Calathea

Calathea flower - family. Marantaceae.

Homeland of the plant. Central America and Brazil.

Description. The genus Calathea includes about 300 species of graceful, evergreen, perennial herbaceous plants with very attractive foliage.

The leaves are elliptical, oblong-lanceolate, sometimes belt-shaped with sharp tips, up to 30 cm long, have intricate patterns in all shades of green, with pinkish and white stripes along the veins or along the edge of the leaf blade, sometimes plain. The lower part of the leaves is often purple. At night the leaves rise, and during the day they droop beautifully. 

Flowering occurs in summer. White, greenish, cream, purple, pink, yellow or orange flowers are collected in an inflorescence - a spike on tall leafless peduncles.

The flowers of variegated forms are often unremarkable and can be pinched so that the plant does not waste its energy on flowering.

The root system of the plant consists of superficially located underground shoots, from which small clumps of leaves appear.

The most interesting feature of this plant is undoubtedly the regular geometric pattern on the leaves.

Dimensions. These plants usually reach between  40 and 60 cm. in height, but this happens very slowly.

Calathea - home care

Transplanting a plant 

In spring, young plants are transplanted every year into a larger pot. Adult specimens can be planted in fresh soil every 2 - 3 years without changing the size of the pot.

Only purchased plants are tried not to be disturbed by replanting, but are allowed to acclimatize to the new living conditions for a couple of weeks.

The need for another transplant will be indicated by the tips of the roots that appear in the drainage holes of the pot.

Planting pots should have large drainage holes. You can choose wide and shallow containers for growing flowers, since the root system of most types of calathea is located superficially. 

1. A drainage layer of broken brick, expanded clay or clay shards must be placed at the bottom of the pot.
2. When grown indoors, Calathea does not like frequent transplants - use gentle transshipment, transferring plants into a new container together with the old lump of earth. The bush is placed in the center of the new pot and simply sprinkled with fresh earth around the perimeter.
3. The substrate is lightly compacted to remove air pockets. It is better not to overdo it with this procedure, since if the root system does not receive air access, the flower will simply suffocate and die.
4. After transshipment, the plants are thoroughly watered, completely wetting the soil in the pot. Excess moisture is drained from the pan.
5. If after watering the soil has settled significantly, add a little more substrate. 
6. After transplanting, you can spray the flower leaves with water at room temperature with the addition of growth hormones.

If the flower has signs of rotting roots, then the root system is carefully disassembled during replanting and the remains of the old soil are removed.

Dead and rotten roots are cut off with sharp pruning shears, sprinkling the cut areas with crushed charcoal.

Planting is carried out exclusively in new soil, since pathogens of the disease may remain in the old one. When planted correctly in the substrate, rhizomes are located vertically.

The first feeding is carried out only 3 - 4 weeks after transplantation.

How to care for calathea 

A rather difficult and capricious plant, which is not suitable for beginner gardeners and has its own maintenance characteristics. Calathea requires high air humidity, temperature and light conditions.

Pruning in most cases comes down to simply removing old, yellowed leaves.

Some varieties will welcome a short cool dormant period from mid-autumn to mid-winter, but this is not necessary.

From time to time, wipe the large leaf blades of the plant with a damp sponge to remove dust. 

Some plant varieties may be completely left without leaves after flowering - they will simply die. At this time, you should not stop watering - new leaf blades will continue to grow after some time.

Fading buds of flowering varieties should be trimmed in a timely manner in order to stimulate the appearance of new flowers, as well as simply to maintain a neat appearance.

You should not take plants outside even in the warm season - they will react negatively to changes in daily temperatures.

When it blooms 

It blooms during the summer, the flowering period can last 3 weeks.

Not all calatheas have pleasant flowering - most plants are valued as ornamental foliage.

It is often recommended to simply pinch the flower stalks of deciduous plants so that the bushes do not waste their energy on forming buds. 

Diseases and pests

• The foliage turns pale and loses color when the light conditions are incorrect or there is a lack of nitrogen.
• The edges of the sheet plates become deformed when there is a lack of moisture or heat.
• The edges of the leaves turn yellow and dry out when exposed to dry air.
• The root system and stems of the plant can rot if there is excess moisture.
• Brown, dry tips of leaves may indicate an increased fluoride content in irrigation water or an excess of nutrients in the soil. 
• Leaf blades turn yellow when there is an excess of nutrients in the soil. 

• Plants become smaller when there is a lack of sunlight or nutrients in the soil.
• With prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, the leaf blades may acquire a brown tint.
• If droplets of moisture remain on the leaves during the daytime after spraying and such leaf blades are exposed to the sun, then small brown round spots appear on the plant - burns.
• Leaves lose turgor when there is a lack of moisture in the substrate or if the plant is exposed to a cold draft.
• Leaves curl when there is insufficient environmental humidity or when pests appear. 
• Leaf blades turn yellow when there is an excess of nutrients in the soil.
• Leaf petioles become elongated when there is not enough light.
• Fungal diseases appear when the contents are too humid and cool.  

The most common pests are red spider mites - thin, almost transparent cobwebs, thrips and scale insects appear on plants. 

Soil for calathea 

When growing plants, soil plays a very important role - it not only allows the root system to anchor the flower in the soil, but nourishes it.

Since in its natural habitat calathea grows under the forest canopy, a very loose and porous substrate is suitable for its cultivation.

The maintenance mixture can be made up of peat, leaf humus, fibrous heather and turf soil, with the addition of crushed charcoal.

To improve drainage, you can add a small amount of coarse river sand or perlite and vermiculite to the soil.

The soil should easily allow excess moisture to pass through and have an acidic pH.

To maintain the required soil pH level, finely chopped pine needles are mixed into it.

Ready-made soils for azaleas are suitable for growing calathea. 

Reproduction 

The most common method used is dividing bushes - calathea can be planted in the spring and summer months.

1. Adult plants are divided during transplantation, and each division should have 2 - 3 well-developed roots and good green mass.
2. The separated bushes are placed in separate pots and placed in a warm place (with a temperature of about 22 - 25º C).
3. Divided plants should be placed in a place protected from direct sunlight for several days.
4. The foliage of the cuttings must be regularly sprayed with warm water, ensuring high air humidity.
5. The divisions can even be covered with glass before rooting. 

Vegetative propagation or cuttings are successful - some species are propagated by leaf or stem cuttings.

1. Cuttings are separated from the mother plant using a sharp, sterile instrument.
2. The bases of the cuttings can be sprinkled with rooting powders.
3. Plants are planted in loose soil consisting of a mixture of peat and river sand.
4. To maintain uniform importance, the cuttings are covered on top with a transparent plastic bag, plastic cap or glass.
5. Place the cuttings in a warm place with good lighting, but without access to direct sunlight.

The first sign of successful rooting will be the appearance of new, young leaves. At this time, the shelter can be removed and such plants can be cared for as large specimens. 

Plants with thick rhizomes can be propagated by division.

The rhizome is cut in such a way that a growth bud remains in each part of it, and the cut area is sprinkled with charcoal for disinfection and drying. 

For particularly patient gardeners, for whom it is important to observe the development of the bush from the very beginning, propagation using seeds is suitable.

It is quite difficult to obtain calathea from seeds - their germination leaves much to be desired. The positive side of this experience is that flowers obtained from seeds will be better adapted to living conditions.

1. Sowing of seeds is carried out in the spring in moist and loose soil based on peat.
2. Seedlings are placed in a warm place without direct sunlight at a temperature of 22 - 25 ° C.
3. The first picking into separate cups can be done when the small plants have a pair of true leaves. 

Watering 

Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy during the growing season - spring and summer. Lightly dry the top layer of soil before each subsequent watering.

For watering, use distilled or rain water.  If only tap water is available, then leave it well before watering or add a small amount of citric acid, lemon juice, or an aspirin tablet to acidify it.

Remember that the water should be at room temperature or even a little higher. Watering with cold water will lead to the development of rot in the root system.

In winter, watering is reduced and the top layer of soil is allowed to dry out between waterings.

Excess moisture that appears in the pan after watering must be drained after a few minutes.

It is advisable to water from a watering can with a long and narrow spout, applying moisture around the perimeter of the container in which the plant is located.

Cultivation of calathea - fertilizer 

Potted calathea has a limited feeding area and requires additional nutrients.

Every two weeks during the period of active growth, the plants are fed - in spring and summer they are fed with liquid fertilizers for ornamental foliage plants. In the autumn-winter period, fertilizing is carried out monthly or canceled altogether until spring.

Reacts well to organic feeding.

A nutrient mineral solution is added to the soil only after abundant watering. If fertilizer gets on the root system in a dry substrate, it can cause a burn.

For flowering species, it is worth choosing fertilizers with a high content of nutrients such as phosphorus and potassium.

To feed calathea, you can use ready-made complex fertilizers for azaleas - they will help maintain the acidic pH of the soil and do not contain elements that are unpleasant for the plant, such as calcium. 

Lighting

The plant needs a well-lit place, however, when exposed to direct sunlight or lack of light, the color of the leaves fades.

Calathea can be grown in partial shade, but periodically it should be moved closer to the windowsill.

Windows facing east and west will be considered the most optimal for growing flowers.

Spraying

Maintaining high levels of atmospheric humidity is the main difficulty when growing calathea. In nature, these plants often settle on the banks of lakes and rivers and grow in conditions of high humidity.

Air humidity when growing calathea at home should be approximately 50 - 60 percent, otherwise the plant will begin to suffer.

Use a room humidifier or place the plant on a tray of damp pebbles.

You can spray the foliage only with soft water at room temperature - tap water can leave unsightly white stains on dark leaves. Also, spraying can harm those plants whose leaf surface resembles velvet - moisture will linger on the leaves and can cause rotting.

Getting water on the buds and flowers will also spoil their appearance, so you need to spray species such as Calathea Crocata, Calathea Varshevich and Calathea Lubbers carefully, covering the buds and flowers with your hand. 

Surround the pot with a layer of damp sphagnum moss - water will evaporate from its surface and humidify the air around it.

Keep the calathea away from cold drafts - when ventilating the room in winter, take it to another room. Also, do not place this indoor flower under the air conditioner.

In the warm season, plants will respond positively to water treatments in the form of a shower. The water temperature should be approximately 30 - 35 degrees Celsius. 

Containment temperature

The ideal range in spring and summer is 16 - 21 ° C. If the temperature rises above 23° C, increase watering and air humidity.

Calathea does not like intense heat and in the summer months you should often choose the coolest place in the house for it.

In winter, the plant needs cool maintenance at a temperature of 13 - 16 ° C.  Do not expose the plant to temperatures below 12°C.

Sudden changes in temperature should be avoided - the plant does not like this very much. 

Purpose

The difficult nature and high requirements for living conditions are more than compensated for by the attractive and bright appearance of this flower.

A very valuable decorative foliage plant that can decorate any interior with its presence. 

Interesting facts about calathea

The plant can live indoors for many years with proper care.

Calathea is called a prayer flower, since at night it is able to fold its leaves, as if hands are in prayer.

During the daytime, the leaf blades of this plant also move after the sun.

Interestingly, the leaf blades of some flowers have such coarse veins that people began to use them in weaving baskets. 

Varieties of calathea:

Calathea Crocata

An evergreen compact plant that features both attractive foliage and beautiful blooms. It originates from tropical regions, including Brazil. Forms a rosette of basal leaves on long petioles. The leaf blades are oblong-oval, with a dark green, matte, corrugated surface. The lower surface of the leaves is painted in a contrasting violet-burgundy shade. During the flowering period, calathea throws out peduncles that rise slightly above the leaves. At the top of the flower stalks are bright yellow or orange flowers with large, colorful bracts. The flowering period is long and can last 2 - 3 months. 

Calathea Roseopicta

A magnificent decorative foliage plant with large, rounded leaves with a characteristic pattern. Leaves are basal, on high petioles. There are plants with both green and purple leaves. The leaf blades are corrugated, glossy, with a contrasting burgundy colored underside. In summer, Calathea Medallion may produce flower stalks with small white or lilac flowers, which often go unnoticed against the backdrop of colorful foliage. 

Calathea warscewiczii

This species can be classified as both decorative foliage and flowering plants. Calathea Varshevich has large velvety green leaves with a characteristic pattern. The leaf petioles are long and thin. The underside of the leaf blades has a purple tint. In addition to attractive leaves, the bushes form spectacular cone-shaped inflorescences. The bracts are creamy white but turn yellow over time and then take on a pinkish tint. They are arranged in a spiral around the inflorescences, making them look like a rose flower when viewed from above. The flowering period lasts 3 - 4 weeks. 

Calathea Lancifolia

Widespread in indoor culture are decorative foliage plants with long (up to 70 cm) sword-shaped leaves on short petioles. The leaf blades are glossy, with a wavy edge, elegantly corrugated, light green with oval dark spots. The underside of the leaf blades is purple or burgundy. Flowering is not of particular interest and rarely occurs at home.

This species is often kept indoors, as it has minimal maintenance requirements - it tolerates growing in shade and forgives many mistakes in care. 

Calathea rufibarba

An evergreen ornamental foliage plant with long sword-shaped green leaves. The leaf blades are corrugated, glossy, colored burgundy on the underside, and have slight pubescence. The leaf petioles are long, thin, burgundy, covered with sparse pubescence. The variety is tall - can reach 60 - 90 cm in height. During the flowering period, small yellow flowers with bright bracts are located at the base of the leaves. 

Calathea makoyana

A bright decorative foliage representative of the genus, it belongs to the compact varieties. The leaf blades are oblong-oval, pointed, light green in color with a glossy surface and dark oval spots of different sizes, the length of the leaves reaches 30 cm. The lower surface of the leaves is pinkish or burgundy. In summer the plant often produces small white flowers, but they are not particularly interesting. 

Calathea ornata

In fact, there are currently three plant species classified in this phylum - Calathea sanderiana, Calathea majestica and Calathea regalis. All species are distinguished by attractive large leaves with beautiful geometrically regular patterns on the surface of the leaf blades.

Calathea ornata sanderiana

An evergreen ornamental deciduous plant with large oval leaves of dark green color. The leaf blades are glossy, entire, with thin yellow or pink stripes radiating from the central vein. The underside of each leaf is burgundy or red. The flowers rarely appear at home and are white or purple in color with yellow-orange bracts arranged in a spiral. 

Calathea orbifolia

A plant with large leaves and long petioles. The leaf blades are entire, glossy, painted in alternating light and dark green stripes diverging from the central vein. The lower surface of the leaf blades has a lighter green tint. The plant, even when grown indoors, can exceed 1 m in height, but develops slowly.

The variety is unpretentious and is suitable for growing by beginning gardeners. 

Calathea bachemiana

Ornamental plants with hard, long, sword-shaped leaves on short petioles. The leaf blades are entire, painted in a light silvery-green tint. The central vein is expressed in a darker color and has diverging dark narrow stripes. The lower surface of the leaves can be either green or burgundy. Flowering is not particularly attractive and often goes unnoticed. After flowering, the plant may lose the entire above-ground part - it will die, but then the plant produces new young shoots. 

Calathea Lubbersii

A low evergreen plant with oval, glossy leaves on tall petioles. The leaf blades are colored emerald green and have asymmetrical large greenish or yellow stripes. 

Calathea lietzei

A perennial ornamental foliage plant with long, glossy, lanceolate leaves on thin, often drooping petioles. The leaf blades are entire, dark green, with light green stripes radiating from the central vein. The edges of the sheet plates are corrugated. In warm months, each bush is capable of forming several strong, erect flower stalks, which bear small inflorescences with delicate, pinkish flowers at the tops.

This variety does well at home, as it does not require very high air humidity and can withstand the accumulation of salts in the soil. 

Calathea lancifolia

A spectacular evergreen perennial up to 70 cm high. The main decoration of this plant is its bright, narrowly lanceolate leaves. The leaf blades are light green, with dark, elliptical spots, reaching a length of 45 cm. The lower surface of the leaves is painted in a contrasting burgundy shade. 

Calathea undulata

Attractive small perennials with oblong, elliptical, basal leaves. The leaf blades are entire, slightly corrugated, and colored in an emerald green hue. Along the central vein on the leaves there is a light, wide, green stripe. 

Calathea majestica

Large-leaved, shade-tolerant variety with oblong, oval leaves on thin petioles. The leaf blades are oval, glossy, dark green, with thin and very light, diverging strokes on the surface. The lower surface of the leaves is burgundy. Low peduncles bear small orange flowers at the top. With age, this species can reach an impressive size. 

Calathea louisae

Large variety - plants reach 80 cm in height and have oblong, oval leaves on thin, long petioles. The leaf blades are emerald green with slight light stripes radiating from the central vein, corrugated, glossy, entire. The lower surface of the leaves has a burgundy or deep purple hue. Short flower stalks form in the center of the plant, often remaining hidden by the foliage. The flowers are small and cream-colored. 

Calathea zebrina

Tall, decorative-leaved perennials up to 1 m high. The leaves are narrow, lanceolate, on strong, slightly curved, ribbed petioles. The leaf blades are green, with dark, narrow stripes on the surface. On the underside, the leaves are colored in a lighter or burgundy shade. The length of the leaf blades reaches 60 cm. The flowers are collected in small inflorescences on the tops of short peduncles and often go unnoticed under the foliage. 

Calathea fasciata

Large-leaved ornamental plant up to 65 cm high. The leaves are broadly oval, glossy, on thick ribbed petioles. The leaf blades are entire, slightly corrugated along the edge, green. On the surface of the leaves there are also very dark stripes diverging from the center. The central vein is also dark green. The lower surface of the leaf blades is often painted burgundy.