pubescence. The flowers are wide open and light purple in color. The shrub develops quickly, but easily tolerates even a drastic pruning.

Abutilon striatum

 A showy evergreen shrub with bell-shaped, drooping buds. The wide petals of the flowers are a rich orange color with wide burgundy veins on the surface of the petals. Abundant flowering occurs in spring and ends in November, but individual flowers can form even in the winter months with proper care. Leaf blades are dark green. This bush can reach a height of 180 cm.