Bougainvillea

Family. Nyctaginaceae.

Origin, where it grows. Brazil. 

Description.  Bougainvillea is a fast-growing tropical, semi-evergreen vine or shrub from South America with brightly colored bracts surrounding small tubular terminal flowers from early spring to late summer.

Plants have flexible, climbing shoots. Stems are often armed with thorns.

Leaves are oblong-lanceolate or ovate, pubescent, arranged alternately.

Flowering is not of particular interest - modest, yellow buds are not distinguished by brightness or size, the eye is attracted by bright bracts. Large clusters of pink, red, orange or purple bracts are formed mainly in the summer months. In summer, the bushes are almost completely covered with bright inflorescences.

When grown indoors, it does not form fruits.

In modern floriculture, there are variegated or variegated varieties with white specks on the leaf blades.

Height. Up to 4.5 m without pruning. Can be grown as a bonsai - in this case, the height is regulated by pruning.

The bush develops quickly and can grow up to 2-3 m in just one season.

Home care

Reproduction

Propagation of bougainvillea using semi-lignified cuttings is often successful.

1. Using sharp pruning shears, cut stem cuttings about 10 cm long from non-flowering branches.
2. For rooting, use moist and nutritious soil - for example, a mixture of peat and sand, taken in equal quantities.
3. The lower leaves are removed and the upper leaf blades are shortened by a third of their length to reduce moisture loss.
4. It is advisable to use lower heating and growth stimulants when cutting cuttings.
5. The containers with seedlings are covered on top with glass, a transparent plastic bag or a plastic lid to maintain uniform humidity.
6. The seedlings are placed in a warm place (with a temperature of 25 - 28 degrees Celsius), shaded from direct sunlight.
7. Every day the shelter is removed and condensation is removed from it, and the cuttings are ventilated. The ventilation time is gradually increased. 

Root formation takes about 2 months; the successful completion of the process will be indicated by the appearance of the first signs of new growth - young shoots and leaves.

Once new growth appears, the cover can be removed.

Another method of propagation is the formation of air layers.

1. A small pot with moist and nutritious soil is placed next to the container in which the mother plant is located.
2. Select a shoot located as close as possible to the pot and bend it to the surface of the soil and make a shallow cut in it or even just a scratch next to the leaf node.
3. The shoot is pinned to the soil from above so that its tip remains above the soil surface.
4. Air layering is sprinkled with a small layer of soil, which is kept evenly moist throughout the rooting period.
5. After some time, young shoots appear at the leaf nodes, which means that there are already small roots in the substrate.
6. Such cuttings are finally separated from the mother bush 2–3 months after signs of new growth appear.

The first pinching of young shoots is done when they reach a length of 5 cm. 

It is possible to obtain bougainvillea from seeds that are sown at any time of the year at a temperature of 21 - 25 ° C, germination time is approximately 30 days or longer.

1. As a pre-planting preparation, the seeds are pre-soaked for several hours in warm water to which a growth stimulant has been added.
2. Sowing is carried out in a well-moistened and nutritious peat-based substrate.
3. The seeds are covered on top with a layer of earth about 5 mm thick.
4. The seedlings must be kept in greenhouse conditions; to do this, they are covered on top with a transparent plastic cover or glass. 
5. The main difficulty with this method of propagation is maintaining a high air temperature in the room with the seedlings - at least 25 - 26 degrees Celsius. It is also advisable to use bottom heating.
6. The soil is kept evenly moist at all times by thoroughly spraying it with a sprayer.

If sowing is done in autumn or in winter months, then the crops need to be illuminated with phytolamps.

The seedlings are aired daily by lifting the lid of the container.

The first shoots can be seen already 2-3 months after sowing the seeds - at this time the cover can already be completely removed.

From the moment 2-3 true leaves appear, picking is carried out, carefully transferring the bushes to a new habitat - into separate small cups.

Using such a propagation method as grafting, you can get bracts of different colors on one tree.

Grafting is carried out in the spring, with the beginning of sap flow, or in the fall, before its end.

Bougainvillea is grafted by budding and copulation. Thin shoots are grafted by copulation - for this, the thickness of the stems of the rootstock and scion must be the same.

It is interesting that the rootstock must already be awake, and the scion branch must be dormant. To achieve this effect, cuttings for grafting are prepared during autumn pruning and stored in the refrigerator until spring.

For simple copulation, cuttings are cut with a sharp sterile knife at an acute angle, they are aligned so that the layers of bark coincide, and the grafting site is tightly fixed with stretch tape or a simple strip made from a plastic bag.

With improved copulation, in addition to an oblique cut, a small tongue is made on the rootstock and scion, which helps to secure the cuttings more firmly and promotes greater survival.

Growing and care 

In spring and summer, take the pots with bougainvillea outside, placing them in a place that will be protected from direct sunlight and strong gusts of wind. It is also necessary to provide shelter from heavy rain.

Trim the branches in the fall after flowering to maintain a neat, compact crown shape. During autumn pruning, young shoots are shortened by a third of their length so that only 6-8 buds remain on each of them after pruning.

Remember that flowers are located along long lateral branches, so too radical pruning of new shoots will lead to a reduction in the number of buds.

Carry out pruning only with a sharp sterile tool - a knife or pruning shears.

Sanitary pruning - removal of old and diseased branches is carried out in the spring, with the appearance of the first signs of new growth, when it becomes clear which branches have already died. Also cut off those shoots that are directed inward into the bush and thicken the crown.

You should not remove too many branches in one pruning - bougainvillea does not like this. Plants also react negatively to pruning of adult shoots over 3 years old.

When growing in the bonsai style, not only the above-ground, green part is pruned, but also the root system. Among other things, such trees are planted in very wide and small bowls, which will prevent the development of long roots.

If the bush does not bloom, reduce watering for several weeks.

If you want to grow a large vine, then you should provide support for long stems.

Young shoots should be pinched in a timely manner so that side branches appear.

In the autumn months, the flower can shed some or even all of its leaves - there is nothing wrong with this, this is a natural process.

Despite the need for a cool rest period, representatives of this species do not like "cold feet", so when growing on a too cool windowsill in the winter months, it makes sense to put a small sheet of insulation or foam under the pot.

Flowering specimens should not be moved from place to place - they can react to such actions by shedding leaves. The liana does not like sudden changes in living conditions, so accustom it to any innovations gradually, giving it time to acclimatize.

Do not place pots near heating systems in winter and under an air conditioner in the summer months.

When it blooms 

The buds form from spring to autumn, the flowering period of each bush can last 6-7 months. Flowering occurs in waves, several times a year with good care.

The beginning of flowering can be stimulated by creating unfavorable conditions for the bougainvillea. 2-3 weeks before the expected flowering, the bushes are kept on a "dry ration", significantly reducing the frequency of watering and refusing fertilizers.

They begin to water and feed them only when the buds become visible.

Sometimes flowering becomes so abundant that the bright and large bracts completely hide the leaves.

Soil 

Bougainvillea prefers very loose soil with a lot of organic matter, well-drained. The soil should easily pass moisture and air to the roots.

The mixture can consist of such components as light leaf and turf soil, garden soil and peat.

To improve drainage, coarse river sand or perlite and vermiculite are added to the soil.

As additional nutrition, you can add humus or humus, well-rotted horse or cow manure, as well as a small amount of charcoal. Among other things, charcoal will make the substrate light and loose.

The finished substrate should have a slightly acidic or neutral pH reaction in the range from 5.5 to 6.0.

Transplanting

Planting is done in spring in pots with large drainage holes, the most suitable time for transplanting is considered to be the beginning of new growth. The fact is that during this period the plant has already accumulated enough energy for development and will tolerate transplantation easier than at any other time of the year.

Do not touch or transplant flowering specimens.

Plants prefer tight pots and feel great in them year after year, so think twice before increasing the size of the container.

You can judge that the pot is overcrowded by the tips of the roots protruding from the drainage holes at the bottom of the container.

For planting, choose a pot that is only 2-4 cm larger in diameter than the previous one.

Containers for growing bougainvillea should be deep enough, since the plant has a very large root system.

Planting in a large container provokes the development of rot, since excess soil, not used by the roots, accumulates excess moisture.

The root system is very sensitive - try not to damage it when replanting, handle it with care.

1. When transshipping, the plants are transferred to a new container along with the old lump of earth, without destroying it.
2. The flower is simply placed in the center of the pot and sprinkled around the perimeter with fresh soil.
3. Before planting, do not forget to place a good drainage layer of broken bricks, river pebbles or clay shards - fragments of old pots - on the bottom of the pot. 
4. Planting is done at the same depth at which the bush was in the previous container. Deepening the root collar will lead to the absence of flowering and rotting of the roots.
5. After planting, compact the soil around the root system with your fingers to remove any air pockets.
6. Water the transplanted bush thoroughly, completely wetting the earthen ball. If after watering the substrate in the pot has sagged a lot, add fresh soil to the recesses.

Since replanting large tub plants can be difficult due to their size, the top layer of soil 5-7 cm thick for such specimens is simply changed. on fresh soil in the spring, annually.

Seedlings should not be fed for the first 2-3 weeks and should not be exposed to direct sunlight for 7-10 days.

Diseases and pests

• When the soil dries out, leaves may fall.
• Sometimes leaves fall during the winter dormant period - in this case it is quite normal.
• When grown in conditions of insufficient air humidity, buds may drop.
• When exposed to cold drafts, the bush also loses leaves.
• Abundant  leaf fall can be observed after the purchase - when the bougainvillea found itself in new conditions of existence.
• If there is insufficient light, the bracts remain pale - greenish or white; they will acquire a bright color only with additional lighting.
• Leaf blades turn yellow with excessive watering or insufficient drainage.
• Watering with cold water causes unsightly spots to appear on the leaf blades.
• In a cramped pot, the development of the bush is suspended.
• The leaves become smaller due to a lack of nutrients in the soil - just feed the bougainvillea.
• The plant does not bloom when planted in too large tubs - buds will not form until the measles system occupies the entire volume of the pot.
• Buds will not form unless there is a cool and fairly dry dormant period.
• Flowering does not occur even in just rainy and cloudy summers.
• Lack of light directly affects the formation of the crown - plants grown in partial shade become loose, have elongated shoots and refuse to bloom. Over time, such bushes may even die.
• Excessive amounts of nitrogen in fertilizers or substrate will cause the vine to abundantly grow green mass to the detriment of flowering.
• A disease such as chlorosis occurs when there is a deficiency of iron in the substrate or when watering with unsettled tap water.  With chlorosis, leaf blades become light green or even yellow, while the green color of the leaves remains near the veins. Foliar fertilizing with iron preparations will help correct the situation, when fertilizers are applied directly to the leaves using a fine sprayer.

Insect pests may include spider mites, felt or mealybugs and aphids.

Fertilizer 

Bougainvillea is fed every 2 weeks during the period of active growth; in the fall, the frequency of feeding and the content of nutrients in them is gradually reduced, and in the winter months, feeding is completely suspended.

Resumption of fertilization is possible only at the beginning of the next season, with the appearance of new leaves.

For top dressing, use mineral fertilizers for flowering species with a high content of phosphorus and potassium.

Add the nutrient solution only to moist soil, after abundant watering. If too concentrated fertilizer gets on the root system in a dry substrate, it can cause a burn.

Do not feed bushes that show signs of any diseases.

Watering 

Water the soil thoroughly, but allow it to dry out to a depth of 2 inches before watering again.

Standing water at the roots can cause rot - be sure to drain any excess moisture that appears in the tray after watering.

In cool winter months, reduce the frequency of watering to a minimum to prevent the soil from drying out.

If the bush has lost all its leaves, it should not be watered until spring. Resume regular watering at the first sign of new growth, around February.

For watering, use only tap water at room temperature, well settled for at least a day.

Temperature

The average temperature at home should be between 16 and 27°C. The shrub suffers from frost and does not like sudden changes in temperature.

Plants grown outdoors must be brought indoors when night temperatures drop below 10°C.

For abundant and long-lasting flowering, it is worth providing a cool period of rest in the winter in a room with a temperature of about 12 - 14 ° C.

Do not expose this vine to temperatures below 8 ° C in the winter months. Cool wintering promotes rest and accumulation of strength for subsequent flowering in the new season.

Lighting

For abundant flowering, shoots and leaves should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day.

Direct sunlight is allowed only in the evening or morning hours. During too hot daytime hours, the flower should be provided with light shading.

If there is insufficient light, flowering will be less abundant or will not occur at all.

The most suitable for growing flowers are windowsills facing southeast or southwest. When placed on the south side, arrange light shading with a tulle curtain.

In autumn and winter, you can place bougainvillea in the most illuminated place - in this case, it will be able to retain its foliage during the dormant period.

If the bush has shed its leaves, it can be taken out to a dark room, but be sure to return it to the light after the first leaves appear.

Rotate the pot a quarter turn around its axis every week so that the branches do not reach for the light source.

Do not change the location of flowering vines - they will shed their buds.

The flower develops well under artificial lighting, for which you can use phytolamps or regular fluorescent lamps.

With the help of such lighting in autumn and winter, daylight hours should be extended to 12-14 hours per day.

Remember that even such additional lighting does not guarantee the beginning of flowering - most likely, it will be poor or will not occur at all.

Spraying 

Spraying is carried out rather to prevent an invasion of pests, such as spider mites, in the first half of the day, allowing the leaf blades to dry before dusk.

Spray from a fine spray with water at room temperature. When spraying, droplets of moisture should not fall on the buds and bracts.

To increase the humidity, you can use a room humidifier or a tray with wet pebbles, on which you can place the pot. Make sure that the bottom of the pot does not directly touch the surface of the water.

Any vessels with water placed between the pots humidify the air well.

The bush prefers to be in constantly ventilated rooms with a good flow of fresh air. Bougainvillea is very afraid of cold drafts, so when airing in the winter months, it is better to move the pot to another room.

Purpose

A beautiful, decorative, flowering liana that quickly entwines arches or walls.

With the help of proper pruning, you can form a standard tree.

Unfortunately, the plant is afraid of frost and its use in landscape design is possible only in frost-free climates, in those regions where even in the winter months the air temperature does not fall below 5°C.

Note

The long, arching branches of bougainvillea are covered in thorny thorns, so be careful when handling them - they can cause skin irritation. The plant is not poisonous. 

Varieties:

Bougainvillea double

A line of varieties (approximately 18 subspecies) with a large number of bright bracts, colored in red, crimson, pink, salmon, white or greenish shades. Plants of this variety are in bloom at any time of the year, and in the warmer months the bracts almost completely hide the green, heart-shaped leaves. The plants have thin, flexible, spiny shoots, develop quickly and weave around the support provided to them. 

Bougainvillea glabra

A fast growing vine that blooms earlier than most species.  If necessary, it can be grown as a vertical gardening plant or in bush form. Currently, there are dwarf varieties that are convenient to keep at home in pots. The leaves are dark green, heart-shaped, reminiscent of lilac. The bracts are very thin - papery in appearance, purple, red or pink, surrounding small creamy white flowers. In the absence of a cool dormant period, flowers can appear on the plant at any time of the year, and the flowering period can last 1 - 1.5 months.

Bougainvillea Vera Deep Purple

A very attractive appearance with crimson bracts, which lighten and acquire a pink tint as they bloom, the flowers are small, creamy in color. This plant is especially impressive when grown as a bonsai.

Bougainvillea Alexandra

A widely known variety with light green foliage and bright lilac bracts. These fast-growing flowering shrubs reach a height of 3 m. The flowering period is long and lasts from May to October. 

Bougainvillea "Mini Thai"

An evergreen prickly vine with very abundant and long-lasting flowering - crimson and pink bracts can completely hide the plant, and its compact form allows you to grow the shrub in pots indoors without any problems. The flowers are small white or slightly yellowish. There are variegated variations of this variety.