Pachira

Family. Malvaceae.

Origin. Mexico South America.

Description. Pachira is a fast-growing evergreen tree with thin, slender, flexible trunks covered with thin light-brown bark. At the base of the trunks there is often a thickening, which gave the plant a second name - "bottle tree". The stems rarely branch.

The leaves are compound - consist of 5 - 6 oblong-oval segments of dark green color, located on long thin petioles, forming a crown. Another name - "Malabar chestnut", given for the shape of the leaves, reminiscent of chestnut leaves. Each leaf blade can reach 30 cm in diameter.

The flowers are attractive, white, yellow or greenish, with long narrow petals reaching 15 - 20 cm in diameter. The main decoration of the buds are long straight stamens, painted white with pink or red tips.

The flowers have a pleasant aroma, which intensifies at night. The aroma is reminiscent of vanilla.

After flowering, edible fruits are formed, which taste like peanuts.

Currently, specimens with beautifully intertwined trunks are available for sale.

Height. It grows quickly and reaches impressive sizes. At home, mainly young specimens are grown, the height of which can be regulated by planting in a tight pot and trimming. In nature, it reaches a height of 20 m.

Care at home

Reproduction 

Pachira reproduces both by seeds and vegetatively - using stem cuttings.

Seeds are planted in the spring. Seed propagation is rare - fresh planting material is quite difficult to obtain. Specimens grown from seeds will require several years to form a trunk. This method of propagation is suitable only for patient gardeners.

Fresh seeds have good germination, but after six months it gradually begins to decrease.

1. Small plastic cups or pots are prepared for sowing seeds.
2. Drainage holes are made in the bottom of the cups and a layer of drainage 1-2 cm high is poured.
3. Fill the cups with a nutritious soil mixture with a light texture.
4. The surface of the substrate is thoroughly moistened using a sprayer with water at room temperature.
5. Seeds are sown 1 pc. into a cup and cover with a layer of substrate about 1 cm thick, then spray again.
6. The glasses are placed in a warm place with a temperature of at least 23° C.
7. The location should be out of direct sunlight.
8. The seedlings are covered with glass, transparent plastic or polyethylene film to create a greenhouse effect.
9. Within a month, the first shoots may appear - at this time the shelter can be completely removed.
10. Every day the film is removed and the seedlings are aired. As the bushes grow, they are transplanted into pots of a slightly larger diameter.

After diving, 7 to 10 days later, you can feed the flower with nitrogen fertilizers to form lush green mass. 

Also, before planting, the seeds can be pre -germinated in a transparent bag.

1. Place damp sphagnum moss and one seed in a plastic bag.
2. Close the bag to prevent moisture from evaporating.
3. Air the seeds daily for several minutes.
4. After 3 - 4 weeks the seeds will show the first signs of growth and can be placed in pots. 

Vegetative propagation or cuttings are carried out in the summer months - stem cuttings about 10 cm long are taken.

1. The cutting is separated with a sharp, sterile pruning shears so that at least one leaf blade remains on it.
2. The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings to reduce moisture loss during rooting.
3. The bases of the cuttings are sprinkled with rooting powders.
4. The cuttings are planted in nutritious, moist soil to a depth of about 3 cm and covered with glass or a transparent plastic cap to maintain uniform humidity.
5. Seedlings take root successfully at a temperature of 24 - 27°C.

The fact that roots have appeared underground can be confirmed with the beginning of new growth - when young leaves appear on the cuttings.

Usually the process of rooting pachira does not cause difficulties and goes quickly - within a couple of weeks. If the above agricultural techniques are followed, up to 80 percent of the cuttings will successfully take root.

Cuttings take root poorly in water and often rot. It is worth adding an activated carbon tablet to the water for rooting - this will prevent the development of diseases. It is worth changing the water in a glass with a cutting every 5-6 days.

How to care  

This is a hardy species that can acclimatize to a wide range of temperature and lighting conditions. Even a novice flower lover can grow pachira.

The tree will happily spend its summer holidays outdoors or on a balcony. Place the pot in the shade from direct sunlight, as well as under protection from heavy rainfall and strong wind. The flower does not like sudden changes in living conditions - acclimatize to all changes gradually. During the week, take the pot out into the fresh air for several hours during the day and gradually increase the time spent outdoors.

To maintain a compact shape, formative pruning is necessary - the stems are shortened to the desired height. Pruning is carried out with a sharply sharpened and sterilized tool - a garden knife or pruning shears. When pruning, weak and elongated shoots are also removed.

With the help of proper pruning, you can form a rounded, lush crown or get a bonsai tree.

There is no need to worry that after such a procedure the plant will be left without leaves - after pruning, one or more lateral dormant buds will awaken literally within a couple of weeks.

As needed, wipe large leaf blades with a damp sponge to remove dust.

Braiding trunks

If you have purchased a specimen with intertwined stems, regularly maintain this shape by bending the young green stems and securing them in this position with ties.

When growing from seeds, 3 bushes are planted in one pot at once.

The stems of young trees, while covered with smooth green skin, are quite flexible, they are intertwined so that some distance remains between the shoots. This is necessary so that the stems do not grow together over time, since the trunks develop not only in length but also in width.

The upper part of the braid is fixed with soft ties or simple twine so that it does not cut into the bark.

To prevent the braids from unraveling over time, cut the bark from the inside of the stems with a sharp knife and press the branches tightly against each other. Over time, the trunks of the pachira will grow together in this place.

Some trees are sold in the form of a spiral - this shape can be maintained at home by fixing the young shoots.

When and how to replant 

The indoor pachira does best in slightly cramped conditions - do not plant it in a container that is too large.

Transplantation is carried out in the spring and only if necessary.

Young seedlings are replanted annually, each time slightly increasing the size of the pot - for example, by 2-3 cm in diameter. Planting immediately in large containers is impractical - an excess amount of soil will retain moisture and cause rotting.

Growing in tight pots will slow down development.

Oddly enough, the color of the pot will also matter - the root system of pachira does not like overheating and trees grown in direct sunlight are best planted in light pots, the walls of which will heat up less.

As they grow, the frequency of replanting can be reduced to once every 2-3 years. For large specimens, the replanting of which is difficult, annually change the soil layer 5 - 7 cm thick with fresh substrate.

1. The growing pot should be wide and shallow, with large drainage holes. For mature trees, it is also worth choosing a heavy, stable container, as the plant can tip over under its own weight. You can put a brick on the bottom of light pots.
2. A fairly high drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the pot - up to 1/4 of the height of the pot. Expanded clay, broken bricks, clay shards and pieces of foam can be used as drainage.
3. A small layer of soil is poured onto the drainage.
4. Place the plant in the center of the pot. Depending on the transplant method, the flower is moved with or without the root ball.
5. The root system is sprinkled with fresh soil mixture and lightly compacted to remove air pockets.
6. After planting, make sure the tree is at the same depth as it was in the previous container.
7. The surface of the soil after planting should be 1 - 2 cm below the walls of the pot.
8. The seedlings are placed in a shaded area, protected from direct sunlight, for 7–10 days.
9. Shoots and leaves can be sprayed with water at room temperature with the addition of phytohormones.

Moving together with the root ball is called transshipment - the root system is practically not damaged during transshipment, the trees adapt faster and begin new growth.

The need for transplantation with a complete replacement of the soil can be due to various diseases - for example, root rot. When transplanting, the root system is shaken off from the remains of the old substrate, washed in running water, dried and carefully examined.

If signs of disease are detected, the affected areas are cut to healthy tissue, and the cut sites are sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

To prevent the disease from reappearing, the tree is planted only in fresh substrate, in a sterilized pot. When transplanting, the root system is straightened - you need to ensure that the roots do not bend and are not directed upwards.

The first watering is carried out 5 - 7 days after planting. There is no need to rush with fertilizing either - it is carried out 3-4 weeks after planting in new soil.

Diseases and pests 

• If kept in cold conditions, leaves may fall off, the same thing happens with excessive watering.
• If there is insufficient lighting, the development of the plant stops - the leaves become small and lose their bright color.
• When exposed to cold drafts, the edges of the leaf blades acquire brown scorch marks.
• Moisture getting on the trunk with insufficient air circulation causes rotting - the stem becomes soft and is pressed through with a finger.
• Stagnation of water in the soil and too much watering in autumn and winter will also lead to the appearance of rot.
• Insufficient air humidity is reflected on the leaves - their edges become dry and brown.
• Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight causes sunburn. 
• Leaf blades lose turgor and become soft with insufficient watering.
• A sharp change in air temperature causes the leaves to curl, and the leaf blades turn brown.
• The leaves turn yellow due to lack of nutrition - feed the flower.
• In close proximity to heating systems, leaves may fall off. 

Harmful insects - spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, thrips, aphids.

Soil 

The soil should be loose and well-drained, and also contain a sufficient amount of nutrients.

To grow pachira, the mixture can be made up of components such as garden soil, leaf and turf humus, and peat.

To ensure that the substrate remains loose and sufficiently nutritious, a little charcoal or wood ash is mixed into it.

To improve moisture permeability, river sand, perlite or vermiculite are added to the soil.

The end result should be light and loose nutritious soil with a neutral pH level. 

Watering 

In spring and summer, during the growth period, watering should be regular.

The top layer of soil should dry out before each subsequent watering. In autumn, watering should be reduced depending on the temperature.

If the flower is given a cool rest period, then in the winter months, simply protect the substrate from drying out completely.

Be sure to drain the excess moisture that has accumulated in the tray after watering.

For watering, use water at room temperature, settled for at least a day.

Since the thick trunk of the pachira contains a supply of moisture, the tree easily tolerates slight drying out of the substrate, but does not tolerate increased soil moisture.

To prevent water from getting on the trunk during watering and causing it to rot, you can periodically carry out bottom watering by immersing the pot for several minutes in a large container of water or watering through the tray.

In the autumn-winter period, watering can be done from a watering can with a long and narrow spout along the edge of the pot.

When does bloom? 

It very rarely blooms indoors, much more often the onset of flowering can be observed in a flower greenhouse, where all conditions are created for plants. Flowering will be most abundant in the summer months, but individual buds can appear at any time of the year.

Fertilizer 

From spring to autumn, feed with liquid complex fertilizers every 2 weeks. During the winter months, feeding is stopped and resumed only when new growth begins in the spring. 

The nutrient solution should be diluted to half the dose recommended on the package. If fertilizers are diluted at full strength, then the frequency of fertilizing can be reduced to once a month.

For feeding pachira, choose liquid mineral fertilizers for decorative leafy species or palms. The plant also responds well to the use of organic fertilizers.

Well-rotted cow or horse manure, a weak solution of bird droppings or humus are used as organic matter.

Apply fertilizer after abundant watering. If the nutrient solution gets on dry roots, it can cause a chemical burn.

Containment temperature

Can be grown at normal room temperature throughout the year - ranging from 20 to 24 ° C.

In autumn and winter, in conditions of insufficient lighting, it is better to provide a period of rest at a temperature of 10 - 15 ° C. In such conditions, the flower slows down its development and will not throw out long and thin branches when there is a lack of light.

Do not expose the plant to temperatures below 5°C during the winter months - the pachira may die. 

The tree will easily tolerate fairly strong summer heat provided that the frequency of watering and air humidity are adequately increased.

When the air temperature rises to 35 ° C and above, plants stop their development.

Lighting

The bush will appreciate a brightly lit place with direct sunlight early in the morning and in the evening. In hot daytime hours - from 10 am to 5 pm, shading is necessary.

When grown in partial shade, growth slows down, but when exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves can get burned.

In autumn and winter, if the plant is kept at room temperature and continues to grow, additional illumination with fluorescent lamps is possible.

The most suitable for maintenance are considered to be western and eastern windowsills. When placed on the south side, shoots and leaves are protected from the sun with a curtain or the pot is deepened into the room. When placed on the north side, artificial lighting is required.

Fluorescent lamps, LED lamps or special phytolamps are suitable as lighting. With the help of backlighting, daylight hours are extended to 12-14 hours per day.

Spraying 

For pachira, you should create a sufficiently humid atmosphere in the room - especially with the onset of warm weather.

Spray the leaves with room temperature water in the first half of the day - water that stagnates in the leaf axils or on the trunk at night can cause rotting.

Place a room humidifier next to the container.

You can put the pot on a tray with wet pebbles - in this case, make sure that the surface of the water does not directly reach the bottom of the pot.

Place the tree away from heating devices.

Place the flower in a ventilated place with sufficient air movement. Pachira does not like exposure to cold drafts.

Purpose

A large, attractive species that will need plenty of room to grow.

Can be grown as a bonsai.

The bark is used in folk medicine as a remedy for sore throats and stomach pains.

Note

Pachira fruits, or rather the large brown seeds they contain, are eaten both raw and fried. A drink reminiscent of cocoa is prepared from the fruit powder. Bread is made from fruits ground into flour.

Representatives of the species can live for many years indoors with good care, but with age they acquire impressive sizes and require a lot of space for development. Usually they are kept at home for up to 10 years.