Corydalis
Family. Papaveraceae.
Origin, where it grows. The genus Corydalis includes about 300 species, among which there are both perennial and annual ones.
The bush has an underground brown, oblong-oval tuber with numerous radial roots. The tubers serve to store reserves of nutrients; interestingly, they are hollow inside. In some species, the tubers are renewed annually - a young tuber appears inside the old tuber, the source of nutrition for which are the remains of the old one.
The stems are straight, thin, with complex, repeatedly dissected green leaves.
The leaves are arranged alternately on long petioles and consist of 3-5 segments. The edges of the leaf blades can have both large sharp teeth and a rounded surface.
In the warm season, vertical peduncles are formed on the tops of the shoots. The flowers are slightly drooping, bright, reach a length of 3 cm, collected at the top of the peduncles in large inflorescences - brushes, consisting of 10 - 30 buds. The petals are white, yellow, blue and indigo, purple and red, and also with a pink tint. During the flowering period, many varieties of Corydalis have a pleasant aroma.
After flowering, oblong seed pods with small dark seeds with a shiny surface appear.
Height. Depending on the specific species, height can vary from 10 to 120 - 150 cm.
Planting and care in open ground
Forest species can be grown in a fairly harsh climate - they tolerate frosty winters with good snow cover, welcome semi-shaded plantings and are not demanding in terms of watering. With mountain specimens, everything will be much more complicated.
You should buy only those tubers in flower shops that do not show signs of rot, mold or mechanical damage. They should be firm to the touch.
Since in their natural habitat, corydalis develop in different conditions, the same conditions should be provided when growing in the garden. For high-mountain varieties, choose a site flooded with sunlight, or plant them on an alpine slide. They develop well in fairly poor soil, on rocky soil, on a slope.
Forest inhabitants will need partial shade - direct sun can burn their delicate leaves. Such bushes will appreciate well-drained soil with a large amount of organic matter and nutrients.
A site with shallow groundwater or a lowland flooded by melt water is not suitable for any type of flower. The soil for all types should have a neutral or slightly acidic pH.
When and how to plant
Planting of the corydalis in open ground is carried out in the second half of summer or during September. At this time, you can buy tubers that are dormant. If you follow these planting dates, the tubers have time to adapt to new conditions and build up their root system before frost sets in.
It is not recommended to plant flowering bushes in another place - plants spend too much energy on forming buds, and transplanting will only add stress to them.
If the tubers need to be stored for some time before planting, this should be done in such a way that they do not lose precious moisture. Place the tubers in a cool and fairly humid place, sprinkle them with damp river sand or cover with well-moistened sphagnum moss.
Prepare the area according to needs - loosen the soil and remove weeds. For forest beauties, leaf and turf humus are mixed into the soil. For mountain plants, crushed stone and coarse river sand are added to the substrate - these materials will help remove excess moisture from the roots and prevent rapid compaction of the soil.
Planting holes are prepared depending on the planting pattern and the final size of the bushes - the distance between the holes will be approximately equal to the height of the shoots. As a rule, the larger the tubers, the deeper they should be planted, and this depth will vary from 5 to 15 cm. Also, the planting depth in dense clay soil can be reduced, and in light soils, the tubers can be placed a little deeper.
Before planting, you should decide where the top and bottom of the tubers are. Sprouts usually appear from the flat part, and the roots grow from the convex part. If you confuse the top and bottom, then usually nothing terrible happens - the shoots will just appear a little later.
If the tubers show the first signs of growth, then they should be handled with extreme caution - the sprouts easily break off, and the tuber again falls into a long period of dormancy.
The tubers are sprinkled with earth, the planted area is abundantly watered with water, and mulched with mown grass or straw. Mulch will not allow moisture to evaporate too quickly and will restrain the development of weeds. Mountain flowers do not need mulch.
Care
In order to fully enjoy the flowering of the corydalis in the spring, it is worth working hard. The flower will need weeding and loosening of the soil, which is carried out immediately after watering.
During the period of leaf formation and budding, the bush is unlikely to need a lot of water - the soil is usually saturated with melted moisture. With the onset of warmth, the soil will dry out more and more and timely watering should be provided. The frequency of watering for different species should be different: mountain varieties require less moisture and tolerate minor droughts better than forest varieties. The soil for forest flowers should be kept moist almost all the time.
For abundant flowering, timely fertilization will be required. Corydalis responds best to organic matter - humus and well-rotted cow or horse manure, but do not neglect phosphorus-potassium mineral mixtures. These fertilizers contribute to the formation of a large number of buds in the spring.
The flower has an enviable frost resistance and does not need additional shelter for the winter. Only in regions with little snow and severe frosts can the root system be hilled and covered with mulch in the autumn months, before frost sets in. The exception to this rule is the Chinese Corydalis - this species is accustomed to mild winters and should be planted in a pot and sent to a cool cellar for the rest period. The tubers can also be taken out of the ground and stored in damp river sand.
Haircut
After the seed pods have formed and the planting material has matured, the entire above-ground part begins to wither and eventually dies off completely. Dry leaves can be cut off, but there is no need to rush with the cutting - the leaf blades feed the underground tuber until the last moment and help it stock up on nutrients for development in the next season.
Pruning is carried out with a sharpened and sterilized tool - a garden knife or pruning shears.
When it blooms
The onset of flowering can occur from March to May inclusive. Some varieties bloom during the summer months. The exact timing of flowering varies depending on the species, but the duration of flowering often remains the same at around 3 weeks.
Mountain plants usually bloom first, and only then forest plants begin to bloom. Far Eastern corydalis will be among the last to decorate the garden with buds - in late spring - early summer.
Early flowering will also be promoted by planting in a sunny area where the snow melts earlier; however, such specimens will have a shorter flowering period.
Transplant
Transplantation to a new location is carried out after flowering, but before the above-ground part dies off, otherwise it will be difficult to find the corydalis in the garden. Flowering plants should not be transplanted; such specimens are transplanted only in case of extreme necessity. Transplantation consists of transferring the bush to a new location together with the old lump of earth, trying to disturb the root system as little as possible.
If the above-ground part separates from the tuber during transplantation, do not worry too much. Such tubers are planted in the ground and they simply go into a dormant period, stopping their development until the next spring.
Useful properties
Corydalis is used in folk medicine to treat many diseases, but it should be used with caution - the plant is poisonous. Large doses of plant materials can cause severe poisoning; also, herbal preparations should not be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Corydalis is believed to relieve nervous tension, promote muscle relaxation and help lower blood pressure.
The plants also have antimicrobial properties, which is why they are used to treat purulent wounds and trophic ulcers. Decoctions are used as a hemostatic and analgesic.
All parts are used for medicinal purposes - from tubers to flowers, and they are collected at different times. The green mass is cut immediately after flowering - at this time it contains the highest concentration of nutrients. Tubers and rhizomes are dug out of the ground in the autumn months - during this period, the leaves have time to transfer all their reserves of nutrients to them.
Reproduction
There are 3 ways to propagate - separating small daughter tubers, dividing the rhizome of an adult plant and sowing seeds. The choice of propagation method will depend on the specific variety.
Growing from seeds
The seed method is probably the most common method of propagation. Seeds sprout quite quickly and have a good germination rate. In their natural habitat, some species produce abundant self-seeding.
For propagation by seeds, you can use planting material collected from garden plants. When using such seeds, the flowers are protected only by species, not varietal characteristics, so the appearance of the resulting bushes can be strikingly different from the mother ones.
Full ripening of seeds occurs in June, but you should not wait for it. From fully ripened and opened seed pods, seeds fall on the surface of the soil, from where they are quickly carried away by ants. It is worth taking care to collect planting material at a time when they have already acquired a black color, but before the seed pods open. To prevent rashes, you can wrap the pods in gauze in advance.
The planting material collected with your own hands can be sprinkled with wet sand and left to ripen at room temperature, making sure that the sand is constantly moist.
At a high level, the germination of seeds is maintained only until they begin to dry out, so sowing is carried out immediately after collection. After a week, the seeds will already lose their life-giving moisture. Wet sphagnum moss will help prolong the viability of seeds, but even in such conditions, after a month, germination will be zero.
Sowing is carried out in the summer months, using small flower greenhouses with transparent lids or individual cups. There should be drainage holes at the bottom of the containers, and the first step is to lay a moisture-wicking layer in the form of expanded clay or broken brick.
Fill the cups with soil consisting of turf and leaf humus, peat with a large amount of river sand in the composition. The seeds are sown to a depth of about 0.5 - 1 cm, covered with soil and thoroughly moistened the soil with a spray bottle.
The top of the crops is covered with glass or transparent plastic to maintain high air humidity. The soil is kept evenly moist at all times, but not waterlogged.
Planting seedlings in open ground is carried out in the spring, when the snow melts and the last night frosts have gone. The first buds will be decorated with corydalis grown from seeds in the 3rd - 4th year of life and often there will be only 1 - 2 flowers on each bush. In 4-5 years, flowering will become more abundant, and the first division of tubers will occur when the plants are 5-6 years old.
Division of rhizomes
Corydalis kashmirica and corydalis bush can be propagated by dividing the rhizomes. Bushes aged 3-5 years are divided during transplantation - they are dug out of the ground, the root system is shaken off from the remains of the soil and cut into parts.
Use a sharp sterile knife for division. As a result of division, each part should receive its own root system with a renewal bud.
Do not worry if the cuttings do not have tubers - some time after planting, these plants will be able to form new tubers.
The wound surface formed during division is treated with charcoal powder or wood ash for drying and disinfection.
The divisions are planted in new areas and watered. Such specimens should be placed in partial shade - direct sunlight immediately after division can cause additional stress.
Separation of daughter tubers
This method of propagation is the simplest and is available for almost all species. The fact is that under the soil surface, small daughter tubers are formed annually in the corydalis and in the autumn months, when transplanting, they are separated and planted.
Sometimes it is quite difficult to find corydalis plantings because its leaves die off in the autumn. To be sure to dig up the tubers, it is enough to mark the place where the flower was, or transplant and divide the tubers before the leaves die off.
Diseases and pests
Corydalis has enviable resistance to various diseases and harmful insects.
In lowlands and areas with stagnant moisture, the roots of the plant may rot.
When air humidity is too high and there is insufficient air movement, fungal diseases appear.
Viral diseases manifest themselves as uncharacteristic spots on leaves and deformed buds. Specimens affected by the virus cannot be treated - they are destroyed.
When grown in open ground, the root system can be eaten by moles and small rodents.
Of the harmful insects, tubers can be affected by wireworms.
Use in landscape design
Corydalis has been used by flower growers quite recently, since the 19th century. It is interesting that each corydalis seed, like most spring primrose seeds, has a small fleshy sprout. This sprout is used for reproduction - ants like to eat it. Finding ripe seeds scattered on the ground, insects can carry them over significant distances.
When grown in the garden, the bush can become a bright accent in any flower garden, flowerbed or alpine slide. Other primroses - snowdrops, crocuses, tulips - can keep this beauty company. The plant forms its buds very early.
Forcing corydalis
For forcing - getting a flowering bush for any date or holiday at home, you should use only the best planting material. Tubers should be dense and healthy. 2.5 months before the desired flowering, the tubers are planted in pots in a moist and nutritious substrate.
Place the pots in a cool, dark place, watering the soil occasionally to keep it slightly moist. The room temperature should be around 4-6 degrees. In this mode, the tubers are stored for 1.5-2 months.
2 - 3 weeks before the expected flowering, take the pots out into the light, place them in a warm place at room temperature and gradually begin to water them. With the appearance of the first shoots it is worth feeding.
As soon as the buds appear, it is advisable to lower the air temperature to 16 - 18 degrees - a higher temperature will contribute to the rapid wilting of the flowers. Plants are generously and regularly watered until flowering, maintaining the soil evenly moist and periodically fertilized.
Varieties and types:
All varieties and species can be divided according to their habitat into mountain, forest and desert. According to the type of root formation - tuberous and rhizomatous.
Forest varieties include dense corydalis, hollow, Kashmir, Marshall, yellow, Ledebur, noble, bract, deceptive, spaced, Turchaninova, Bush.
Mountain corydalis - Alpine, Chinese.
Corydalis solida
A widespread variety in garden culture, on the basis of which many modern varieties and hybrids have been bred. It is a compact plant up to 15 - 30 cm high with dissected leaves with rounded segments. The inflorescences are large - consist of about 20 buds. Comes from Central and Western Asia, Europe.
Corydalis solida Beth Evans
Flowering perennials up to 25 cm high with delicate, light green leaves and large pink buds. The center of the flowers is often a lighter shade of pink.
Corydalis 'George Baker'
Small bushes grow up to 15 - 30 cm and during the flowering period they throw out flower stalks with large inflorescences of bright and large flowers of a red or pink hue.
Corydalis lutea
A fairly large corydalis, widespread in European countries. It is a decorative perennial with emerald green leaves and small inflorescences on the tops of the shoots. The buds are painted in a bright yellow shade. The flowering period can occur any time from May to September. The height of the plants reaches 30 - 45 cm.
Corydalis cava
Most often used in folk medicine. Plants are native to Turkey, Iran and the Caucasus. Early flowering perennials up to only 15 cm in height. Plants of this species require cool stratification when propagated by seed. When grown in open ground, they may be prone to rot.
Corydalis marschalliana Pers
A subspecies of Corydalis holly, characterized by cream or pale yellow flowers. In its natural habitat it grows in the Balkans, Crimea, the Caucasus and northwestern Iran.
Corydalis ambigua
Early flowering plants native to eastern Asia. Plants of this species are believed to have anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties. The bulbs of this flower are consumed by the population of the Southern Kuril Islands and Sakhalin.
Corydalis nobilis
The second name is rotten root. Plants native to Siberia are also found in Kazakhstan. The bushes reach a height of about 50 cm and are characterized by very compact, dense inflorescences, consisting of several dozen yellow-white buds.
Corydalis Flexuosa
Perennial herbaceous plants native to the mountainous regions of China. The bushes reach 23 cm in height and during the flowering period they decorate themselves with tall peduncles with violet-blue flowers. The most common variety obtained from this variety is “Blue Panda”. Plants of this variety have lush inflorescences consisting of several dozen graceful, thin-at-the-base flowers of an azure blue hue.
Corydalis intermedia
Spring-flowering perennials up to 10 - 20 cm high come from Finland, where they grow in forests. One of the smallest varieties, with delicate lilac or pink buds.
Corydalis caucasica
Early flowering perennials with dissected leaves consisting of segments with rounded edges. During the flowering period, the bushes decorate themselves with lilac, pinkish or white flowers.
Corydalis bracteata
Compact primroses up to 20 cm high with bright green lacy foliage and large buds painted in all shades of yellow.
Corydalis buschii
A Siberian variety, the bushes of which decorate themselves with flowers already in May. The foliage is openwork, light green, contrasts beautifully with large lilac or pinkish flowers collected in tall clusters.
Corydalis ophiocarpa
The main difference from other species is that the plants remain evergreen throughout the year. The bushes consist of spreading, abundantly branching shoots at the base with delicate, lacy leaves. During the flowering period, it forms long inflorescences with yellowish flowers.